Quote:
Originally Posted by Aldev
I have a 2002 32H Bounder on a W22 chassis. I needed a schematic for the headlight circuit. When I ordered mine sometime back, I thought that I had a complete set. I'm missing 2 pages. All I have is the headlights circuit, not the switch or the toggle switch for lo/hi on the steering column. I called Fleetwood and they don't have those pages. They did send a schematic but it doesn't show the complete circuit.
My problem was an intermittent driver side headlight on lo beam. The other day the passenger side went out. I have the DRL's and hi beams These work fine. I'm using a 9007 bulb.They work fine as I bought another socket and hooked both bulbs to a separate power supply on the bench. It turns out that both sockets on the mthm have about 10.5 volts for the lo and 11.5 volts for the high beams. I've replaced the switch on the dash but I suspect the lo/hi switch on the steering column. I didn't measure the DRL's voltage but they work thru the low beams and they are fine. I need the schematic so that I can check the wiring.
I finally added a separate switch on the dash and ran a separate 12 volts to the lo socket. I used the same ground as original This works but I probably won't be able to use the brights as I would have to switch both at the same time to get one to turn off and the other to turn on. It's kind of a pain checking this out as I have to crawl underneath and then go back into the coach to change the lo/hi settings on the column to check things. Also I have to contend with the switch light buzzer-- buzzing. Another thing is that this circuit uses a 10 amp fuse.
A side note is the DRL's won't work with the parking brake on. I needed the brake on to use the jacks to lift the coach in order to crawl underneath and work on this Problem.
Any thoughts or help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Al DeV
2002 32 H Bounder W22
Torrance Ca.
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You stated that there's 10.5 volts on lo, and 11.5 on hi. Were you using the pigtail ground for the bulbs? If so, connect your test meter to a known good ground (best at battery) and recheck. The issue seems to be corrosion/ looseness in the wiring to this point. I have had GM problems in cars that are similar, and installed an old time foot controlled dimmer switch on the floor to allow hi/lo operations. Use the power wire from the light switch to power the dimmer, this should allow the buzzer to go off. As for the DRL they usually operate the hi beam circuit at a reduced voltage for lighting, so can be left intact. As for your problem of the parking brake, look under the dash at the park brake pedal mounting area, find the single wire connection that goes to a switch there, disconnect it, and you'll be able to do what you wanted to do. Just remember to reconnect it as sometimes this is needed for other applications to work.
earl