Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum
Click Here to Login
Register FilesVendors Registry Blogs FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-30-2011, 06:48 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ. USA
Posts: 113
Fan shroud CRAZINESS!!!

I'm still working on getting fan shrouds for my May 2002 built w22 chassis.. I got a "so called kit" which is nothing more than the upper and lower shroud with holes for bolts and no hole in the bottom for the middle lower screw (W8005661). I'm thinking that when WH changed the fan setup they also changed the shroud configeration.?? These shields are flat on the sides with no 1/2 inch extension on the sides to block the air flow.. There is a half inch gap between the shroud and the radiator... I'm sitting here on the phone looking at the old and new shrouds and being told that this is the correct part number... It may be the only one they have (Workhorse Chicago) but it's NOT the right part.. Especially frustrating when I'm holding the G$#$#n part in my hand and being told that I am doing something wrong. GRHHHHH!! HELP does anybody have a part number for the shroud with the 1/2 inch extension that touches the radiatior and blocks the air flow like the one I"M SITTIN' HERE LOOKING AT. As always any help or thoughts appreciated. Jim C. 520-227-2751
__________________
2003 Aerbus,W22
JimAerbus,W22,2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 08-30-2011, 07:14 PM   #2
Moderator Emeritus
 
"007"'s Avatar
 
Nor'easters Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
Jim scroll down and check the numbers on this list for your fan shrouds.
__________________
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans
VISIT the NEWMAR QUICK TIPS & EASYMODS 1 & 2
QUICK TIPS # 3
RV SYSTEMS & APPLIANCES & RECALLS --- TECH INFORMATION
"007" is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2011, 07:24 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ. USA
Posts: 113
Yeah I saw that after I made this post..They are all the same shrouds with changed part numbers for individual shrouds.. The "KIT" has the latest is what they say... Looks like I'm going to have to start making up the rubber "wings" for the shrouds!! My old shrouds are hard plastic with NO rubber... Also right on, about the reason for shroud distruction. I loosened my upper radiator hose and turned it a inch or so off the shroud base and I am going to do someting about the way the air horn attaches to shroud. Engine moves all the time, but shroud doesn't of course... Recipe for disaster right there. PPPlaning and engineering. Thanks, jim C.
__________________
2003 Aerbus,W22
JimAerbus,W22,2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2011, 08:18 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
National RV Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,502
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimAerbus,W22,2003 View Post
HELP does anybody have a part number for the shroud with the 1/2 inch extension that touches the radiatior and blocks the air flow like the one I"M SITTIN' HERE LOOKING AT. As always any help or thoughts appreciated. Jim C. 520-227-2751
Jim,
I got A part number for the side seals you mentioned. W0006215.

I didn't order these as I was able to fabricate using garage door bottom rubber seal material purchased at Home Depot and attached with brushed on contact cement. I installed 4 pieces. 2 on the top shroud and 2 on the bottom. I did not glue rubber to the tanks only to the shroud material. I was concerned about hot tanks affecting the cement. One edge of the seal is ribbed. I placed that edge against the tanks. Used two coats of cement before contacting. Sorry I didn't snap off any photos at the time.

I also used same material/procedure to cover slot milled into top shroud by the fan.
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342, W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus, Scan Gauge II.. 2004 Jeep Liberty, Blue-Ox Adventa..
M&EM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2011, 08:39 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Full-Timers's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Rexhall Owners Group
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Everywhere,USA
Posts: 1,518
Jim, these are the rubber strips that came off my original shroud and I put them back on the new one.



They might be the same thing that M&EM mentioned, part number W0006215. This is what it looks like installed.



These are the part numbers on my new shroud found on the inside of the shrouds.
Upper Shroud – W0013763
Lower Shroud – W0013764
__________________
Full-Timers
in a
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W22 Workhorse
Full-Timers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 10:20 PM   #6
Moderator Emeritus
 
DriVer's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Coastal Campers
Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
Blog Entries: 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full-Timers View Post
Jim, these are the rubber strips that came off my original shroud and I put them back on the new one.
I am having one heck of a time with the SGII temperature fluctuations and my fan clutch is not working as designed. I think found the problem.

The L/S dam is in place that goes between the shroud and the cool pack. (Previously shown upstream) So here's the problem, the R/S piece was completely missing. So I see myself as getting a ton of bleed air from the side of the shroud rather than through the cool pack.

