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How do I get a bubble out of the coolant system
06-12-2009, 07:22 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Truckee, CA
Posts: 471
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I just changed my coolant and believe I have an air bubble. How do I relieve the air. Any suggestions. 8.1L W20 chassis.
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Greg & Lynn
'03 33V Itasca Suncruiser / Workhorse Chassis
Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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06-12-2009, 10:29 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Truckee, CA
Posts: 471
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Ok, I finally got the air out of the system by burping both the heater hoses and the upper radiator hose. All is good now, she runs like a top
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Greg & Lynn
'03 33V Itasca Suncruiser / Workhorse Chassis
Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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06-13-2009, 07:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Antioch CA
Posts: 123
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What do you mean "burb" and how is it accomplished? I had a friend of mine take his to a dealer and they had a heck of a time getting this bubble out.
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2003 Itasca Suncruiser 33V
8.1 GMC, Workhorse, Allison, Koni's
2004 Honda Element toad
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06-13-2009, 09:06 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Truckee, CA
Posts: 471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunnpe
What do you mean "burb" and how is it accomplished? I had a friend of mine take his to a dealer and they had a heck of a time getting this bubble out.
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I meant "burp", like you would your infant (if you like me can remember back that far!) I accomplished this by having a helper fill the radiator with solution while you work the upper radiator hose around the top of the thermostat. Don't take it off, just move the clamp up the hose aways so you can flex the hose just a little around the thermostat housing. then I did the same with the heater hose which comes off the "T" and makes it's way to the top of the block. Then replaced and tightened the hose clamps. Once I thought it was full, I ran the motor with the radiator cap off of it until the thermostat opened and then added more mix to the radiator. Then I refilled the coolant reservoir to about an 1" above the cold line, then took a drive. I left my heater control open the entire time. Went to where it normally does for operating range. After about a 20 minute drive at high and low speeds brought her home and let it cool. It sucked the rest of the coolant out of the reservoir. I refilled the coolant reservoir and drove it again. This time I replaced the coolant back to the cool line. Now I'm good to go
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Greg & Lynn
'03 33V Itasca Suncruiser / Workhorse Chassis
Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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06-13-2009, 09:11 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Truckee, CA
Posts: 471
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Hey Dunnpe, I forgot to say I was impressed with your choice of motorhomes. I love mine. Have just spent the last 3 full days with maintenance; fluid changes, lube, slide toppers, batteries and so forth. I am debating on tires but the shop tells me I am crazy, sidewalls have good flex, and no weathering visible. 23k miles on the clock. I may go for one more year with these (Michelin XRV). It seems I have done all the maintenance and more. If you need help with anything, let me know. We have great rides
Greg
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Greg & Lynn
'03 33V Itasca Suncruiser / Workhorse Chassis
Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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06-18-2009, 09:53 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Antioch CA
Posts: 123
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Hi Greg, thanks response. I just noticed your ride also after checking back on my question on burbing. I do remember that burbing of the child. Thanks for the explanation on how to burb the coolant.
Yes, our ride is just the best fit for us we love it. We have had it just 18 months and enjoy every outing. I really enjoy doing the maintenance on it and tickering with it. I have not changed the coolant or the brake fluid yet but after reading the last few threads I will have to get on it. Since its on my sideyard I visit it often. I love driving it.
I just checked out your profile. We have not taken the rig to Tahoe yet. I bet that last drop into the lake basin is a exciting in the rig, I remember doing it the car.
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2003 Itasca Suncruiser 33V
8.1 GMC, Workhorse, Allison, Koni's
2004 Honda Element toad
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08-17-2009, 04:13 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Posts: 9
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I have a 2004 Southwind 32V on a Workhorse chassis wirh 43000 miles. Getting ready to change coolant and trying to decide whether to backflush, flush or just change coolant by draining radiator and block if there is no crud in drained coolant. Also do not know if I should change radiator hoses. Changing hoses appears to be fairly difficult because of limited access.
Any info would be appreciated..
Jim Ross
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08-17-2009, 05:28 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Commercial Member
Newmar Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 3,792
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Check my web site for what I and others have done for coolant change. Oemy's Coolant Change
I burp mine by leaving the radiator cap off, set the heater to high and run the engine until it comes to temp. That will usually force the air out of the system. Let it cool and top off the radiator and overflow container.
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Dale/aka-Oemy Oemy's UltraPower Performance
Ultra Power'd/Ultra Trac'd/Magnum Plug Wires/AC 41-101's/DIY CAI/Koni's
2004 Mountain Aire MACA 3651-1997 Honda CRV - Toad
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08-17-2009, 06:26 PM
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#9
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oemtech
I burp mine by leaving the radiator cap off, set the heater to high and run the engine until it comes to temp. That will usually force the air out of the system. Let it cool and top off the radiator and overflow container.
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03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Allison UP Grade Brake, S&B CAI, Taylor Extremes, SGII-X Gauge
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
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08-17-2009, 11:01 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Truckee, CA
Posts: 471
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Jim, per my WCC service center, unless there is a reason to flush, just drain and refill. I tested mine with the strips, and coolant and boilover protection. Mine was like new. Changed it anyway. Per Goodyear, rubber is good for ten (10) years. That means at that point, all rubber needs to be replaced; serpentine belts, hoses, etc. You should have plenty of life left.
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Greg & Lynn
'03 33V Itasca Suncruiser / Workhorse Chassis
Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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08-18-2009, 06:27 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Commercial Member
Newmar Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 3,792
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If you go to the trouble of draining the radiator and block why wouldn't you take the time to flush out all the OLD antifreeze. Most shops have a machine to do it and it doesn't take that much longer.
I do mine every couple of years. Yep, maybe $30 worth of antifreeze and a couple hours f my time. Yes, I could use extended use antifreeze but then your on a 5 year schedule at best, unless you have it tested.
Remember, you will probably never see 100,000 miles in 5 years of driving. Does anyone put 20,000 miles a year on their motorhome?
__________________
Dale/aka-Oemy Oemy's UltraPower Performance
Ultra Power'd/Ultra Trac'd/Magnum Plug Wires/AC 41-101's/DIY CAI/Koni's
2004 Mountain Aire MACA 3651-1997 Honda CRV - Toad
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08-18-2009, 08:45 PM
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#12
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oemtech
Does anyone put 20,000 miles a year on their motorhome?
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You'd have to do about 384.6 miles per week all year long. That's doable but doubtable.  I'm clocking 81,000+ right now!
That's more miles than I've ever put on any vehicle. In regard to the 8.1L it hasen't even reached it's mid-life yet nor has it had a mid-life crisis yet either!
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Allison UP Grade Brake, S&B CAI, Taylor Extremes, SGII-X Gauge
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
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08-18-2009, 10:11 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Way down yonder, below New Orleans
Posts: 3,958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriVer
I'm clocking 81,000+ right now! 
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Slacker !!
ED
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Itasca SC 2010 37F on W-24 WB248" stock + plug wires vent kit added.
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