Heater core

[Oklahoma MR C]

Our heater core on our 2002 Damon Intruder has a Anti-freeze leak now. We only have 28,000 miles on it but we have driven on I-40 in Oklahoma several times. Can any one tell me if the dash heater core came with the workhorse chassis or is a Damon add on. I'm wondering what the job to remove will be? and where to get another one if needed. Is it alum or copper like cars?

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oklahoma MR C Our heater core on our 2002 Damon Intruder has a Anti-freeze leak now. We only have 28,000 miles on it but we have driven on I-40 in Oklahoma several times. Can any one tell me if the dash heater core came with the workhorse chassis or is a Damon add on. I'm wondering what the job to remove will be? and where to get another one if needed. Is it alum or copper like cars?

The heater core is an OEM installed device and came with your coach from Damon. It is not covered by Workhorse.

[edgray]

before ripping into the system to replace the core, may I suggest you try some "Stop Leak" to see if that will eliminate the leak. It won't cost much to try. Ed

[TrekPR]

You want to be careful with the Stop Leak, it doesn't know the difference between heater core, radiator or engine. I know of cases where it has caused all kinds of problems.

[edgray]

I used "stop leak" as a generic term, didn't mean to imply a specific brand.

GM dealers sell a stop leak product that comes in tablet form, and I've heard the WCC National Service Director, Alan Stegich, recommend using them by crushing them into a powder form and pouring the powder directly into the radiator with the engine running and the coolant circulating.

Be sure you remove the rad cap BEFORE the engine warms up to avoid a sudden release of pressure, which could cause hot water to burn you. ED

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by edgray I used "stop leak" as a generic term, didn't mean to imply a specific brand. GM dealers sell a stop leak product that comes in tablet form, and I've heard the WCC National Service Director, Alan Stegich, recommend using them by crushing them into a powder form and pouring the powder directly into the radiator with the engine running and the coolant circulating. Be sure you remove the rad cap BEFORE the engine warms up to avoid a sudden release of pressure, which could cause hot water to burn you. ED

ED! BINGO!

... and then they recommend only using perhaps 2 tablets. When (then) new GM vehicles leave the plant floor you will recall, they would just stick 2 tabs in each system. It saved a lot of grief later on.

[dieselclacker]

I would add to the discussion, that you first assertain for sure that it is the heater core that is leaking. Quite possibly could be the inlet or outlet hose connection or hose clamp for that connection. Don't even ask how I know this!

Dieselclacker

[Clay L]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer ED! BINGO! ... and then they recommend only using perhaps 2 tablets. When (then) new GM vehicles leave the plant floor you will recall, they would just stick 2 tabs in each system. It saved a lot of grief later on.

They told me they used 2 or 3 for cars. I have the MotorAide option which means a lot more coolant is in the system and I used all six tablets.
Hope it wasn't too many.
It's been over a year so maybe it's okay. It did stop the slight heater core leak - so far.

[TrekPR]

Dieselclacker you are right on the money, as to the stop leak your comfort level is a lot different than mine. If my 8 year old coach has a leak I'm not going to use what I consider a temporary fix and have it give way 100 miles from no where in 6 months. I have completely by-passed a leaking heater core on the road. It will be a pain but fix it right.

[TrekPR]

Here is where I'm coming from. We had a department mechanic burn up a diesel engine in a fire truck because he didn't want to pull the radiator by using a stop leak type of product. It will fill more than just the leak.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrekPR Here is where I'm coming from. We had a department mechanic burn up a diesel engine in a fire truck because he didn't want to pull the radiator by using a stop leak type of product. It will fill more than just the leak.

Paul, I agree with you in regard to Stop Leak. My experience with Barr's Stop Leak pellets left much to be desired. I was fortunate in removing a lot of the stop leak from the tanks and we mechanically fixed the leak.

Always better to fix the problem than applying a band aid. Now in the case of a heater core that may cause the front cap of the motorhome to be removed - I would try 2 tabs first to see if it can help plug up the leak as an expedient BUT knowing that the core may still have to come out is the Damocles hanging over your head.

Was the mechanic afraid to pull the machine off the line ??? Isn't that what reserve engines/trucks are for? Just sayin' I think if the machine needed a repair on the radiator it should have been pulled. Fire garages do this type of stuff all the time. No sense in loosing a motor. That machine may have to sit someplace and run for 12 hours or more at a clip. No time to find a bad radiator once you've stretched out the hose bed and are feeding other machines or 1st in and have attack lines off.

[TrekPR]

Driver,

I think the mechanic was just lazy, didn't realize what the product would do and used to much of the product. The problem being that the product was sealing more than just the leaks.

I understand that the heater core can be difficult to get to as I had to replace one on our 98 Trek. I found it easy to cut the plastic heater box and remove the core, slip in the new and reseal the plastic with a combination of a hot glue gun and silicone. Looking back on it I think I would have just used the metal duct tape if I were to do it again. It was a whole lot easier than removing the front cap but of course every rig is a little different and we don't know until we look. Hopefully, Mr. C's problem can be fix easily.

Under credit where credit is do, I did not come up with this idea but read it on another web page.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrekPR Under credit where credit is do, I did not come up with this idea but read it on another web page.

trekPR, No single person has all the answers but if you look hard enough somewhere someone did it before.