Electric fan for radiator cooling

[69judge]

Originally Posted by pasdad1

I would have the radiator rodded out and cleaned, and I believe there is a test gadget that can detect combustion gasses in the coolant. If it were me, I would focus on those two items first, because if the cooling system is not doing it's job properly, it may not be the fan's fault. Remember those increased MPG numbers you were seeing with the electric fan ? I wouldn't want to give those up. Many diesel buses and diesel/electric locomotives these days are cooled by electric fans.......it is the future.

Don't know the CFM on the stock fan when it's roaring, I would bet is close to 10,000

[69judge]

My 2001 8.1 is all cast iron, only has 36,000 miles on it and the fan clutch is working perfect. But my tensioner pulley needs replecent.

[UFO Pilot]

Originally Posted by 69judge

My 2001 8.1 is all cast iron, only has 36,000 miles on it and the fan clutch is working perfect. But my tensioner pulley needs replecent.

I just bought one from https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/store/

[LarryMars]

Originally Posted by pasdad1

I would have the radiator rodded out and cleaned, and I believe there is a test gadget that can detect combustion gasses in the coolant. If it were me, I would focus on those two items first, because if the cooling system is not doing it's job properly, it may not be the fan's fault. Remember those increased MPG numbers you were seeing with the electric fan ? I wouldn't want to give those up. Many diesel buses and diesel/electric locomotives these days are cooled by electric fans.......it is the future.

I had the radiator flushed. The radiator coolant looked perfectly clean. And it was working great before the serpentine belt died. Also, the mechanic ran this test for coolant in the combustion gasses twice, but seemed not to trust the results, for some reason.

[LarryMars]

Originally Posted by 69judge

My 2001 8.1 is all cast iron, only has 36,000 miles on it and the fan clutch is working perfect. But my tensioner pulley needs replecent.

I had my tensioner replaced also.

[LarryMars]

I am attempting to install my new fan shroud. I am assuming that it butts right up against the radiator fins, as the rectangular front is just the right size to fit into that space. The sides fit closely against the side of the space (indicated by arrow 'A'), and the bottom and top fit behind the lips (the bottom lip is pointed to by arrow 'B'). (See radiator photo)

The three mounting holes along the top of the shroud (see shroud top photo) align with three similar unthreaded holes on the top lip of the radiator. (see picture of hole that was taken between two hoses).

I have at least three questions:

1. Is my assumption that the shroud fits up against the radiator fins correct?

2. What kind of hardware do I use at the shroud top? As you can see, there are structures to keep it pushed toward the radiator, so it can't bolt directly to the top lip.

3. there are some clips at the radiator bottom lip. (the one on the passenger side can be seen to the left of the 'B' arrowhead) Are these used? Is anything used, as there are no holes in the bottom shroud.

I can use all the help I gan get. Thanks

[M&EM]

Larry, Glad to see you got the parts.

The top and bottom shrouds do not contact the radiator fins. Look at the top radiator frame. There should be holes there from original top shroud mounting screws/bolts. I used an addition 2 screws and washers along the top.

The top and bottom shrouds bolt together. I used 1/4-20 bolts and 1/4-20 threaded clips. The clips attach to the top shroud flange. Bolts come up from the bottom..

The lower shroud's edge fits into those clips. There may be some customizing to be done with the lower shroud's position and clearance with the fan blade. I used several sheet metal screws and flat washers to secure the bottom edge in place as a final attachment for a > 3/8" clearances with the fan blade. The bottom center of the shroud needs to be secure, suction from the fan will try to move the shroud into the fan.

The side seal pieces slip over the side edges of top and bottom shrouds..

The rubber parts of the side pieces should line up pressing against the radiator tanks-- not the fins. There should be marking to indicate which side of the rubber should faces forward toward the radiator..

Note:

On mine the top shroud was originally offset toward to the DS allowing the PS side piece to NOT contact the tank properly. It consequently got sucked into the fan blade!!! So did the second replacement side piece!!! Check that yours is centered.

On the third replacement, I relocated the top shroud 1/2" toward the PS side. BTW I used 5 attaching screws across the upper shroud instead of the 3 OEM..

I also cut the side pieces into two parts and riveted them to the sides of the upper and lower shrouds. Doing this makes for very easy lower shroud removal, fan, belt, and clutch replacements. afterwards..

