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12-09-2014, 06:18 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Milford,CT.
Posts: 2,237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboy473
Cheap way is to lightly spritz some WD-40 or similar into the pulley bearing and listen for a change. If a change, spritz again and hope for the best, or change out the pulley wheel.
IF no change, then inspect belt for oil. If you're careful, take a rag soaked with clorox or similar de-greaser, and lightly rub the belt while it's turning. BE CAREFUL that you don't have a strong hold on said rag, and that you don't press rag against belt too strong.
If no change, change out both belt and pulley...or get rid of the cat or mouse that's hiding in the engine bay.
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This has got to be some of the worse advice. Please don't try this Clorox stunt.
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12-09-2014, 07:41 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 335
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Let's not beat up on bamaboy's advice too much. After all he is from Alabama. Haha!
1994 Holiday Rambler Navigator
Cummins 8.3
Allison MD3060
__________________
1994 Holiday Rambler Navigator
300HP Cummins 8.3
Allison MD 3060
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12-09-2014, 07:50 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Gulf Coast, Alabama
Posts: 2,450
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[QUOTE=gemini5362;2339112]
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboy473
. If you're careful, take a rag soaked with clorox or similar de-greaser, and lightly rub the belt while it's turning.
Not to mention the absolute correct earlier posts about spinning belts and fans. Do you really want to hold Clorox against something that is spinning and has friction. I am not a big fan of heated up Clorox. Especially if it gets hot enough to turn to a gas.
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The belt would not be rotating very fast at all, and holding a rag or sponge with pliers is the way to do this quick test.
A small spritz of WD40 onto the bearing is all that's needed, so the belt should not be afftected. Both tests would isolate the cause if replacement of either or both was a very last resort.
However, I now agree with prior posters that caution against doing such a thing. While it's done often by those that do these things, the technique isn't something to share with those that potentially aren't adept at working on moving parts. I concur with the general consensus.
__________________
Rick and Sandy
2003 American Eagle, 59K miles
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12-09-2014, 07:53 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Gulf Coast, Alabama
Posts: 2,450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GA Navigator
Let's not beat up on bamaboy's advice too much. After all he is from Alabama. Haha!
1994 Holiday Rambler Navigator
Cummins 8.3
Allison MD3060
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Dang, tough crowd...
__________________
Rick and Sandy
2003 American Eagle, 59K miles
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12-10-2014, 07:57 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO./Pollock, LA.
Posts: 1,556
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Bottom line, the OP's MH is a 2006 model with XX miles on it. Moving things wear out. Just go ahead and replace the tensioner, the idler pulley and the belt. All 3 of these can be purchased for $80, $20, and $35 at any local auto parts store.
Do you want to take a chance on having to do a repair on the side of the road? Or have to tow it and really screw up your trip?
Here is reference for part numbers.
http://oemys-performance.com/whparts.htm
(Thank You again, Oemy.)
__________________
06 Hurricane 34FT WH W20 Chassis 8.1L 132K, Steersafe, Koni Shocks, DIY Trac Bar, Tri-Metric 2025RV Battery Monitor, 4-6V Batteries, Scan Gauge 2, Crossfires, 735W Solar Morningstar MPPT-60, WG T4 In-Motion Sat, XM Radio, 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx Toad, Falcon 2, Brake Buddy, Escapee
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12-10-2014, 08:48 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Glendora Ca.
Posts: 1,588
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Also, the a/c compressor clutch bearings have a tendency to seize.
Mike
__________________
2004 Monaco Monarch
Blueox, SMI, 1990 Wrangler YJ
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12-10-2014, 09:04 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clovis, CA, USA
Posts: 13,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfire1339
Also, the a/c compressor clutch bearings have a tendency to seize.
Mike
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Yep...set me back $1,000.
__________________
2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD, W22, 8.1, 7.1 MPG
2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
Criticism is easier than Craftsmanship
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12-26-2014, 12:03 AM
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#22
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Junior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 15
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Squeaking belt
I just experienced the same belt noise while traveling. Noise only occurred while idling. First mechanic said he thought it was a bearing in the AC compressor, but I there was not a change in the sound when AC was turned on and off. So I continued to drive another 400 miles and stopped at another truck shop and he said he was positive that it was a bearing in the power steering unit. Again, there was no change in noise when I turned the steering wheel to max in both directions. Third stop was at a certified Workhorse shop, where I left it. He called to say I needed a new AC compressor at a cost of $1300. I am still not convinced that the idler pully bearing was not the problem since AC or power steering was not affected by noise. Wish I had taken the time to check it out myself before spending the money.
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