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Old 07-13-2019, 03:21 PM   #1
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False "BRAKE FAILURE" Warning

2004, 35N, Sightseer had the "Brake Failure Warning" message along with a constant beep displayed on the dashboard.
The brakes were a OK. I just finished replacing an ABS speed sensor, a brake hose and blead the system thoroughly. After about 20 miles the warning came on. After I checked the brakes and parked it at home, an IRV2 search revealed a possible front to back wheels pressure unbalance sensor action. I followed the procedure outlined in another post for clearing it ( slamming on the brakes real hard), but it did not work.
Measuring the resistance between the sensor single contact and the master cylinder body revealed 80 ohms. A very weird value. It should be an open circuit for normal operation and a closed (near Zero Ohms) circuit to indicate a brake failure.
Upon removal of the sensor, it snapped off with hardly any torque applied. The pictures attached revealed that rust formed between the master cylinder body and the sensor flange at the end of the thread. This expanded the space between the sensor and the master cylinder causing a micro-crack (light brown discoloration) for contaminants to enter. Thus the weird 80 Ohms. Replacement part number is Workhorse W8000130, or OEM Bendix 2232548. The price varied from about $45 + shipping t0 $15 with free shipping on Ebay. Waiting on replacement at present so I figured to post this False warning issue.
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Old 07-13-2019, 07:10 PM   #2
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I had the same issue about a year ago and got the part from Ultra RV Products, one of the sponsors of this forum. The price was not an issue. One of the they do is verify parts by your VIN number.
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Old 07-13-2019, 08:50 PM   #3
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What normally holds the plastic piece in place?
Stan
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Old 07-13-2019, 11:53 PM   #4
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The sensor has about a 1/2 inch threaded portion that is still in the body of the master cylinder. It could have been fixed with superglue.
The sensor is nothing but a stainless steel pin that contacts an hour glass shaped piston. Normally the piston is centered and the sensor pin does not make contact with it. If a leak causes the front or back set of brakes to have lower pressure than the good set, then the piston moves sideways and the body of the hour glass ends makes contact with the pin. This contact to ground causes the alarm to go off.
Pretty foolproof arrangement. Unfortunately an oversight occurred. The installation should leave a small space between the sensor body and the master cylinder. Thus if and when rust forms it will not push against the sensor body and cause it to crack.
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Old 07-14-2019, 05:51 AM   #5
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Did you lose fluid during the part swap, and if so, what is the bleeding procedure? How easy was it to remove the broken piece still in the master cylinder?
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyspang View Post
The sensor has about a 1/2 inch threaded portion that is still in the body of the master cylinder. It could have been fixed with superglue.
The sensor is nothing but a stainless steel pin that contacts an hour glass shaped piston. Normally the piston is centered and the sensor pin does not make contact with it. If a leak causes the front or back set of brakes to have lower pressure than the good set, then the piston moves sideways and the body of the hour glass ends makes contact with the pin. This contact to ground causes the alarm to go off.
Pretty foolproof arrangement. Unfortunately an oversight occurred. The installation should leave a small space between the sensor body and the master cylinder. Thus if and when rust forms it will not push against the sensor body and cause it to crack.
Thank you garyspang. Excellent description.
I also am interested in what needed to be done to remove the broken part inside the master cylinder.
Stan
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Old 07-17-2019, 07:01 AM   #7
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I will update this post after the replacement is received.
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:04 PM   #8
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Replacement procedure

It was tedious to remove the threaded portion of the sensor. No fluid escaped and frequent sucking with a straw on a vacuum cleaner kept the debris out of the hole. An easy-out was tried, but it only made the hole bigger in the plastic. A 2 point tool was tried, but the required torque could not be delivered. So follow the pictures to see how it was done...Ö
No more false brake alarm.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:55 PM   #9
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Great photos, thanks for posting. Couple of questions. Was this a blind hole, I.e., does the pin penetrate into the reservoir or is there some type of seal/diaphragm that keeps the fluid separated? Is that a hand drill (turned by hand)? Do you know if the metal threads were longer than the threads on the sensor?

Thanks
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:57 AM   #10
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That was an excellent play by play on your most difficult project
I'm so glad that it now works the way it should
Thanks
Stan
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:14 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
Great photos, thanks for posting. Couple of questions. Was this a blind hole, I.e., does the pin penetrate into the reservoir or is there some type of seal/diaphragm that keeps the fluid separated? Is that a hand drill (turned by hand)? Do you know if the metal threads were longer than the threads on the sensor?

Thanks
The opening reduces to a small clearance hole that allows the sensor pin to penetrate into the closed space that contains the hour-glass shuttle. The latter must have tight seals at both ends because no fluid leaked out.
The drill bit is turned by hand to reduce damage to the threads and to control the plastic removal rate.
The female threads in the master cylinder are longer than the sensor's threads by about two turns.
A lot of vacuuming with a drinking-straw reduction tip was done to prevent debris from entering the sensor clearance hole.
Vettenuts: My newly obtained 1992 Corvette A/C is not working. 100psi in system. Any suggestions?
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Old 07-20-2019, 05:58 AM   #12
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First thing I always check with these type of issues is the condenser for blockage since the cooling system is a bottom feeder and basically a vacuum cleaner. Although in this case, I would think you would also see signs of high coolant temps as well. However, this check is relatively easy.

If it blowing hot, I would suspect the temperature door isnít moving. If you arenít getting much air out, then it may be a blockage. Have seen several Corvettes stored in winter get infiltrated by mice.

Hopefully the issue is under the hood, because working under the dash is a nightmare.

You might want to join Corvetteforum.com and post a question there. There are a lot of knowledgeable people there, as in this forum, and you may get better answers than I can provide as I am not that familiar with the AC system but know some of the common issues with the 4th and especially 5th generation Corvettes.

Not sure if you have seen the new Corvette just released Thursday, but it is the first one I have seen that I would be willing to update. Unfortunately, that idea has already been vetoed but I plan to keep working on it
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:31 AM   #13
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Vettenuts: Please check you Private Message folder
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