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Old 01-09-2009, 06:21 PM   #1
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Installing shocks is normally not difficult. A good 1/2" socket set and combination wrenches are about all you need. But, Workhorse uses 3/4" fine thread grade 8 bolts and grade 8 crush nuts. This almost requires a Heavy Duty Air Ratchet. But, there are times you need something more! So, you best have a Plan B. Today I ran into one that would not come off using an air ratchet.

My Plan B was to heat the nut with a "gas hammer" (acetylene torch). I heated it to a cheery red state and hit it with the impact wrench. No joy. I finally had to change over to the cutting torch and cut the spacer and bolt. The replacement bolt, nut and lock washer cost $9.37

OBTW - I have decided that I am getting to old to have that much fun anymore. So, I suspect I have done my last heavy duty installs.


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Old 01-09-2009, 06:21 PM   #2
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Installing shocks is normally not difficult. A good 1/2" socket set and combination wrenches are about all you need. But, Workhorse uses 3/4" fine thread grade 8 bolts and grade 8 crush nuts. This almost requires a Heavy Duty Air Ratchet. But, there are times you need something more! So, you best have a Plan B. Today I ran into one that would not come off using an air ratchet.

My Plan B was to heat the nut with a "gas hammer" (acetylene torch). I heated it to a cheery red state and hit it with the impact wrench. No joy. I finally had to change over to the cutting torch and cut the spacer and bolt. The replacement bolt, nut and lock washer cost $9.37

OBTW - I have decided that I am getting to old to have that much fun anymore. So, I suspect I have done my last heavy duty installs.


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Old 01-09-2009, 11:51 PM   #3
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I could not get one of mine off with a 500 lb impact wrench. Had to use my cut off grinder. Just a fun day under the fender. Marv
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Old 01-10-2009, 12:58 AM   #4
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Thanks for the heads up Oemy. I was going to attempt my front shocks this spring. I know they have been changed from the original already. I have the service records for the moho from the original owners. I wonder if they would be just as hard to get off since they have been changed once already??????
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Old 01-10-2009, 02:17 AM   #5
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I helped a buddy change his shocks out in his driveway and he had a few stubborn ones also. We started on a saturday, decided they were too stubborn. So for the rest of the day we drank beer and squirted WD-40 on them. Sunday we went back under with a 3ft cheater bar on the wrench and we showed 'em who was boss. I remeber cracking a socket because they were so tight but we finished the job and drank more beer. Me too, I'm getting too old for that stuff (the install, not the beer drinking)
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Old 01-10-2009, 03:39 AM   #6
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I hear ya OMEY, I have ruined two 1/2 inch breaker bars trying to remove the rear mount bolts on my 04 W 2o. I just bought a "Torque Multiplier" from Harbor Freight to try. Never used one before, so dont know what to expect, but I'm running out of breaker bars . I guess the "Hot Wrench" is a last resort. I'll let ya know how the TM works on it...rgr...
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Old 01-10-2009, 03:43 AM   #7
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My impact wrench is 650 psi max at 100 psi pressure. Also, it seems that the troublesome shocks have been R&R'd at least once.

Grade 8 bolts are a real pain to cut with a cut off wheel, using a saws all or some other tool.
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Old 01-10-2009, 04:56 AM   #8
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A 3ft, 1" ID, piece of pipe, a 3/4" breaker bar, including a set of 3/4" deep wall sockets will do the trick. I use this combo to remove wheels-- (a 1-5/16" socket is required for the lug nuts). Don't like to use it at all--- but I have used it several times in the past. I bought all the hardware from Northern Tool (except the pipe). I also needed two 3/4" x 4" extensions to get on to the rear wheel lug nuts Because of the deep recess of the lug nuts. This gives me all the torque I need to loosen or tighten these big bolts or nuts. I use the 1/2" air impact wrench (when home), after I loosen the nuts/bolts.
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Old 01-10-2009, 05:51 AM   #9
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Max,

Yep, a 3' or 4' cheater bar on a 3/4" socket and breaker bar probably will do the job. BUT, getting it under the coach, then getting something to hold the bolt portion and finally applying the pressure needed gets to be a real task.
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Old 01-10-2009, 08:20 AM   #10
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Sounds like you guys have had way too much fun. At what milage should I expect to change mine out? I know I'll be way too old to change them by then!
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Old 01-10-2009, 08:26 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Max Hubrich:
A 3ft, 1" ID, piece of pipe, a 3/4" breaker bar, including a set of 3/4" deep wall sockets will do the trick. I use this combo to remove wheels-- (a 1-5/16" socket is required for the lug nuts). SNIP </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

A 1 5/16 socket fits the lug nuts a little sloppy. I believe it's actually a 33 mm socket.

I use a 3 to 1 torque multiplier ($250) with a 1" output drive and buying that 1" drive 33mm socket ($28 dollars), the 8" long 1" drive extension ($78) and the 250 foot pound torque wrench all got a little pricey.
I can torque those suckers to 475 foot pounds now though.
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:10 AM   #12
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I used a cheap 1/2" impact wrench (came with a Lowe's air compressor) and a lot of WD40 and a lot of patience. I would hit it with the WD40, impact for a while, more WD40 and walk away. The next day, it came apart just fine.

Since then, I have purchased a 3/4' manual drive socket set from Harbor Freight for $40. That and a piece of pipe can accomplish a lot.
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:03 AM   #13
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I added a photo of the shock bolt I had to cut off. You will notice that one of the spacers is missing. That puppy went on the first burst of O2 from the cutting torch.

Other than the obvious... what else is wrong with the picture?
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:52 AM   #14
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Is it an optical delusion or is the sleeve that goes thru the rubber gromment BENT?

Something I really love about these forums is you get to see that you're not the only one who has the occasional job turn brown and smelly. Misery DOES love company

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