Driver, getting back to the moved a/c condenssor

[JimAerbus,W22,2003]

Been gone a couple of weeks so never got to ask you why moving the a/c condensor didn't help. Also I wonder what the cfm of those two 12 inch fans on it are. Maybe more cfm fan more cooling. Also I already have every concievable hole plugged with high grade rubber and in a couple places non expanding foam. Thanx, Jim C.

[John350]

Did you notice any reduction in the engine fan operation with all the holes pluged up. I did not on mine. John

[max49]

I was wondering what holes are you plugging up?

[JimAerbus,W22,2003]

The really big problem with these things is that most of the sir just "Bounches" off, and goes around the radiator. There is so much area for the air to go around that only a small portion is actually forced to go through the radiator. I already have the bottom vent sealed so that the air is forced up into the rad., but there is so much room on the sides for it to go around that I don't think that it does a whole of good, although every little bit helps. There is much other stuff in the way that I can't see any practical way of blocking off the sides so that the air would have to go through the rad. I live in southern Arizona so this might not be a problem to many of you, but here it is. I think by now everybody has figured out that the factory guage is worthless. Real running temps are closer to 210/215 (as they should be) for cylinder heating and a whole lot of other factors. Flat land I run about 210, but once I get on a hill the factory guage is still sitting there and I'm often 225 or so. Which is scary as hell. Jim.

[dieselclacker]

Jim, are you striving for cooler engine operation, or cooler dash air output? Or maybe both? The electric fans are for better AC performance. That big horsepower robbing noisy thing that is turned by the serpentine belt has to be working properly to obtain anything approaching decent operating temps in the south western states. You can't depend on ramming enough cooling air through the radiator to do the job, the fan has to pull it through on these things.

Dieselclacker

[Max Hubrich]

JimAerbus,W22,2003,

Jim, Buy a Scan Gauge II-- Oemy sells them and you will get a real time digital readout of coolant temperature as well as Transmission fluid temperature. Also many other valuable readings such as: free air intake temperature as read at the MAS (mass airflow sensor), Throttle position to be used for max fuel MPG usage, and lots more.

Unfortunely you can only display 4 items at a time but you can scan for others-- RPM, MPH ,etc.

I set mine on:

1- TPS -Throttle position

2- Voltage

3- Tranny temp

4- Coolant temp

You can also buy from Scan Guage direct, but Oemy can send you one with the Tranny temp, and I believe torque (maybe horse power) your producing. It just plugs into your on board computer connection. He needs your VIN number. It's a great tool.

My motor home has rubber sheeting installed at the sides and above the radiator to force air through the radiator and the two computer "boxes" sitting on top of the radiator. I have had to replace most of it-- I used conveyor belt material a friend had. It's much thicker than the original junk that was on my rig. Lowes sells some rubber material, others have said , that will do the trick just as well. You'll need a drill, a drill bit for your rivet size, rivets and backing washers, and a pop rivet installer-- then have at it.

Good luck,

[JimAerbus,W22,2003]

I gotta Love it!!! An Answer to everything except my question

[max49]

Jim , I have no idea why moving the a/c condenser would'nt help but , or even where or why you want to move it but, I put a manual switch in to turn my electric fans on any time I want. They still come on automaticly as they are programmed. Don't know if it helps, but as you said, every little bit helps. I also don't know how many CFMs they put out.
I also opened up the rubber block . WH put on so I get more air over the engine and have'nt biurnt a plug wire since.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally posted by JimAerbus,W22,2003: ... Flat land I run about 210, but once I get on a hill the factory gauge is still sitting there and I'm often 225 or so. Which is scary as hell ....

Jim, Your concern is noted however I believe that you are hyper concerned about a 225° temperature when climbing a grade. That is totally normal and you are not going to see any of our motorhomes climb grades with any less of a temperature than what you are seeing.

I run a XGauge ScanGauge II and I watch my temps. Yes they go up, they are supposed to. An 8.1 is an internal combustion engine and when you put it under a load and increase the RPM you are going to generate more watts and this presents as heat. Running an engine such as this up a grade at low temperatures may not allow the engine to operate within its normal operational range and that could be detrimental. You're straight and level temps are within normal limits and so are your displayed temps.

I have been reading your posts and so help I am looking for a clear question but if your question is only about improving air flow through the cool pack by moving the condenser then I would answer "Yes" you would be able to flow more air through the cool pack by reducing cooler layering however where would you suggest that the condenser be installed so that it too can shed heat? Without that happening your A/C won't perform as it should. Recent model Workhorse Chassis have eliminated some of the layering and they also removed the auxiliary cooling fans by locating the coolers internal to the radiator itself. The UFO is one such vehicle which houses oil, transmission and coolant radiators all in the same device.

Unless you have an overheat condition and believe me the gauge you deem as worthless will indeed tell you when an over heat condition exists. I have seen the gauge incremented upward at 235 degrees. The gauge displays normal operational ranges. In routine operation, the gauge displays the temperature of the engine at approximately the 3 o'clock position. Any location on that gauge near the 3 o'clock position is normal. Regardless if it is high or low normal it remains normal.

I believe that you have taken adequate measures to block off air flow around the radiator and I have to commend you for that effort. You are not going to be able to occlude every opening and it was never intended that every opening be blocked or your OEM would have made efforts to do so.

One device that you need to be aware of is your FCA or fan clutch assembly. If that device does not clutch up which might be likely given the age of your rig then it could present problems in climbing grades. If the FCA does not clutch up properly the main cooling fan will not spin as it should. The main fan should come on and go off randomly as you are driving. When the auxiliary fans kick in at times they don't make a lot of noise. What makes the loudest sound is th main cooling fan. If you are not hearing a loud fan blast roar then your FCA is defective and you need to have it replaced. I have recently had my FCA replaced because it did fail after some 60,000+ miles last spring. Currently clocking 75,000 miles and all is well.