How to remove my axle covers.

LeeSoCal · 01-15-2010, 05:37 PM

Do I have to remove the wheels to remove the top hat axle covers? They are on Alcoa aluminum wheels and the top hats have an emblem on the end of top hats that are hex. The wheels are 22.5 inch.

Luv2go · 01-15-2010, 06:02 PM

Lee: On our Alcoa wheels, most of the chrome nuts are fake. Two of them are real and when you remove them the top hat will fall off. If yours are similar you should see a definite difference in two of the nuts (dimples, size, etc) 180 degrees from eachother. You will need an appropriate wrench to remove them, our coach came with one.

Good luck!
Stewart

DriVer · 01-15-2010, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeSoCal

Do I have to remove the wheels to remove the top hat axle covers? They are on Alcoa aluminum wheels and the top hats have an emblem on the end of top hats that are hex. The wheels are 22.5 inch.

Lee, Off hand I am going to guesstimate that you do not need to take the wheel off the hub in order to install a new bearing cup. I say that because the hub is located inside the lugs and there should be wiggle room there but I would have to look at mine to give you a better answer.

I can remove my hub cap however that might not be as easy with Alcoa wheels.

Why do you need to change the bearing cup BTW ... just trying to find out what the problem is.

Full-Timers · 01-15-2010, 06:50 PM

The hex part on my rear wheel hub covers unscrews. I use large adjustable jaw pliers and a rag to keep from scratching them. No need to remove the wheel.

DriVer · 01-15-2010, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers

No need to remove the wheel.

There you go! Thanks Full Timers ... U the man!

LeeSoCal · 01-15-2010, 08:37 PM

I was trying to install cross fires and TPMS. I could not figure how to mount the cross fire valve on the lug nuts because there is not enough room with the aluminum wheels and top hats. Then I decided to mount them on the top hats but they are not strong enough. Give me some ideas and thanks for the replies.

Whaler · 01-15-2010, 08:41 PM

Full-Timers picture is the same as my 2008 W/H chassis with Alcoa wheels.I had the inner tire valve extension sprang a leak,and got to watch my Coach-Net service at work.Get a big set of Channel locks,and use a rag to protect the chrome bolt.
I had Cross-Fires just installed,and mine are bolted to the center cover

DriVer · 01-16-2010, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeSoCal

I could not figure how to mount the cross fire valve on the lug nuts because there is not enough room with the aluminum wheels and top hats.

Lee, The CF is not mounted to the nuts. A hole is drilled in the hub cover and the Crossfire body is directly bolted to it.

born2camp · 01-27-2010, 07:11 PM

On my Crossfires, they are mounted via the wheel stud under the nut that holds the cover on and I haven't had any problems. They are a bear to get hooked up correct on the inside dual, but once done it's done. Mine came with 3 brackets, 2 for the wheel studs and one to mount to hub cover. It was just my preference to not drill the hub cover and one of the brackets fit fine.

DriVer · 01-27-2010, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by born2camp

It was just my preference to not drill the hub cover and one of the brackets fit fine.

That sounds good to me!

Full-Timers · 01-27-2010, 09:04 PM

I must be missing something. I don’t see the need to use the Crossfire device. In fact I see more potential harm than benefit. As I see it the Crossfire is a device used to keep equal pressure in both inner and outer duals on each side of the axel. It also provided one valve for both tires. I can see where this would be an advantage however, I see the potential to loose air pressure in both tires at one time causing a potential loss of control. The use of extensions on the tire valves also poses a week point in the system. I personally do not use any type of tire valve extension on my inner duals. I simply lie on my side and reach between the tires to remove my TPS and fill the inner dual through the hole on my Alcoa with a angled tire chuck and check the pressure with a similar angled tire gauge. Once I reinstall the TPS…No Worries.

DriVer · 01-28-2010, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers

I can see where this would be an advantage however, I see the potential to loose air pressure in both tires at one time causing a potential loss of control. The use of extensions on the tire valves also poses a week point in the system.

The Crossfire has a valve that shuts off the pressure in the event one tire blows. The remaining tire is only allowed to vent so much pressure before the Crossfire stops the flow through its internal valving.

Single point inflation has an advantage in that both tires are identically inflated. This more than anything is the primary benefit of the CF. In the majority of common situations it is impossible to inflate both tires to identical pressures. This imbalance of pressure more than anything causes one tire to overheat. The CF mitigates the pressure differential between the two so even if the pressure goes down a little both tires go down together. That's important.

With a 2 head Crossfire that Whaler has (I want one) you can place 2 TPMS transmitters on the CF. At the moment I only have one. From the seat of the coach my DW can check the pressures. So that's a good thing.

I do agree with you that valve extenders can be a 100% PITA. That said using the CF valve extensions, those are only screwed on hand tight and then turned about 1/2 to 3/4 turns to tighten the nut. Anything more that that may cause a leak. When you thread the valve extension on it'll get to a point where the valve in the tire will exhaust (hiss) and then continuing it will stop. Just don't over tighten.

I did have some problems with my CF so its not infallible. Last year right before we got on the road, I found that one of my tires was leaking since the gauge was "Black." I got a soapy solution in a spray bottle and soaked everything and found out I had a leak at the valve body where the hose comes into the CF. There is a retain plate on the valve body that hold the line in place. Removing that I went to NAPA and got a new small O ring and restored the line. It's been fine ever since. Now I'm looking forward to charging the other 3 O rings if they start leaking.

On the right side of my rig the CF on that side displayed moisture under the window and the flag inside the valve body was obscured. Right now the moisture appears to have dissipated and the window is clear again or much better than it was. I should use a dryer on my tank-less compressor but I haven't found a solution yet.

So the CF is not a cure all but I believe it's a much better solution that makes the process to assure correct dual air pressure "easy."

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born2camp · 01-28-2010, 04:25 PM

I was also skeptical about the valve extenders for the CF's but Driver hit it right on where if they are installed correctly, you won't have any problems. And Fulltimer, while you are on your side in the gravel filling air, I am walking around and just looking at the view window on the CF to see if all is good.

My CF's have the dual inlet that allows me to put a sensor for each wheel. After having these on for a few years, I can't imagine going back to filling individually.