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08-29-2007, 06:38 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 192
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We are on a 4200 mile trip and the last couple of days the ignition key hangs up at times and will not return to the "neutral" position allowing key removal, nor to the accessory position to allow jack/room extend operations. I have been able to perform those functions with the key in the on position (ignoring the alarms). After the next leg the key may work normally - going to each position with ease. Has anyone encountered this problem? Is there an easy fix
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2005 Winnebago Adventurer 33RV | 2004 WH W20 Chassis | 2010 Honda CR-V Toad
USAF Ret June 1990 | 42 years continuous Active Duty
49 States | 10 Provinces | 50 years RVing
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08-29-2007, 06:38 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 192
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We are on a 4200 mile trip and the last couple of days the ignition key hangs up at times and will not return to the "neutral" position allowing key removal, nor to the accessory position to allow jack/room extend operations. I have been able to perform those functions with the key in the on position (ignoring the alarms). After the next leg the key may work normally - going to each position with ease. Has anyone encountered this problem? Is there an easy fix
__________________
2005 Winnebago Adventurer 33RV | 2004 WH W20 Chassis | 2010 Honda CR-V Toad
USAF Ret June 1990 | 42 years continuous Active Duty
49 States | 10 Provinces | 50 years RVing
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08-29-2007, 07:10 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 173
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Try this; with the engine off and the shift lever in park, push the shift lever towards the dash. It should move about 1/4 inch and then you will be able to remove the key. Mine needs that occasionally and until I figured it out it drove me nuts.
Don't know if your problem is the same as what I was experiencing but it a free, easy thing to try.
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08-30-2007, 03:28 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Full-timers - Home is where we park it.
Posts: 2,477
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I have the same problem occasionally. Skipsor has the solution, although I'm not that specific with what I do. I usually just rattle the shift lever and/or shift into gear then back to PARK. It seems that the shift lever doesn't always go completely to the "home" position when you shift to PARK.
__________________
05 Allegro Bay 37DB W24//06 Saturn Vue V6 AWD
Full-timers...Home is where we park it. 
Check out our blog: Living Our Dream
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08-30-2007, 04:36 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 192
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Thanks
skipsor & Paz - I have tried moving the shiftlever, but not pushing it in. Will see if that works next time. Appreciate your responses - we're in Hardin, MT, headed for Glacier and then on in to Canada - Lake Louise,etc.
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2005 Winnebago Adventurer 33RV | 2004 WH W20 Chassis | 2010 Honda CR-V Toad
USAF Ret June 1990 | 42 years continuous Active Duty
49 States | 10 Provinces | 50 years RVing
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08-30-2007, 08:04 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Roving, Datastorm users 3192
Posts: 756
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I too have found running the selector through the gears and returning it to park helps. Sometims moving the wheel up/down a bit helps (Tilt Wheel, hold the release.
Very tight tolerance on one of the links, This is actually a good thing
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Nothing adds excitement like something that is none of your business.
2005 Damon Intruder 377W Radio Active as WA8YXM
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08-30-2007, 11:30 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 37
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The lock-up happened to me several times, a Workhorse repair shop said it is the shift lever not seating properly in Park. They adjusted it and --no more problems. Prior to the fix I just jiggled the shift lever until the key came out.
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08-31-2007, 01:30 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 192
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Skipsor - I tried your solution on yesterdays and todays legs of our trip -- and it worked great !! Ya gotta love this forum and the great help one receives. Thanks again !!
__________________
2005 Winnebago Adventurer 33RV | 2004 WH W20 Chassis | 2010 Honda CR-V Toad
USAF Ret June 1990 | 42 years continuous Active Duty
49 States | 10 Provinces | 50 years RVing
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08-31-2007, 04:48 PM
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#9
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,567
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Hey guys, I just wanted to add that a little dry graphite powder works wonders in an automotive lock cylinder. I'm not suggesting that this would be the solution regarding a stuck shifter but it's something that we should consider at some point in time.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Allison UP Grade Brake, S&B CAI, Taylor Extremes, SGII-X Gauge
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
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09-01-2007, 01:37 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 23
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Same here. Move the shift lever around while in the park location. Maybe someone from Workhorse can address this issue on future motorhomes.
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09-03-2007, 02:04 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 173
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J griff, glad I could help. I usually have the problems but never the answers.
Enjoy the rest of your trip.
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09-04-2007, 02:53 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Posted August 31, 2007 09:48 PM Hide Post
Hey guys, I just wanted to add that a little dry graphite powder works wonders in an automotive lock cylinder. I'm not suggesting that this would be the solution regarding a stuck shifter but it's something that we should consider at some point in time. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Please do NOT put graphite in your ignition lock. This is not recommended by the manufacturer. The proper lube for a GM ignition is a synthetic type. Also the teflon based lubes like Tri-Flow (also a synthetic)are very good. Speaking from 28 years experience in automotive locksmithing, I have seen the damage that graphite can do to a lock. It will actually "pack up" and prevent the tumblers from moving properly. It only takes 1 tumbler out of alignment to cause the lock to not turn.
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09-04-2007, 03:27 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers Pond Piggies Club Winnebago Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Hawthorn, PA
Posts: 3,779
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Do not use graphite if you have a chipped key. My Dad used graphite in his 1992 Olds 98 and it would not start. The dealer had to tow it to the shop and take the lock apart and clean the graphite out.
-Tom
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Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Hawthorn, PA · FMCA 335149 · W3TLN 2005 Suncruiser 38R · W24, no chassis mods needed · 2012 Honda Accord SE · 2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L
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09-04-2007, 05:38 PM
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#14
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,567
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Safeman:
Please do NOT put graphite in your ignition lock. This is not recommended by the manufacturer. The proper lube for a GM ignition is a synthetic type. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I used a product made for the Hillman Group called dry graphite powder on my Saturn lock cylinder which was binding something terrible. A small puff of lubricant and the cylinder was good as new.
Going forward I'll be more focused on getting the synthetic lock cylinder lubricant you suggested.
Still learning something new everyday.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Allison UP Grade Brake, S&B CAI, Taylor Extremes, SGII-X Gauge
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
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