First BIG trip, Oil change question

[RV 4 2]

Currently we have 1900 miles on our coach with the original oil from the factory. We are going on a 2500 mile trip towing a toad.
Question is, should I change my oil/filter, or can I get away with just a new filter until I get home. I thought the oil change interval was around 4K miles. I haven't looked at my manual in a while and my mind is going blank on the interval. If it is at the 4K+ interval, I figure I should be OK.
Any advice. ?

[RV 4 2]

Currently we have 1900 miles on our coach with the original oil from the factory. We are going on a 2500 mile trip towing a toad.
Question is, should I change my oil/filter, or can I get away with just a new filter until I get home. I thought the oil change interval was around 4K miles. I haven't looked at my manual in a while and my mind is going blank on the interval. If it is at the 4K+ interval, I figure I should be OK.
Any advice. ?

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RV 4 2:
Any advice. ? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>RV 4 2, Change your oil when you get back home - you'll be fine.

When you do get back, remember to change the external spin-on transmission filter at that time. There is a ring type magnet on top of the filter that must be retained. A chassis lubrication will also be required.

Check your oil before you start off in the morning and add a quart at a time. Normal consumption is 1 quart per 100 gallons of gasoline burned however most people can post better results than that.

Now that said - "IF" it is convenient for you to do so - go ahead and change your oil and lube the chassis. There is no such thing as changing your oil too much.

The published interval is 3 months or 3,000 miles. Once you change your oil you are going to want to reset your oil life monitor by turning the key to the "ON" position and pressing on the gas pedal 3 times within 5 seconds.

[Tom N]

The change interval is oil and filter at 3000 miles. Do the lube then also.

Since you have the original oil in, IMHO, I would have your oil, filter and lube before your trip. You'd then be good for 3000 miles.

I like to use a large truck garage. They seem to be cheaper than any RV service facility.

-Tom

[hamguy]

Considering it is the factory oil, I would change it and the filter. A $50 oil change done at 3000-4000 miles after initial is fine. Cheap maint.

[JCM]

CHANGE IT. According to Workhorse you will void your warantee. Look at this months Highways Magazine for a owner that did what you are thinking and voided his warantee.
Sounds like he dropped his oil pump or had an oil leak. I don't see how one can "total" an engine by going over 3000 miles between changes.

[hamguy]

I would love to see the full factual situation on that "voided" warranty. Lots of missing info there.

[oemtech]

If it were me I would change to Full Synthetic, add a 2 qt oil filter, lube the chassis check the front hub oil, check the rear end lube and check the rest of the fluids.

You may want to stop at an Allison dealer and get a tranny filter. They recommend that you change it at 5k and top off the tranny. I just transfer the magnet from the old filter, fill it with tranny fluid, Transynd in your case, and install the new filter.

JCM,

The 3000 mile oil change is a "manufacturers recommended" interval. The article does not say if the unit was used or new and if the original warranties were transferred. It also does not say if Workhorse or the Extended Warranty company denied the claim. I would suspect it was the extended warranty company.

Personally I think Workhorse owns this one as the customer called Workhorse for advice and they told them to continue the trip. It should be noted that Workhorse did offer to pay 50% of the bill.

It should be noted that IF Workhorse REQUIRED 3k oil changes to maintain the factory warranty the they would have to supply the oil and filter under the Magnuson Moss Act.

[RV 4 2]

Decided to change the oil anyway. Good thing I did because it was really BLACK. I also lubed the chassis while under there.
When we get home I will be calling an Allison place for some Transyd and a filter.
Dale, I may change to synthetic later. Did just standard Dino Oil this round. Besides, The fuel Filter setup by OEM is on my list after we get back too.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RV 4 2:
Decided to change the oil anyway. Good thing I did because it was really BLACK. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>RV 4 2, Having Black oil is not a bad thing. It's only proof that the additive package is working. If you would have tested the oil most likely you would have seen that it was still serviceable.

That said, good move on changing your oil before you long trip.

[JCM]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">hamguy </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
It does sound like a lot of info is missing. I don't see how Workhorse could not cover the failure if it was a mechanical problem. I suspect that these articles are edited for sensationalism and do not include all the facts.
I qustioned it as I had my oil pump shaft shear at 35,000 miles and even though it was 1 year out of warante. Workhores said that they had installed a bunch of overtempered shafts and picked up the repair costs. I did however stop the coach when the oil pressure warning came on.
I have never had a recall notice about my brakes. I have had all 4 burn and crack the rotors. I never received a recall for a Zerk fittingbut installed one on my own.