Here is a link to some of my shroud mods
M&EM Album - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery

[LarryMars]

Originally Posted by M&EM

Larry, Glad to see you got the parts.
The top and bottom shrouds do not contact the radiator fins. Look at the top radiator frame. There should be holes there from original top shroud mounting screws/bolts. I used an addition 2 screws and washers along the top.

Wow! Did I ever get that wrong. It fit so well in there and that space squared up the top and bottom so the fan hole was round.

So I mount it to the outside of the that top and bottom lip. Now the bottom clips make sense.

Originally Posted by M&EM

The top and bottom shrouds bolt together. I used 1/4-20 bolts and 1/4-20 threaded clips. The clips attach to the top shroud flange. Bolts come up from the bottom..

I bought some of those clips today. I noticed in your photos that you put something between the halves. What was it?

Originally Posted by M&EM

The side seal pieces slip over the side edges of top and bottom shrouds..
The rubber parts of the side pieces should line up pressing against the radiator tanks-- not the fins. There should be marking to indicate which side of the rubber should faces forward toward the radiator..

Where do you get the side pieces? I only got the top and bottom.

[M&EM]

I got my shroud parts from WH service center in Lake Havasu, AZ. Very friendly and fast service.

Joes Auto, RV & Truck,
N Lake Havasu, AZ
928 855-5823

The side piece PN : wh# w0006215 side strip seal. (2)..

Be sure to get those side pieces...Cooling system will not perform well with out them!!!!!!!!

Some interesting shroud picture can be found here at thread#24

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/workh...ht=fan+shrouds

What you saw in the photos was my fix for the interference I experienced with the fan blade touching the the lower shroud at the six oclock position. You may not need this..

I basically traced out the shroud flange onto a used 3/8" thick cutting board made of polypropelene. I screw attached the shims to the upper shroud. This shimmed the lower shroud downward. I was not able to use the clips at the bottom anymore so I used several sheet metal screw to anchor the bottom edge in place.

What part numbers did you order?

Other shroud part numbers I came across are:

gm# 159805519-upper

gm# 159805518- lower
wh# w0006215 side strip seal
new wh#s
w0013763 upper. $42.78
w0013764 lower. $42.78
These are what I ordered
w0005416 upper
w0005417 lower

[LarryMars]

Originally Posted by M&EM

What part numbers did you order?

Other shroud part numbers I came across are:

gm# 159805519-upper

gm# 159805518- lower
wh# w0006215 side strip seal
new wh#s
w0013763 upper. $42.78
w0013764 lower. $42.78
These are what I ordered
w0005416 upper
w0005417 lower

I got the W0013763 and W0013764 parts. Both came as W8005661 for $72.21. I got it through Elway Chevrolet in Denver, CO. I tried McBride's Service and Supply Company in Chino CA, where I got the fan and clutch, but they couldn't get it. I called there today and ordered the side strips and the transmission cooler lines. The parts manager told me that they were in the process of molding a new shroud out of fiberglass. Evidently they have been involved with Workhorse for many years. Have you heard of this company?

[LarryMars]

After an unsuccessful attempt to find a mechanic who would install the fan shroud for me, I decided to tackle the job myself. I mounted the top piece with 1/4" clip-nuts and bolts at the two upper corners. I can't get to the center hole because it is not visible. Then I screwed on the fan/clutch assembly and got the lower shroud under the clips on the lower radiator frame, and used more clip-nuts and bolts to attach the bottom to the top. I put the nut-clips in the bottom shroud (there were indentations for them) and the bolts screwed down from the top.

I noticed that the sides bow outward, shortening the fan hole in the vertical direction. The fan blade rubs the shroud at the bottom, but there is plenty of clearance at the top. If I press the sides in, the fan hole elongates in the vertical direction and there is about 1/4" clearance. I can't move it down, because the top bolts are at the top of the slotted holes and the bottom shroud is at the bottom of the clips.

I have not received the side pieces yet, as they are coming with the transmission cooler lines, one of which is on back-order. I am hoping that these pieces will tie the bow out of the shroud sides so that the bottom clearance opens up.

I guess I will also need to use a spacer between the two halves. To get the lower shroud to come down, I will need to notch it where the clips are. I will also use some self tapping screws to help keep it in place.

