Front End Question

[RattlenRam]

I have a 2006 Dolphin (By National) 35 footer. The front end felt like I was driving on Ice, so I had the roadmaster rear anti-sway bar and the safe-T-plus installed. Neather seemed to help much, so I am thinking of adding the Davis trutrac bar. My question is can I install the Davis bar and still have the safe-T-plus or does the sate-T-plus have to come off to instal the Daveis trac bar. I was told by a camping world employee that the only way to correct this problem was to have the rear springs reinforced, Is this true

[RattlenRam]

I have a 2006 Dolphin (By National) 35 footer. The front end felt like I was driving on Ice, so I had the roadmaster rear anti-sway bar and the safe-T-plus installed. Neather seemed to help much, so I am thinking of adding the Davis trutrac bar. My question is can I install the Davis bar and still have the safe-T-plus or does the sate-T-plus have to come off to instal the Daveis trac bar. I was told by a camping world employee that the only way to correct this problem was to have the rear springs reinforced, Is this true

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RattlenRam:
I was told by a camping world employee that the only way to correct this problem was to have the rear springs reinforced, Is this true </div></BLOCKQUOTE>When was the last time you were at Radio Shack and spoke to some that knew anything about electronics?

We have much better experts here and the answer to you question is you can install the Davis now Roadmaster (OR UltraTrack) front track bar on your W series without removing the STP.

IF the STP was installed correctly it should be anchored using the right side U bolts. The track bar on the other hand can be anchored using the left side U bolts.

About U bolts once they are installed and torqued they stretch. Using the U bolts again to fasten an additional piece of hardware is not advisable. Get a new pair of U bolts when you do the install and torque the bolts to the factory spec.

[edgray]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">When was the last time you were at Radio Shack and spoke to some that knew anything about electronics? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The last time I asked for help there, the sales associate actually attempted to read the package description to me. I told him I can read.

FWIW, I thought the rest of your answer was, as usual, very helpful and I learned something about U bolts too! Thanks, ED

[RattlenRam]

Thanks Driver & edgray for your imput to my question, I am a novice to motorhomes. I have always had 5th wheels,and I am still In the learning prosses on MH's. Is there any other info you can give on the wondering and skating of the front end on a workhorse W24.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RattlenRam:
Is there any other info you can give on the wondering and skating of the front end on a workhorse W24. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>The slight push that you may be experiencing while cornering at high speed or being passed by a large high speed vehicle is effectively controlled by the use of a 2 part system in which you have the first part. Couple the STP and a panhard bar like the UltraTrack for instance and you have a proven upgrade that will perform as you would expect.

The more expensive route would be to go with a Hellwig stabilizer bar which I understand performs well in both controlling yaw and roll.

I installed both the STP and TruTrac as a system and have experienced and appreciate the improvement in directional control.

The W24 is an excellent machine the way it is. Please make sure that there aren't any other issues with the motorhome prior to spending additional money to possibly correct a problem which may not be resolved by additional hardware.

[Jeepster47]

My suggestion is first check your weight distribution. Have all four corners weighed individually and that you do not exceed your maximum axle loads. Check the tire pressures per axle weight and follow the tire pressure info guide by manufacturer. Make sure wheel alignment and balance is correct. These items are a start before adding trac bars, anti-sway bars, stearing dampeners, and etc. Ask Keith Shomaker at Redlands Truck & RV, he'll tell you the same. Let us know how it works out.

[Full-Timers]

Check your tires for too much tire pressure.

[John-D]

I don't have the Safe-t-plus, I have the Blue Ox True-Center which does the same thing and goes in the same place.

I also have a Davis Tru-Trac track bar, it goes in a different place and there is absolutely no problem with having both on at the same time.

Results: Before modification: Trip to Las vegas, it was a relief to drive the towed as it was so much easier to drive.

After modificaiton: same towed was much harder to drive upon arrival... Now understand it's the same towed, no changes at all to the towed.

So yes, it really made the motor home easier to drive.

[Fred and Bonnie]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Full-Timers:
Check your tires for too much tire pressure. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

If your coach is on a W24 chassis, I can say with an 80% certainty that your front end is not close to its capacity, and if you follow the inflation on the data plate the tires are over inflated. It's best to get the coach weighed and follow the tire manufacturer's inflation tables.

Fred

[sal avitabile]

have you had it weighed at 4 wheels ,so you will know what tire pressure to use and if you are loaded correctly,start with the basics before you spend anymore money
Sal Avitabile

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sal avitabile: </div></BLOCKQUOTE>You're the man Sal.

[alvinc]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
The more expensive route would be to go with a Hellwig stabilizer bar which I understand performs well in both controlling yaw and roll. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I beg to differ, a sway bar will have little, if no, effect on yaw. Most sway bars that I have ever seen have drop links that keep the sway bar from affecting the yaw. Otherwise as the body sways, even with the sway bar, it will affect the steering, making the yaw worse.

The biggest contributor to controlling yaw on a leaf sprung vehicle are track bars, both front and rear. They control shifting of the RV box over the axles that can cause small steering geometry changes, thus wandering.

The Safe-T-Plus also does not control yaw, it controls front wheel turning moments coming from the road surface, which can feel like yaw.

Yaw is rotational movement sideways around the center of an object. There are three linear motions (forward/backward, vertical, and horizontal) and three rotational motions (yaw, pitch, and roll).

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by alvinc:
I beg to differ, a sway bar will have little, if no, effect on yaw. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>alvinc, Begging not required. Have you seen the Hellwig setup? Owners tell me that it does appear to work in both axis.

I'm thinking you didn't read any or all of the articles I wrote about directional control and solutions to counter forces imposed on our motorhome coach bodies.

A anti-sway bar in of itself is suited to control roll and little else. The Hellwig does roll control and more but I haven't driven a coach so equipped. I am told by owners who have had the device installed that their expectations have been more than satisfied.

I have seen where the Hellwig (Front bar only) is priced at 750.00 installed.