Found Auto-park fuse

[frederick w]

The fuse box (2000 Flair, P-32) is under the dash, driver's side. It's marked A/A (for auto apply) 10 amp fuse. Hope I'm right. You have to run the seat back and then twist yourself in and downward to see all the fuses. I'm only 5' 7" and it's a ---
Anyway if you have to replace a fuse, have the jaws of life ready so they can cut you out of their and then take you to the nearest bone crusher for re-alignment after you're done.
PS: does anyone know if their is a second auto-park fuse anywhere? Someone said their might be.

Thanks for all the prior help

Fred Rubio from Pasco, Wa.

[max49]

I can;t tell you if there is another fuse for the Autopark; but I can tell you how to make it easy to get to that fuse box; put a drivers side door in

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by max49 I can;t tell you if there is another fuse for the Autopark; but I can tell you how to make it easy to get to that fuse box; put a drivers side door in ..

Max, I was told that aside from making it easy to check the fuse it also makes it easy to yank an engine.

[max49]

Driver, I'll reply to that in a diff, thread.

[oldusedbear]

What little we know about AutoPark fuse location: Usually there is a 10 or 15 amp fuse, driver side of the steering column. Sometimes up under the dash, sometimes nearer the kick panel. Sometimes labeled A/A for auto apply, sometimes #19, sometimes #11.

Additionally - - There is a large ~40 to 60 amp fusible link in the heavy wire that goes directly from the chassis battery to the AutoPark pump motor relay. The link is usually found close to the battery - - sometimes hidden behind the Intellitec power distrubution box - - up front under the utility hood, where the windshield washer goodies are found. I've never talked to anyone who has seen this link blown.

IF you have a blown AutoPark fuse, the parking brake WILL BE APPLIED. I would not be at all satisfied to simply locate the fuse and replace it. The source of whatever blew the fuse should be located. The most frequent villain is the Light Switch - - located on the back of the actuator under the coach - - passenger side on the right hand frame rail - - just aft of the tranny in the AutoPark Goodie Box.

More specifics available upon request.

oldusedbear@nwtec.com

oub

[tropical36]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldusedbear What little we know about AutoPark fuse location: Usually there is a 10 or 15 amp fuse, driver side of the steering column. Sometimes up under the dash, sometimes nearer the kick panel. Sometimes labeled A/A for auto apply, sometimes #19, sometimes #11. Additionally - - There is a large ~40 to 60 amp fusible link in the heavy wire that goes directly from the chassis battery to the AutoPark pump motor relay. The link is usually found close to the battery - - sometimes hidden behind the Intellitec power distrubution box - - up front under the utility hood, where the windshield washer goodies are found. I've never talked to anyone who has seen this link blown. IF you have a blown AutoPark fuse, the parking brake WILL BE APPLIED. I would not be at all satisfied to simply locate the fuse and replace it. The source of whatever blew the fuse should be located. The most frequent villain is the Light Switch - - located on the back of the actuator under the coach - - passenger side on the right hand frame rail - - just aft of the tranny in the AutoPark Goodie Box. More specifics available upon request. oldusedbear@nwtec.com oub

OK Rog.....and then if we understand you correctly and in the case of blowing the A/A or whatever AP control fuse, one should probably first check and maybe disconnect this gray switch which could very well be going to ground. This will turn on the light creating a false positive of sorts, but at least will keep the fuse intact and the brake unlocked until the switch can be replaced.

[oldusedbear]

Good follow-up from Trop 36. The light switch has a couple of quite different failure modes. The most common is that the switch contacts stick together and the switch is locked ON. In this state, it will keep the AutoPark lite ON all of the time - - as long as the ignition is ON. This is not good as it has the lite on constantly as you are going down the road - - which in turn, masks the operation of the RGS. If the Light Switch isn't bad, you can monitor the RGS as it turns the pump on or off. With a locked on Light switch, the AutoPark lite is locked on as well.

About ten percent or so of the Light Switch failures result in the short to ground - - which blows the fuse. As Trop suggests, just pull the connector off of the Light Switch, replace the fuse
and continue your trip until you can replace the switch at your convenience.

Be aware that there may be other reasons for the AP fuse to blow, but the Light Switch is the most common.

oub

[frederick w]

Hi
Thanks guys for the info.
1. Will the grey switch show signs of oil leakage before it grounds out? Or does it just go out?
2. Does the green switch always show signs of oil leakage before it goes out?
I'm a little slow at this but I'm getting quicker. I
have good teachers here on the forum.

Thanks!
Fred Rubio from Pasco, Wa.

[tropical36]

Quote:

Originally Posted by frederick w Hi Thanks guys for the info. 1. Will the grey switch show signs of oil leakage before it grounds out? Or does it just go out? 2. Does the green switch always show signs of oil leakage before it goes out? I'm a little slow at this but I'm getting quicker. I have good teachers here on the forum. Thanks! Fred Rubio from Pasco, Wa.

The bear knows best, but I had a green switch go out on me once and don't remember noticing any leakage after removing it. To see this while still in service would be even more difficult. I think what you'll find is that the light is ignored because it appears that all is OK until the switch explodes from this extreme pressure. Then you might see oil everywhere along with an empty reservoir. I haven't been that concerned with the gray but do carry a green spare and consider it foolish to be without one, no matter who might have to work on it.