How much brake fluid for P-32

[max49]

I've never changed brake fluid in any vehicle I've owned. However with so many brake complaints on MHs, I'm gonna just do it. Is 2 qts. enough?
Any one know if either of these is worth buying?

Brake Bleeder & Brake Bleeder Vacuum Pump Kit

Brake Fluid Bleeder

or would I be better off bribing my wife to sit in the MH and pump?

And if I can talk her into it, do I need the engine running to have power brakes or do most of you do it with the engine off?

[oemtech]

Neither... I have both and the first one will take for ever and is a piece of crap.

The second one works but take a lot compress volume. I use the it to take the fluid out of the master cyl. It works great for that.

I use a modified garden sprayer to add the fluid back. I just have the plastic hose on the pump. I put the pressure gauge on there just to see what the hand pump pressure was. The valve is there as an experiment to use my air hose to keep the pressure constant. Both are not necessary or needed.



I usually get 3 quarts of Wal Mart's best Dot 3. The photo above shows Dot 4 but only because it was on sale for the price of Dot 3.

Bottom line... Con the Mrs into pumping the brake.

[Mr_D]

Just remember that a DOT 4 fluid may not be compatible with a DOT 3 system. Just because the number is higher doesn't necessarily mean they're usable in the system. You need to check with the manufacturer of you vehicle.

[kartvines]

Interesting, how did you add the valve and pressure gage and still maintain the seal needed to pump the pressure in the sprayer?

Quote:

Originally Posted by oemtech Neither... I have both and the first one will take for ever and is a piece of crap. The second one works but take a lot compress volume. I use the it to take the fluid out of the master cyl. It works great for that. I use a modified garden sprayer to add the fluid back. I just have the plastic hose on the pump. I put the pressure gauge on there just to see what the hand pump pressure was. The valve is there as an experiment to use my air hose to keep the pressure constant. Both are not necessary or needed. I usually get 3 quarts of Wal Mart's best Dot 3. The photo above shows Dot 4 but only because it was on sale for the price of Dot 3. Bottom line... Con the Mrs into pumping the brake.

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kartvines Interesting, how did you add the valve and pressure gage and still maintain the seal needed to pump the pressure in the sprayer?

It's a secret.... Naaah... just some O rings and washers.

[max49]

Thanks Dale, instead of spending $25 at HFT, I'll spend $60 at Red Lobster taking my wife to dinner.
Sure would have been nice if WH would have put the master cylinder where you could see in it, or left enough room to pour the fluid in, or at least a see thru or sight glass.

What do you guys think, approximately, maybe 6-7 pumps for the right rear wheel, and maybe a little less for the others, especially the front? Just a 'ballpark' figure would be appreciated, if you've done it the old fashion way. I don't know if I'll be able to see when the new fluid is coming out or the old.
Even though I have never changed fluid completely before, I have bled brakes, but it's been many years ago.

I always thought DOT 3, DOT 4 and even DOT 5.1 were compatible.
I bought 2 qts of Johnsen's Synthetic DOT 4 ,Technical Chemical Co, Clebume TX
That's not gonna be a problem , is it?

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D Just remember that a DOT 4 fluid may not be compatible with a DOT 3 system. Just because the number is higher doesn't necessarily mean they're usable in the system. You need to check with the manufacturer of you vehicle.

Dot 3, Dot 4 and Dot 5.1 are glycol based brake fluids and as such can be used interchangeably. Although its recommended that the system be flushed when switching between versions. The difference between the 3 fluids are the wet & dry boiling points and PRICE.

Generally speaking you will remove all of the fluid from the master cylinder and then add fresh Dot X of your choice. Then you need to bleed each caliper/brake cylinder to flush the old fluid from the lines, caliper/brake cylinder and to ensure that no air is trapped in the system.

Dot 5 is silicone base and should not be used with any of the other fluids. Dot 5 does not need to be changed on any schedule as it is NOT hygroscopic. It has the highest wet/dry boiling points and is used in race applications and cold climates.

[oemtech]

Max, your on the right track. Get-R-Done.

Besides the $60 is well spent.

[iRV4FUN]

Quote:

Originally Posted by max49 Even though I have never changed fluid completely before, I have bled brakes, but it's been many years ago.

Some have used a turkey baster to empty their fluid reservoir and re-loading with fresh fluid prior to a flush procedure. At some point you’ll see the coffee color go to golden. I’m guessing that you will really notice the difference given your fluid age.

From a previous post from VanDiemen23. He used a blue and amber ATE fluid swap. Trust but verify. “ATE makes excellent brake fluid, one variety of which has a blue dye, the other is amber. the idea is that you put the blue stuff in and pump until blue stuff comes out. Next time use the amber and you'll always be sure that the system has been flushed.”

Also, as I'm sure you know, start with the furthest cylinder (RR in my case) and work forward in bleeding process. Believe it or not, I had a Ford Truck repair shop hand me the keys with a peddle that went to the floor board all because they didn't know the order of bleeding and left copious amounts of air in my brake lines.

We P-32er’s wish we had Speedbleeders… Has anyone figured out a P32 part number --please share?

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by iRV4FUN Some have used a turkey baster to empty their fluid reservoir ...

Too painfully slow!