Engine not started for 2 years

[CAD-Man]

I have not started my motor home in 2 years and now need to use the motor home for a vacation. It is a 2003 Newmar Kountry Star on a W22 chassis. I have Mobil 1 oil in the engine. I bought some Amzoil Fogging Oil and my plan was to pull each plug and spray the fogging oil into each cylinder and then hand crank the engine a few revolutions and the spay in more fogging oil and the let it set about a week and the attempt to start the engine.
Is there anyone out there that may have some better suggestions on how to approach this or will what I'm proposing work well enough.

CAD-Man

[JCM]

Sounds good to me. What kind of enviroment has it been stored in? Near the sea shore. In the desert etc.?
If it was dry, the ist procedure might be enough. Don't foul the plugs.

[oemtech]

1) As long as you are at it I would replace the spark plugs... you already have removed them.
2) I would also change the oil and filter.
3) Flush and bleed the brakes.
4) Fresh gas with Stabil or Sea Foam and replace the fuel filter
Optional
4) Flush the cooling system
5) Replace the tranny fluid

Remember, even in a dry climate there is some condensation.

[CAD-Man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCM Sounds good to me. What kind of enviroment has it been stored in? Near the sea shore. In the desert etc.? If it was dry, the ist procedure might be enough. Don't foul the plugs.

My Motor Home is stored on my property in west central Wyoming at 7000 feet. It is considered high desert where the humidity averages about 13% year around. It does get cold here, as low as 25 below, but the average winter temp is about 27 and average summer is about 76.

It's kind of an ideal storage area.

CAD-Man

[EngineerMike]

What Dale said. IIWM, I'd do #1, 3 & the first 4 before attempting to fire. Check dipstick for water (condensation) & do 2 if there is significant amount. If not, then 2, the second 4 and 5 after warming everything up.

Dale- does he have any brake caliper maintenance to catch up on sitting this long?

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EngineerMike Dale- does he have any brake caliper maintenance to catch up on sitting this long?

Not unless he has problems when he takes a test drive.

[sknight]

I'd change the oil and fire it. Take it and have the brake system flushed and trans fluid changed if it's time.

Two years isn't a big deal especially in the high desert, so long as the coolant was up to snuff.

[CAD-Man]

I thought I should tell you all of my progress for the no start in 2 years. I removed all plugs, and in the process damaged 4 plug wires. Then sprayed Amsoil fogging oil into each cylinder. Then I replaced the plugs finger tight and let it set for a week. I then removed the power from all of the coils and cranked it for about 15 seconds at a time to build oil pressure. I then replaced all of the plugs and wires and started it up. I let it run for about 20 minutes then changed the oil. Filled it with gas and went on my trip. In 2500 miles the gas MPG for all tanks combined ran 8.25 MPG. No problems with the motor home on the trip except both air conditioner covers were ripped off during a sever thunder storm in western South Dakota and a couple of plastic parts broke inside of the motor home due to age.

Also one note I had no problems with the brakes. But I still have problems with bad miss fires when driving in heavy rain. I only happens above 3500 RPM as soon as I get to dry pavement it stops.


CAD-Man

[JCM]

Check your "Tuba" on the air cleaner. Make sure there is a front "blocker" to stop water from blowing in - some e manufactures hide the top of the tuba to one side away from direct input from the grill. There is also a shield available - I think you can find here on the form. Also make sure the drain "tit" at the bottom of the tuba is open - squeeze it and see if the slit opens- this allows accumulated water to drip out.
Once fixed - change your air filter as it will brobably be dammaged.
Been there done that.

[edgray]

Quote:

Originally Posted by CAD-Man I thought I should tell you all of my progress for the no start in 2 years......... Also one note I had no problems with the brakes. But I still have problems with bad miss fires when driving in heavy rain. I only happens above 3500 RPM as soon as I get to dry pavement it stops. CAD-Man

CAD-Man: Congrats on sucessfully re-starting. You done good. Glad you enjoyed a trouble free trip afterwards.

Regarding the "miss fires" above, you have classic symptoms of water ingestion fouling the signal from the MAF sensor to the ECM. I just uploaded to the photo section 4 pictures which show you where the problem resides, IMO. I'll try to post them here too. I found it easiest to remove the entire box from the chassis and since done have had zero problems with sputtering in the rain. ED

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showph...4&ppuser=19091

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by edgray I found it easiest to remove the entire box from the chassis and since done have had zero problems with sputtering in the rain. ED

Huh Did I miss something. What do you use for an air filter ED?

[Full-Timers]

I remember a while back reading that Newmar’s hood door design allows rain water to flow past the hinged area and right into the air intake (tuba). The fix is to run a strip of weather seal in the hinge area to block the water.

[edgray]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oemtech Huh Did I miss something. What do you use for an air filter ED?

Dale: That was a classic "poor choice" of words.
I should have said "after I put it all back together" I've had no more problems.

To answer your question, "Mr. Frugal" is still using the original type paper filter....I think the # is 917C or somesuch, whatever fits the box. As long as it is NOT made by STP, which is so cheaply made I did not install it. I went to napa and bought one of their "gold" filters that fit. And I'm still running the OE foam filter cover that has been washed and reused several times. Did I mention I'm cheap?
ED

[edgray]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers I remember a while back reading that Newmar’s hood door design allows rain water to flow past the hinged area and right into the air intake (tuba). The fix is to run a strip of weather seal in the hinge area to block the water.

FT: you are correct and our member Roger Moore "007" is credited for that seal which I installed also. However, I still had the wet filter / sputtering problem, which led me to seal up the filter housing, which was the needed repair for mine. IMO, the water that goes in the "tuba" will fall out the bottom. Mine is coated with dust due to Roger's idea. ED