Thanks for all the great tips. I wouldn't have tried this without this forum.

[M&EM]

Originally Posted by LarryMars

I mounted the top piece with 1/4" clip-nuts and bolts at the two upper corners. I can't get to the center hole because it is not visible. Then I screwed on the fan/clutch assembly and got the lower shroud under the clips on the lower radiator frame, and used more clip-nuts and bolts to attach the bottom to the top. I put the nut-clips in the bottom shroud (there were indentations for them) and the bolts screwed down from the top.



I noticed that the sides bow outward, shortening the fan hole in the vertical direction. The fan blade rubs the shroud at the bottom, but there is plenty of clearance at the top. If I press the sides in, the fan hole elongates in the vertical direction and there is about 1/4" clearance. I can't move it down, because the top bolts are at the top of the slotted holes and the bottom shroud is at the bottom of the clips.

I have not received the side pieces yet, as they are coming with the transmission cooler lines, one of which is on back-order. I am hoping that these pieces will tie the bow out of the shroud sides so that the bottom clearance opens up.

I guess I will also need to use a spacer between the two halves. To get the lower shroud to come down, I will need to notch it where the clips are. I will also use some self tapping screws to help keep it in place.

Larry,

I suggest you add at least 2 more attaching screws (sheet metal) along the top of the upper shroud..

I removed the bottom clips and allowed the lower shroud to come downward enough to provide better fan blade clearance.. .The sides will straighten some what also.

I attached with 4 or 5 sheet metal screws spaced along bottom shroud edge -- to Radiator frame. Before you secure the bottom shroud, attach the side pieces when you get them.

I also found mine easier to bolt from underneath--- with clips on the upper shroud flange.

Mine needed the shim I indicated in earlier post, but yours may not need one. I tried to get at least a finger width of space.

[LarryMars]

Originally Posted by M&EM

Larry,

I suggest you add at least 2 more attaching screws (sheet metal) along the top of the upper shroud..

This is a hard area for me to get to. As can be seen from the photo, there are hoses going every which way. I tried to take the air intake hose off, but I could not get the bottom connection to the air filter box to come apart. If I can figure this out, that might open up the right side. Notice in the photo that the hole in the intake bracket does not align with the hole in the shroud. If I move the shroud to the left about 5/8", it would align ok, and the fan hole would be better centered around the fan blade. I would have to give up the existing mounting holes and the shroud would not be centered over the radiator.

Removing the clips seemed to help a lot, except that there is not as much bottom radiator frame to screw into.

[M&EM]

Originally Posted by LarryMars

This is a hard area for me to get to. As can be seen from the photo, there are hoses going every which way. I tried to take the air intake hose off, but I could not get the bottom connection to the air filter box to come apart. If I can figure this out, that might open up the right side. Notice in the photo that the hole in the intake bracket does not align with the hole in the shroud. If I move the shroud to the left about 5/8", it would align ok, and the fan hole would be better centered around the fan blade. I would have to give up the existing mounting holes and the shroud would not be centered over the radiator.

Removing the clips seemed to help a lot, except that there is not as much bottom radiator frame to screw into.

Larry, loosen the clamps attaching the air intake tube from the throttle body and at the MAF at the bottom of the air intake tube enough to slide the ends of the tube. See if you can reposition the air intake to align with the mounting hole in the upper shroud. The original attachment used a 1/4" plastic expansion plug that snaps into that mounting hole. (checker auto part)...

Separate the tube from the attached components. Cover the opening to the throttle body with a rag.

The lower end of the tube is best gotten to via the wheel well area
You will probably have a cloth like curtain covering that lower part of the tube and MAF. Carefully remove the plastic ties securing the cloth to give you working room.

Unplug the wire going to the MAF. Then remove the MAF and air filter cover. Be careful to not touch any inner parts of the MAF. Put that assembly safely aside.

With both ends of the intake tube separated, try to maneuver the tube out of the way or out of the engine compartment.

The top of the upper shroud will be uncovered. Check side to side location and places to add extra screws on the top edge.

If the shroud is centered left to right between the radiator tanks, I would not alter that..

I too had little area along bottom frame to secure lower shroud. Don't need much! Use flat washers against plastic.