DIY Track bar

[jbrnigan]

Thanks to Dale - oemtech - for the info and advice on crafting this track bar.
Used 3/8 steel plate - laser cut from pattern supplied by Dale and custom fitted to pumpkin housing using four mounting holes. Bar sourced from Motorsports of Kansas City - 60 bucks - steel plate - free, labor - you can't afford me - priceless.

I am very pleased with the improvement in the handling of my coach. A great suspension add on.

[jbrnigan]

Thanks to Dale - oemtech - for the info and advice on crafting this track bar.
Used 3/8 steel plate - laser cut from pattern supplied by Dale and custom fitted to pumpkin housing using four mounting holes. Bar sourced from Motorsports of Kansas City - 60 bucks - steel plate - free, labor - you can't afford me - priceless.

I am very pleased with the improvement in the handling of my coach. A great suspension add on.

[Jestme13]

Very nice looking job. What would you charge a brother for a set of them nice brackets???
I need to ck with ole Oemy if they will work on my P chassis.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jestme13:
I need to ck with ole Oemy if they will work on my P chassis. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Steve, The P Series track bar is different.

[Brazels RV Performance]

SteveO,
I got one for you,maybe we can wager one on the Dallas/Philly game

[oemtech]

Looks like KC MS upped the prices on the bar/heim joints.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Brazels RV Performance:
I got one for you,maybe we can wager one on the Dallas/Philly game </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Now this is something I gotta see.

Like the job you did on the track bar.

[jbrnigan]

Dale - 60 bucks included the UPS charges - Still a bargan track bar when campared to.....
thanks again.

[FLYTYER]

Using Dale's patterns he kindly gave to me in Tenn, I had the plates cut and I have all of the hardware. I am using a loaner bar given to me by good friend in stock car racin' to help figure the exact length and position. When I get it right I'll buy a new bar. Hopefully if the rain stops, I'll make some good progress.

[oemtech]

Mount your brackets, measure from bolt hole to bolt hole, subtract 3 inches and this is the length of the bar.... You can order the bar by the inch. Mine was 17" if memory serves me right.

[Jestme13]

Bet on the EAGLES, you gotta be outa your mind, that's the real kiss of death. I see T.O. is all ready runnin his face and trash talkin in Dallas. A deal sounds good to me though

Thanks DriVer, now that you mention it, yes the P rear is different.
I was looking at your pics of the front sway bar extensions from Brazels, I like system and see how I could benifit from them.

[FLYTYER]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FLYTYER:
Using Dale's patterns he kindly gave to me in Tenn, I had the plates cut and I have all of the hardware. I am using a loaner bar given to me by good friend in stock car racin' to help figure the exact length and position. When I get it right I'll buy a new bar. Hopefully if the rain stops, I'll make some good progress. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

As it turns out, while Dale's patterns were great, my rear end housing is different and Dale's pattern for it did not quite make it. It seems the bolt circle and center to center distance is larger in both cases. I used his pattern, but the holes had to be drilled a little farther apart and only 2 bolts were available.

I will be posting photos in a few days after I get everything back on after sand blasting and painting.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FLYTYER:
I used his pattern, but the holes had to be drilled a little farther apart and only 2 bolts were available. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'm reading that you can only use 2 bolt holes to secure the riser plate is that correct?

[FLYTYER]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FLYTYER:
I used his pattern, but the holes had to be drilled a little farther apart and only 2 bolts were available. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'm reading that you can only use 2 bolt holes to secure the riser plate is that correct? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes that is correct. The rear diffrential housing is larger in diameter from what Dale's photos and dimensions show. The top center of the housing also has a "block" or step which prevents use of Dale's design without some sort of spacer. As I studied the situation I decided the use of a spacer may apply some torque on the bolts not planned on and maybe weaken the attachment. So I went with the 2 bolt attachment.

The pan hard bar is 15 inches and is an indication that the rear end housing is larger than Dale's where he had to use a 17 inch bar.

I do not believe this is a bad thing, but rather it means we should be careful and be aware that all WCC chassis components may not be the same in all cases.

I can post the rear end ID plate info if needed as there is one riveted on its side.