I had some slideout sealing rubber that I had left over and cut and fit 2 pieces and layered one on top of the other which I offset on the width by about 3/4s of an inch. So now the piece I made is wider and spans the gap. This rubber stock has a self adhesive "hi-tack" strip which I pressed on the sandwich piece. So now the dam I made is wider being almost 2 1/2". I cleaned the shroud with alcohol and then dried it up. I pulled the paper off of the tack strip and stuck a 9 inch long piece on the lower side and then a cut a second piece about 10 inches long for ther top shroud.

I installed the dams (2) using the tacky strip onto the shroud and the width of the air dam reaches over to the tank and it looks like it will completely block the flow. Just to make sure that the dam will stay in place I used a number of Eternabond samples and overlapped the dam rubbers and stretched about 1 inch of EB onto the shroud. Once the EB is in place I don't expect that the dam will move.


The back of the radiator is in clear sight and the shroud is open to accepting bleed air. This reduces the effectiveness of your cool pack significantly. The clutch fan won't work right and the temperatures will get jacked. The screws were installed when the last separation occurred. Gorilla tape in foreground is taped over the hole in the lower shroud.


The white tape is the back of the Eternabond sample strip. I cut a 10 inch and a 9 inch piece. Although the rubber has hi tack already a little help from some Eternabond will surely help hold the dam pieces in place. Note how much of the hole (opening) has been covered with my hand made dam. (nearly all)


I cut and hand crafted the rubber pieces with a linoleum knife. The segments flank the seam on the shroud. Shortly after this picture was taken a scrap piece of Eternabond was applied to span the open joint in the middle. It ain't purdy - but I hope the fix works.

I am hoping that I will see benefit from this temporary fix on my way up to Bethpage for the National Rally. I expect a loud and aggressive clutch up from the fan and low temperatures. I certainly I will report back on this. The dams are only held on by sticky tape and Eternabond. If it works I will have to screw in a couple of small screws and flat-washers through the dam and into the shroud . A mechanical connection is always more reliable.

--> This is Post # 19,000 <--
(just another day at the office)
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
DriVer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 11:05 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Full-Timers's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Rexhall Owners Group
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Everywhere,USA
Posts: 1,518
DriVer, it will be interesting to see how much difference it makes.
Nice job!
__________________
Full-Timers
in a
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W22 Workhorse
Full-Timers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2011, 09:20 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
National RV Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,502
Driver, nice job. You will see positive results from your repair. I did the same thing this summer using similar materials. The results were outstanding and passed the test here where we see 110F+ Many days.
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342, W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus, Scan Gauge II.. 2004 Jeep Liberty, Blue-Ox Adventa..
M&EM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2011, 11:08 AM   #9
Moderator Emeritus
 
DriVer's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Coastal Campers
Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
Blog Entries: 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by M&EM View Post
Driver, nice job. You will see positive results from your repair. I did the same thing this summer using similar materials. The results were outstanding and passed the test here where we see 110F+ Many days.
You know guys we all contribute to working solutions with our motorhomes everytime we put up these fixes along with reports on the results. We are all in this together and I am pleased to be associated with the group of owners that regularly participate here.

I have to say that your posts spiked my curiosity to check for the dam pieces and I found 1 missing. A "Ah-Ha!" moment for me which I hope will show tangible results. This BIG ol' Vortec works well when all the cooling resources are in place. Having all the, shrouds and air dams in place is critical toward "Cool Runnings!" Ya man!

I'm still running a 195° F thermostat and I am not totally sold on the idea of running a 180° unit yet. Let's see what type of improvement is realized with the shroud mod.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
DriVer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2011, 06:54 PM   #10
Moderator Emeritus
 
DriVer's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Coastal Campers
Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
Blog Entries: 70
Dateline ... Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina.
Carolina Crossroads Resort

.... and finally the results of the bold experiment are in!

Total Success!

Our trip to Bethpage started off quite routinely in fact the ride today of some 240 miles was quite uneventful including the normal readouts on the Scan Gauge II.

What was routinely observed in the past would have been temperatures from 220° to 230° with temperatures bottoming out infrequently within a few degrees of 212°s. The operation of the clutch fan was hap hazard and sporadic. Exiting the Interstate into a rest stop typically saw temperatures exceed 235° degrees as I watched the needle increment upward into the "Worry Zone!" Prior to shut down I would bring the RPM up to 2,000 RPM for more minutes than I had patience to count until the SGII registered under 215°. Meanwhile Roxy is barking at the door!

