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Front Wheel Bearings
Old 08-30-2010, 03:34 PM   #1
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I have a 2004 36 ft. Kountry Star 8.1 liter Workhorse. About 30,000 miles on it. When and how often should one repack the front wheel bearings and is this personally doable?

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Old 08-30-2010, 03:45 PM   #2
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I have a 2004 36 ft. Kountry Star 8.1 liter Workhorse. About 30,000 miles on it. When and how often should one repack the front wheel bearings and is this personally doable?
afpoettcker, Sir, You have wet bearing therefore they do not need re-packing. You may change the fluid if desired however that is rarely required. As a brake recall is on a short horizon, I would wait until you have the campaign cleared and have the center replace your fluid at that time.

You can replace your fluid by jacking the front wheels, removing the plug on the side of the bearing cup and orienting that downward to the 6 o'clock position. Drain and restore the side plug. Remove the center plug and restore the fluid up to the fill line on the sight glass. You will need to use a 90W GL5 fluid. Restore the center plug by pushing it into place. Spin the tire a few times and allow the fluid to settle. Observe the level in the sight glass and adjust.

You can download the FREE 2010 Workhorse Motorhome Chassis Guide which details the process. Go to www.workhorse.com and look for owner's manuals on the front page. You need to be registered in My Workhorse to obtain the download.

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Old 08-30-2010, 04:36 PM   #3
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With the upcoming brake recall are the rotors going to be replaced regardless of their condition? If not a fluid/lube change will not be in the cards for the front wheel bearings.

Am I wrong?- something tells me you have an idea about what's going on-
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:27 PM   #4
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With the upcoming brake recall are the rotors going to be replaced regardless of their condition? If not a fluid/lube change will not be in the cards for the front wheel bearings.
Max, If folks show up at the service center with expectations of getting new rotors they might be disappointed "unless" it is found that the rotor has been collaterally damaged by the caliper. It 's always been like that since the Interim Notice was issued.

Now is it a "great" idea to buy new rotors and pads after 6 to 10 years of ownership? I think so.

If the rotors are pulled to replace or to resurface, new seals, gaskets and fluids will be required.
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:40 PM   #5
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Now is it a "great" idea to buy new rotors and pads after 6 to 10 years of ownership? I think so.
DriVer, are you saying the pads will not be replaced under the recall. I have never heard of replacing calipers without pads. Somehow it doesn't surprise me though.
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:23 AM   #6
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DriVer, are you saying the pads will not be replaced under the recall. I have never heard of replacing calipers without pads. Somehow it doesn't surprise me though.
FT, It is very difficult to support this subject without being questioned at every turn but what we should know about the 50901-C Bosch Caliper Recall is that it's just that, a "Caliper" recall. If I have an 7 or 8 (whatever) year old motorhome and I'm getting 4 new calipers, at the end of the day I leaving with all new brake parts if I can afford to do so.
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:59 AM   #7
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Gents,

I would suspect that the recall will be calipers only unless there is EVIDENCE to show that the pads and/or rotors are damaged from a stuck caliper per Workhorse guidelines. Flush and bleed the brakes is a maybe...

Me I probably will get new rotors, pads and provide them to the service center.
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Old 08-31-2010, 07:32 AM   #8
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Me I probably will get new rotors, pads and provide them to the service center.
That's not unusual or out of line. I've brought shocks to a dealer and they were all to glad to put them on for me.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:14 AM   #9
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Here is a copy of my rigs 1st brake recall accomplished back in '05. They put new rotors on then when the calipers were just rebuilt. There was no sign of heat or any other kind of damage visible when this recall was accomplished.

Also notice no brake fluid was included, but you know it had to be replaced.

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Old 09-01-2010, 03:49 PM   #10
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Thanks. Yes you are correct. The rubber cap/plug opens directly into the oil bath. Do I add enough oil to bottom of rubber cap/plug opening? Thanks very much. Art
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:21 PM   #11
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Thanks. Yes you are correct. The rubber cap/plug opens directly into the oil bath. Do I add enough oil to bottom of rubber cap/plug opening? Thanks very much.
Art, No sir not at all. Look at the sight glass and you will see a circle toward the edge of the cup. That's the fill line. If you fill to the bottom of the plug cap opening you will get fluid all over your tires and hub cap. Do not overfill.
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Old 09-08-2010, 04:51 PM   #12
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The manual calls for 90 wgt gear oil - I assume conventional. Is it ok to use 75-90 synthetic with the conventional just for a bit of top up?
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Old 09-08-2010, 05:05 PM   #13
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The manual calls for 90 wgt gear oil - I assume conventional. Is it ok to use 75-90 synthetic with the conventional just for a bit of top up?
I use Mobil 1 SYNTHETIC 75-90 in mine, not trouble at >98K. Ed

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