Flush brake fluid W24

[tmw188]

I was able to get to all except the outer ones on the rear. Yes the W24 has two on each caliper inner and outer.

[Switchflicke]

I had my wheels off about a month ago and I could only see one bleeder per brake unit. Was I missing something or are the Quad ?? brake calipers only on the W24 chassis
Thanks for the responses

Stan

[vettenuts]

Originally Posted by Switchflicke

I had my wheels off about a month ago and I could only see one bleeder per brake unit. Was I missing something or are the Quad ?? brake calipers only on the W24 chassis
Thanks for the responses

Stan

W24. Not sure what chassis you have, but the W24 has pistons on both sides and no slider pins.

[Shawn E]

Originally Posted by gbing

I'm wanting to flush the brake fluid on my 2005 w24 workhorse chassis. I see that it has two bleed screws and one looks impossible to get to without removing the wheels. Anyone do this yourself and did you remove wheels? I thought of buying a torque multiplier to break loose the wheel nuts. If anyone had service performed at shop, how much did they charge?

I paid $280 for the brake fluid flush at my local GM dealer. Most of the cost is labor as there are two bleed screws and they removed the rear wheels. They have separate service bays for heavy trucks as they do a lot of work on dump trucks, buses etc. I know the Service Manager personally and he is very fair.

[Switchflicke]

Shawn E Is your chassis a W24? or a W22?

Stan

[Shawn E]

Forgot to mention it’s the W24

[AKIQPilot]

So I have what seems like a silly question. I've read just about everything I can find on the brake fluid flush/change out. There is lots of good information on this forum and others. There is lots of good information in the Workhorse Service Manual and in the Bosch Hydro-Max manual. All of these documents recommend that the brake fluid be changed out at a specific interval for optimum brake performance and long life. What I can't find is the specific procedure for the brake fluid change out.

In order to get all the old fluid out of the lines and new fluid purged through the Antilock Brake Module, what is the proper method for brake fluid replacement? The two person "pump up and crack the fittings" method or the "Mighty Vac on the bleed screw" method. I can do either but I wonder if the Mighty Vac bleed screw method gets all the old fluid out of the ABS module.

I must be getting old but I can't find anything in any of the service manuals describing the proper procedure for changing out the brake fluid.

W24 Chassis, 2 bleed screws per caliper.

[vettenuts]

I did the pump the pedal method, but you have to disconnect the battery for this. I also pumped the master cylinder empty with a Miti-Vac and filled with fresh fluid prior to starting. There is a procedure for each wheel, as I recall the inner is first, then the outer and then the inner again. There is also an order for bleeding in the manual. Not sure you can completely purge the ABS without something like a Tech II to operated the solenoids.


I couldn't remove the rear wheels so I had a facility do the work. Short story, that was a bad idea. I gave them copies all of the manuals but I might as well provided them with blank sheets as they never even looked at them. Fortunately I was there to prevent the damage that would have happened had I not been there. Suffice to say I am not sure what I will do next time but I won't return to the place that did it before.


I am considering doing the rears with the wheels on since I can reach the outer bleeder with the wheel in place.


My other thought is we will be heading west in the next year or so and I might just wait until I can get to Brazels so I can get it done properly.


I used Castrol DOT 4 fluid, which replaced the Castrol LMA (Low Moisture Absorption) but maintained the LMA properties.

[AKIQPilot]

Originally Posted by vettenuts

I did the pump the pedal method, but you have to disconnect the battery for this. I also pumped the master cylinder empty with a Miti-Vac and filled with fresh fluid prior to starting. There is a procedure for each wheel, as I recall the inner is first, then the outer and then the inner again. There is also an order for bleeding in the manual. Not sure you can completely purge the ABS without something like a Tech II to operated the solenoids.


I couldn't remove the rear wheels so I had a facility do the work. Short story, that was a bad idea. I gave them copies all of the manuals but I might as well provided them with blank sheets as they never even looked at them. Fortunately I was there to prevent the damage that would have happened had I not been there. Suffice to say I am not sure what I will do next time but I won't return to the place that did it before.


I am considering doing the rears with the wheels on since I can reach the outer bleeder with the wheel in place.


My other thought is we will be heading west in the next year or so and I might just wait until I can get to Brazels so I can get it done properly.


I used Castrol DOT 4 fluid, which replaced the Castrol LMA (Low Moisture Absorption) but maintained the LMA properties.

Thanks VN. That's pretty much what I'm planning to do. I think you're right about the ABS module. Gonna need a tech 2 to completely purge it.

Disconnect chassis battery

Remove wheels

Pump the brakes and bleed the caliper.

Inner, Outer, Inner.

Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front.

Reinstall and torque wheels.

I did send an email out today to two different Workhorse Authorized Service Centers asking for a rough estimate on the cost of a brake fluid flush. I asked if they had a Tech 2 to activate the solenoids. One is in Havasu and the other in just outside San Antonio. Gonna be in Havasu from Jan through March and Texas in April. We will see what they come back with as far as cost goes.

[harleyjt]

Originally Posted by AKIQPilot

Thanks VN. That's pretty much what I'm planning to do. I think you're right about the ABS module. Gonna need a tech 2 to completely purge it.

Disconnect chassis battery

Remove wheels

Pump the brakes and bleed the caliper.

Inner, Outer, Inner.

Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front.

Reinstall and torque wheels.

I did send an email out today to two different Workhorse Authorized Service Centers asking for a rough estimate on the cost of a brake fluid flush. I asked if they had a Tech 2 to activate the solenoids. One is in Havasu and the other in just outside San Antonio. Gonna be in Havasu from Jan through March and Texas in April. We will see what they come back with as far as cost goes.

Would appreciate your sharing the responses you receive. I need to have mine done too.
jt

[AKIQPilot]

Originally Posted by harleyjt

Would appreciate your sharing the responses you receive. I need to have mine done too.
jt

Sounds good. I will definitely post it here. I'm guessing it will be close to $300. Maybe slightly less in Texas but not much.

[vettenuts]

You can also gravity bleed, it actually comes out a bit quicker than a car likely due to the height of the master cylinder.

I also wish they hadn’t outlawed the ATE blue brake fluid. Used that a lot on the Corvette because when you flush you could simply watch for the color change when you alternate flushes between the blue and gold.

[tmw188]

I couldn’t get to my rear outer caliper bleed fittings so they didn’t get done. Used two person method and kept refilling the master cylinder using dot 4 fluid. I didn’t know anything about disconnecting the battery? Had my brother help me he’s the 30yr mechanic in the family. VN you were able to get to the outside rear bleeders thru the wheel. Bled them couple yrs ago no noticeable issues.

[AKIQPilot]

Disconnecting the battery is just to ensure with absolute certainty that the ignition key doesn’t accidentally get turned on at any time while you are changing out the brake fluid.

The service manual states to disconnect the chassis battery.