Today what I observed at 55 MPH were temperatures hovering at 211° from our start to the I95 Interchange in Latta, SC. Once on the Interstate, I resumed my typical cruising profile running 2200RPM at approximately 62MPH. The temperatures averaged 213° for most of the day. What I observed on average for the majority of our trip was routine cooling system operation.

As the motorhome made its way North in 85° temperatures the engine temps would climb to 215°-216° and on every occasion the clutch fan spooled up and brought the temperature down to as low as 206° to 207°. This predictably repeated all day long.

Exiting the Interstate at a rest stop, the temps were at ~213°. I pulled to a stop and the temperature did not exceed 213 or less and I was able to briefly idle and shut down a lot sooner than I had in the past with no need to rev and cool. Roxy was appreciative of this because she was able to outside a whole lot sooner.

The results of adding the blocking dam strip to the right side of the fan shroud is a complete success. Temperatures were typically low and more often than not observed under 212°. The operation of the clutch fan was on queue and it pulled the temps down.

In a word, the operation of the cooling system has been restored to; "Excellent!"

93,400+ miles and counting! This machine keeps getting better with age. I am also fully loaded to the hilt with cargo for the National Rally and pulling our Saturn Vue.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
DriVer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2011, 07:06 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
mfire1339's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Glendora Ca.
Posts: 1,588
That report sounds great to me. Tomorrow I will check my shroud condition.


Mike
__________________
2004 Monaco Monarch
Blueox, SMI, 1990 Wrangler YJ
mfire1339 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2011, 09:30 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Full-Timers's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Rexhall Owners Group
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Everywhere,USA
Posts: 1,518
Nice report DriVer. I know when my fan ate the upper fan shroud and I had to strap it to hoses and such, and the remaining shroud was pulled away from the radiator I ran a lot hotter than I have ever seen on my “idiot gage” and the fan ran more than not. It really does make a difference to have everything closed and tight.
Have fun at the rally.
__________________
Full-Timers
in a
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W22 Workhorse
Full-Timers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2011, 11:09 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Arch Hoagland's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clovis, CA, USA
Posts: 13,138
Do you guys with the gauges see much temp difference based on a headwind vs a tail wind?
__________________
2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD, W22, 8.1, 7.1 MPG
2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
Criticism is easier than Craftsmanship
Arch Hoagland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 12:41 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
edgray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
Quote:
Originally Posted by DriVer View Post
......What was routinely observed in the past would have been temperatures from 220° to 230° with temperatures bottoming out infrequently within a few degrees of 212°s. The operation of the clutch fan was hap hazard and sporadic.......
Today what I observed ......I resumed my typical cruising profile running 2200RPM at approximately 62MPH. The temperatures averaged 213° for most of the day. ........
As the motorhome made its way North in 85° temperatures the engine temps would climb to 215°-216° and on every occasion the clutch fan spooled up and brought the temperature down to as low as 206° to 207°. This predictably repeated all day long................

In a word, the operation of the cooling system has been restored to; "Excellent!".........
MIKE: Congrats on finding a solution to your temperature / fan clutch issues! I sincerely hope the results you have acheived allow you many more trouble free miles.

FWIW, my experience with my 2003 W-22, which racked up > 98 K before I sold it, did not routinely show temps like you are still experiencing.

Readings from my SG II commonly showed a normal highway speed temp of 200-202 with the A/C on "max", towing our Vue. Whenever a moderate grade caused the temp to climb and reach ~206-207, then the fan clutch would engage to create the fan roar that almost immediately brought the temps back down to 200. My clutch "always" cycled on at ~206 and off at ~200.

To be clear, I'm not disputing your numbers or trying to tell you that you must still have some issue. I certainly do not presume to know more about this issue than you! Rather, I'm just trying to point out that there apparently are ( or can be ) significant differences in the SOP from what are essentially identical chassis. I have no clue as to why or "how" this can be true.

I also want to wish you and all the others at the National a great time and beautiful weather.
Ed
edgray is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fan



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fan Hitting Radiator Shroud rickandcheryl Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 20 07-22-2020 06:58 PM
Upper fan shroud Full-Timers Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 30 09-01-2011 04:28 PM
Fan and Fan Shroud Lloydu MH-General Discussions & Problems 7 04-21-2011 07:43 AM
Fan Shroud YosemiteBobR Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 2 10-28-2005 03:11 PM
Clutch fan / shroud coming apart FDchief Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 11 10-06-2005 05:18 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:03 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.