Fuel tank input

[TXredfish]

My motorhome input fuel line is rusting about 4 inches from the fuel input cap. I may attempt to sand off the rust and paint. I am not sure if it has rusted all the way through. Would any type of primer and metal paint work? Where the input fuel cap fits onto the fuel line is also rusting. Could I paint area this as well? Instead of sanding could I use a rust removal chemical? Would it be better just to replace that section of line or can this be done? Would it have to be welded? Currently I have a full fuel tank of 70 gallons. I am not sure of the best approach.
My motorhome is a 2004 Newmar Scottsdale/WH chassis.
Thanks for any help.............

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXredfish My motorhome input fuel line is rusting about 4 inches from the fuel input cap.....

TXredfish, I though tthat i would allow this post to sit there for a little while however after not having received any responses I would like to ask if you had a picture orf the line that you are speaking about. I can't figure out fuel input cap is.

[dieselclacker]

maybe fuel filler neck??

Dieselclacker

[Easyrider]

That's the way I understood it.

[Easyrider]

I would say "don't weld" anything near gas or a gas tank with fuel!

[ron55]

I am into fishing and boating and I can tell you that I have seen at least 6 boats with aluminum tanks leaking at the welded seams and the older fiberglass/epoxy tanks dissolve. All caused by E-10 gasoline. Does it effect steel tanks? I don't know, but I supect it will attack the welds. E-10 has causd thousand of $ in the boating world. E-10 seperates after 6 weeks and there is no additive that will fix that. You end up with a real low test gas and a lot of water. M/Hs sit alot like boats with some gas in the tank or full of gas. I look for more gas tank leaks and fuel problems.

[Max Hubrich]

TXredfish,

Go to a small local general aviation airport and it's FBO's (Fixed Base Operators) maintenance hangar. Buy a spray can of "aluminum oxide paint primer" (it's Army OD green in color). Sand the affected area down, tape the area off good and spray with the primer. Let it dry good (overnight) and then spray with a color of your choice.

The airport is the only place you can buy this product anymore--- that I have found. It will flat stop the corrosion problem. It's been pulled from the consumer's markets.

It works great on steel as well as aluminum-- something about the ingredients getting into the atmosphere.

Good luck,

[oemtech]

Back in the day, my Navy days, we used Zinc Chromate primer on the aluminum super structure on the ship (USS John S. McCain DL-3). You should be able to get it at most any boat store like West Marine.

Max,
I think your "spray can of "aluminum oxide paint primer" (it's Army OD green in color)" is the same thing I am speaking about.

[ron55]

the e-10 is eating the weld in alum tanks from the insided out.
the seperation phase is killing fuel injection systems on outboards. the old carb motors don,t have as much problem handling water
to repair a fuel injection on a 4 cylinder will cost you around $1500.
now i hear rumors of e-15

[Max Hubrich]

That's it Oemy---

"Zinc Chromate primer"

Great stuff----

[Capt Joe]

I've been in, on, under and around boats and various marine related activities since I was knee high to a grasshopper and one of the very best materials I have found for this type of application is a product called Por-15. I find it at a local paint supply store that caters to the auto body finish folks. Most towns have such a place that is usually associated with a regular parts house. Might have to just call around a bit to find it.

Por-15 is best applied to a slightly rusty surface to give it a 'bite' on the surface. I used to use Extend for this type of application but Por-15 beats it hands down. Of course, the metal needs to be structurally sound but as I said above, it actually works better with some rust on the surface.

It comes in a couple of colors and finishes...gloss, semi, matte, flat, etc...and you can top coat it with any color, finish, etc you want.

One hint is that if you use it and get it in a can, make SURE you put some plastic wrap over the can before you put the lid back on. If you don't and there is even a drop of the Por-15 in the groove on the can, you will NEVER get that lid off again. You will have to use a 'church key, to put a hole in the lid to be able to pour it out.

Try it, you'll like it!!!

Let us know how it goes.

Here is a link to the site: http://www.por15.com/

I just noticed that they have a kit for coating your calipers....Hmmmm, might be just the thing us Workhorse owners need when we get our NEW calipers.