Driving Lights

[Rom]

Not sure if this need to be posted on the National RV Owner's Forum but the driving light on my W-24 is out. Haven't checked it - for those of you that had this happened, is it just the bulb that needs to be replaced or the whole assembly? Thanks for the assistance.

[kennersonf]

Several years ago my driving lights were inoperative. It was still under warranty and Redland's Truck replaced a module. That solved the problem. You might give KC at Redland's Truck a call (909) 792-0314.

[two2go]

Can anyone give me a clue about this driving light "module", where it is, what to check? My Dolphin is supposed to have driving lights according to all literature, it has actual lights and good bulbs (I checked) with wiring to the bulbs, but they do not light up under any condition or with any switch. Workhorse supposedly supplied a working driving light circuit, and I have a good fuse.

[M&EM]

By driving lights I believe you mean the two lights in front. On mine these lite up when in drive and the park brake pedal has been released. On occasion, the switch attached to the park brake release lever has failed to actuate and the drive lights don't come on. Repeated application and release usually gets this to work. So there probably is some switch associated with the drive lights and park brake system. On the the 05s it may have a different park brake arrangement then the 03 I have. You may want to look for a switch associated with you park brake system.

Marty

[Rom]

Thanks Fred: I'm way up north from Redlands so I'll try Brazel's instead. If need be, they're only about about 80 miles from where I'm at.

[JonBrazel]

I have 1 daytime running light module in stock at this time...if you could post the last 8 digits of your VIN # I could double check to see if it will work for your year coach.

[two2go]

My question is still open--where is the day running light module? I would like to test it before throwing money at it. I'm guessing a replacement module costs quite a bit. If mine doesn't work, I will just get a $5 relay and wire it into the ignition-on circuit and the driving lights. My W22 coach uses 00-02 Chevy Tahoe light units that have separate high and low beams and the DRL bulbs are in the park-turn light unit below the headlights.

[JonBrazel]

Most of the time we see this module located behind the intrument cluster bundled together with other wiring. It looks like a circuit board chip, about 1.5" square.

[oemtech]

Here you go.... from my FREE web site

[two2go]

Thank you JonBrazel and Oemy. Oemy, you the man--great resource. From the pictures, I found my module. It is under a removable dash access cover forward from the instrument cluster. For some odd reason, my horn and DRL modules were covered with masking tape and I didn't see them previously. These modules are simple relays. My horn module was in upside down which might explain why the roof horns don't work. Will test that later.

Here is what I am seeing on my setup. The DRL SPDT relay module (the black #7866 box in the photo) has the standard 30, 85, 86, 87, and 87a terminals. The relay tests fine. With the ignition off, I measure 13.4v at socket term. 87 which is unswitched +12v supply. The other socket terms are cold. With the ignition on I have +12.3v at 85 and +13.4v at 86. Now 85 and 86 are the leads across the relay coil, so I would expect only one of these to be hot and the other ground to close the relay coil which bridges 87 to 30. When I close the circuit from 87 to 30 with a jumper wire, my running lights come on. I suspect that since I am seeing +12v (or more) at both 85 and 86, the coil is not going to close and some other event needs to happen to bring down the power at one of these terminals to close the coil. Maybe releasing the brake or engaging drive, which I can't test now. I think I am close to having working running lights.

[two2go]

I finally got my DRLs working by making a ground connection to the 86 relay terminal. Description and pics here Driving Lights-Finally! .