Community Forums

litlgeezer · 05-14-2016, 09:37 AM

On my 2004 Damon Intruder 373W 8.1L, I toggle the switch to STORE at the stairwell. When I go to push it back on, I have to press the USE switch several several times before the small red LED will glow normally and the interior lights will work. Then, when I go to crank the Genset, nothing happens. I return to the stairwell and see that the LED is glowing very dimly. I press the Voltage Check button and see that it is showing only about 6 or 7 volts. (After toggling between and STORE AND USE and bring the LED to bright again, the voltage reads 13V) I repeat the process and the same thing happens. I checked the voltage across the two 6V house batteries and get a combined reading of about 12 volts. I press the AUX ISOLATOR SWITCH on the engine control panel and it clicks as per instruction. All this process is done with the shore power disconnect. With fully charged batteries, I have been able to crank up the Genset in the past.

I had had a problem on our last trip where the chassis battery had discharged. I removed the battery and put it on a slow charge overnight. I carried the battery to the shop where I had purchased it less than a year ago. They load tested it and gave it a clean bill of health. I cleaned all the connectors and replaced it. I checked the alternator and it appears to be charging the chassis battery as designed. The engine cranks up fine (that the battery is fully charged). I figured that I had left something on that had drained the battery over time. I've learned that the water temp guage starts acting erratically when the engine battery is in trouble.

Now I am having this other issue and I don't know if all this is related to each other. Can anyone give me any clues to follow up on?

Skip426 · 05-14-2016, 09:54 AM

Two things that would worry me.
Reading at the batteries of " about 12v " . Batteries in a good state of charge should give a 12.5 > 12.7 volt reading.
The erratic operation of your battery disconnect and the low voltage reading on your panel would be an indication of a poor connection between the battery and the panel.
You may have a large circuit breaker or fuse in the coach battery cable ; my chassis has a 135 amp fuse to handle the gen set starter draw; usually within 3 feet of the batteries; that is corroded or a bad ground to the chassis frame .
Once you get the same voltage at the panel that you get by testing at the batteries you should be fine.

garyspang · 05-14-2016, 04:07 PM

You may want to jumper the switching contacts on the house/battery connect/disconnect relay and check the brightness of your LED or house lights.

litlgeezer · 05-15-2016, 06:53 AM

Appreciate the responses. I'll consider the suggestions, however, electronics happens to be one of my weakest areas of the trades.

With the MH on shore power (the LED bright and voltage meter > 13v), I am guessing that the converter is doing its job. However, when I went to start the genset, I get this series of 'clicking', similar to a bad connection on a car battery - or a dead battery. So, I have left it on shore power to allow the converter to charge the two house batteries all night. After church, I intend to try cranking the genset again. If this doesn't work, I'll 'load test' the house batteries with my old diesel tractor. These batteries may have gone bad.

Thanks.

mgscott4 · 05-16-2016, 11:00 AM

It is no mystery. You have a problem with your Battery Control center (BCC). Most likely it was manufactured by "Custom RV Products" and one or both of their junk relays are going bad.

The model 2050 was recalled, see if yours is the same one.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ll-169291.html

nothermark · 05-16-2016, 12:07 PM

Even if it was not a Thor product the symptoms are classic for a failing power relay. The clicking is the solenoid pulling in the core with the contacts attached. Switching high currents tends to burn away or otherwise degrade the contact material. That results in a higher resistance connection the low voltage does not punch through well so your switch ends up as a low value resistance dropping part of the circuit voltage across the contacts. Each time the relay is actuated it changes the contact quality.

litlgeezer · 05-17-2016, 05:52 PM

I tested the existing Interstate coach batteries and they failed my load test. I went to a local golf shop and purchased two new US batteries at a $101 each. I cleaned up the ground (appeared good) and also the chassis ground while I was at it. Scraped off some rust and primed/painted the support. I also bolted down the battery tray to the supports.

I had no problem cranking up the genset. The Use/Store switch is working. The voltage is displaying 12.5v. So, as long as each of the battery sets (coach and chassis) are getting recharge sufficiently in the future, I guess we will be okay.

As for the BCC, I don't know how to test it myself for bad relays. It has an area that is for some type of testing, but I'm not familiar with it and have no instruction manual specific for the BCC.

Thanks to all commenters.