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driver side wheel (BRAKES)
03-01-2010, 01:55 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9
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Good Afternoon to all
I am new to this site and look forward to any information you may share.
My wfe and I purchased a 2003 pace arrow (fleetwood) work horse 22.
This past weekend we took our first trip from metro atlanta to topsail rv park in Santa Rosa FL (Great Park) 612 miles RT. My Question is: I have a fluid leak on the left wheel (inside) does not appear to be brake fluid. The leak is not from a line sorce it appears to be internal. What do you think is the sourse of the leak?
I am aware the brake recall and this side was repaired 1 month ago.
Thank you for any comments
Ken and Lynn
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03-01-2010, 02:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Way down yonder, below New Orleans
Posts: 3,958
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the front wheel bearings are oil bath lubricated. Look for a leaking wheel seal. The outer wheel seal also contains a sight glass for you to check the oil level. If low, ADD to the bottom of the hole in the center with rubber pop out plug. Get leak fixed promptly. Good luck. ED
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Itasca SC 2010 37F on W-24 WB248" stock + plug wires vent kit added.
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03-01-2010, 02:55 PM
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#3
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyd37
I am aware the brake recall and this side was repaired 1 month ago. Thank you for any comments
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Ken and Lynn, I don't know who did your work on your brakes however if they pulled the rotors to cut them they would have replaced the inner wheel bearing seal or at least they should have. The problem here is that they will often go to the store and buy a cross matched seal which in my case leaked until the seal was replaced by a Workhorse seal. Not at all sure what's different and why the cross over didn't work but both of my seals leaked and had to be replaced.
Now I would call the service person that did your brakes and tell them that the inner front wheel seal is leaking fluid! One other manner in which these things leak is from the front (on the surface of the wheel-hubcap) and that is typically found to have been an overfill situation.
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03-01-2010, 04:14 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9
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Thank you both for your response
Driver-It looks like it would be a inner seal-it leaks from the inside.
thanks
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03-01-2010, 04:15 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgray
the front wheel bearings are oil bath lubricated. Look for a leaking wheel seal. The outer wheel seal also contains a sight glass for you to check the oil level. If low, ADD to the bottom of the hole in the center with rubber pop out plug. Get leak fixed promptly. Good luck. ED
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Ed if I am not mistaken, my front hub sight glass has a fill line between the center hole and the outside ring about 3/8 inch outside the center plugged fill hole. It's dark out and I could be mistaken though so a correction may be necessary.
George
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Kathy & George Zimm & 2 Shelties, Merlin & Lancelot
Mickleton, NJ
2006 Coachman Epic & 2011 Chevy Equinox Toad
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03-01-2010, 04:41 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Way down yonder, below New Orleans
Posts: 3,958
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George: Yes, you are correct, I think. Actually, there "may" be two rings printed or etched on the plexi-glas portion. One may be min. and the other max.
Regardless, the BOTTOM of the center plug hole is the absolute max fluid level. One should not use the screw-in cap found on the outer portion as the place to add fluid, because this can allow you to have fluid above the plug bottom. The resulting MESS all over the wheel and tire and even the coach wheel well isn't pretty....ask me how I know  ED
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Itasca SC 2010 37F on W-24 WB248" stock + plug wires vent kit added.
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03-01-2010, 04:50 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgray
George: Yes, you are correct, I think. Actually, there "may" be two rings printed or etched on the plexi-glas portion. One may be min. and the other max.
Regardless, the BOTTOM of the center plug hole is the absolute max fluid level. One should not use the screw-in cap found on the outer portion as the place to add fluid, because this can allow you to have fluid above the plug bottom. The resulting MESS all over the wheel and tire and even the coach wheel well isn't pretty....ask me how I know  ED
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Thanks Ed, now I don't have to use the " I'm old and forget a lot"
George
__________________
Kathy & George Zimm & 2 Shelties, Merlin & Lancelot
Mickleton, NJ
2006 Coachman Epic & 2011 Chevy Equinox Toad
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03-02-2010, 04:14 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: KAPOLEI, HAWAII AND VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON
Posts: 1,846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyd37
Good Afternoon to all
I am new to this site and look forward to any information you may share.
My wfe and I purchased a 2003 pace arrow (fleetwood) work horse 22.
This past weekend we took our first trip from metro atlanta to topsail rv park in Santa Rosa FL (Great Park) 612 miles RT. My Question is: I have a fluid leak on the left wheel (inside) does not appear to be brake fluid. The leak is not from a line sorce it appears to be internal. What do you think is the sourse of the leak?
I am aware the brake recall and this side was repaired 1 month ago.
Thank you for any comments
Ken and Lynn
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my w20 does not have a sight glass, just a pop-out rubber plug. it takes sae 90w, gl-5 gear oil (p94 workhorse chassis manual). synthetic is best. if you can feel oil with a bent paper clip or whatever near the top of the pop-out plug, there is enough oil in the bearing cavity.
i bought a quart of amsoil synthetic 90w in a plastic bottle with a little spout on the top that will fit in the pop-out plug hole.
as others have said, do not overfill until it runs out or let it run out until it quits. when the wheel heats up, the oil inside will expand some. once you ''stick it'' with a bent paper clip, you can tell if there is enough oil in the reservoir.
there is a picture of the wheel bearing hubs on page 24 of the chassis manual. i wish i could send it to you. it looks to me that the minimum oil level would be at about 3/4" in the reservoir.
i am trying to attach this manual a i cannot figure out how to attach just page 24.  it says that there is a ''security token missing''.
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks
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03-02-2010, 04:25 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: KAPOLEI, HAWAII AND VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON
Posts: 1,846
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my w20 does not have a sight glass, just a pop-out rubber plug. it takes sae 90w, gl-5 gear oil (p94 workhorse chassis manual). synthetic is best. if you can feel oil with a bent paper clip or whatever near the top of the pop-out plug, there is enough oil in the bearing cavity.
i bought a quart of amsoil synthetic 90w in a plastic bottle with a little spout on the top that will fit in the pop-out plug hole.
as others have said, do not overfill until it runs out or let it run out until it quits. when the wheel heats up, the oil inside will expand some. once you ''stick it'' with a bent paper clip, you can tell if there is enough oil in the reservoir.
there is a picture of the wheel bearing hubs on page 24 of the chassis manual. i am trying to send it to you. it looks to me that the minimum oil level would be at about 3/4" of fluid in the reservoir. 
i have the picture on my desktop from my workhorse manual cd in pdf, but my computer or this website will not let me attach it here or copy or paste it either. this is truly a pita.
if someone else has an idea how to either send a copy of this manual, i got an error security message, (unlikely as it cost me $100) or send the picture on page 24 plz pm me or email me. 
it looks like i kinda duplicated this post while trying to make attachments.
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks
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03-02-2010, 06:57 AM
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#10
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,567
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DAN L,
I believe the "Attachment" is what you were looking to show the persons that you were communicating with.
I hope this helps. Contained are the complete Wheel Bearing service requirements for both W and P series motorhome chassis.
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03-02-2010, 03:28 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: KAPOLEI, HAWAII AND VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON
Posts: 1,846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriVer
DAN L,
I believe the "Attachment" is what you were looking to show the persons that you were communicating with.
I hope this helps. Contained are the complete Wheel Bearing service requirements for both W and P series motorhome chassis.
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thats the one alright!

__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks
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