Installed the Taylor Extreme Spark Plug wires

[FrontRangeRVer]

I have a couple of questions. Two wires in the new wire set had insulation jackets that were a bit longer than the other six jackets on the other wires....which spark plug do these go to, or does it matter?

I also removed and re-gapped the original plugs to .045 and had no problem removing the plugs or the old wires.

A problem....I saw a small antifreeze leak around a screw bolt/plug on the drivers side of the engine (freeze screw plug? between spark plug 2 and 3 on that side), and I tightened it a bit with my socket wrench...that concerned me....doesn't seem to leak now....still fairly concerned how come that wasn't tighter than it was....I could have tightened it more, but I dont know what the torque specs are on this plug, so I didn't force it tighter....

Anyone have any comments on the above?

[FrontRangeRVer]

I have a couple of questions. Two wires in the new wire set had insulation jackets that were a bit longer than the other six jackets on the other wires....which spark plug do these go to, or does it matter?

I also removed and re-gapped the original plugs to .045 and had no problem removing the plugs or the old wires.

A problem....I saw a small antifreeze leak around a screw bolt/plug on the drivers side of the engine (freeze screw plug? between spark plug 2 and 3 on that side), and I tightened it a bit with my socket wrench...that concerned me....doesn't seem to leak now....still fairly concerned how come that wasn't tighter than it was....I could have tightened it more, but I dont know what the torque specs are on this plug, so I didn't force it tighter....

Anyone have any comments on the above?

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FrontRangeRVer:
...I could have tightened it more, but I don't know what the torque specs are on this plug, so I didn't force it tighter.... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Mine was the same way and a quarter to a half turn should be plenty to keep the plug from leaking any further. Just keep an eye on it for the short term.

My experience has shown that there isn't any significance in the length of the jackets. They should practically all be the same.

[FrontRangeRVer]

Thanks DriVer!

[FullAstern]

My wires were close enough in length that if if there were any difference I sure didn't see it and I did look. 'Cause I still can't believe they were $150.00! (tired of hearing that, ain't ya) So far, no problems what so ever with them. I confirmed that I picked up .5 (1 half of 1 mpg) by changing plugs, gap and wires. This was on route of exactly 176 miles round trip. I have taken this 20 times back and for forth to the lake towing my sailboat.It has more power and runs smother/nicer...priceless!!

[wa7hra]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FrontRangeRVer:
I have a couple of questions. Two wires in the new wire set had insulation jackets that were a bit longer than the other six jackets on the other wires....which spark plug do these go to, or does it matter?

I also removed and re-gapped the original plugs to .045 and had no problem removing the plugs or the old wires.

A problem....I saw a small antifreeze leak around a screw bolt/plug on the drivers side of the engine (freeze screw plug? between spark plug 2 and 3 on that side), and I tightened it a bit with my socket wrench...that concerned me....doesn't seem to leak now....still fairly concerned how come that wasn't tighter than it was....I could have tightened it more, but I dont know what the torque specs are on this plug, so I didn't force it tighter....

Anyone have any comments on the above? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The problem of minor cooling system leaks was addressed by a Workhorse Rep at the WCC Club Rally in Hemet this spring. He suggest that we can go to a GM dealer and purchase a "stop leak" at the parts counter. It is a tablet tha can be crushed in a plastic baggie an dumped in the overflow tank. Cost about $5.00. He says this is the standard GM fix.

Bob, wa7hra

[Tenn.Vol.]

G.M. radiator "SEAL TABS", P# 12378254.
5 pellets treats 32qt. or 8gal. of coolant.
2 tabs go into ever Corvette before it goes
out the door!!!!Tenn.Vol.

[dieselclacker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tenn.Vol.:
G.M. radiator "SEAL TABS", P# 12378254.
5 pellets treats 32qt. or 8gal. of coolant.
2 tabs go into ever Corvette before it goes
out the door!!!!Tenn.Vol. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Wonder if Japanese automobiles require stop leak in the system before leaving the assembly line?



Dieselclacker

[John-D]

When installing the wires I assume that you will find two plugs that are farthest from where the other end of their wires go.

Those two get the long wires

Of course I have never actually LOOKED at that part of my rig with the portion of my brain that records what it's looking at so I can't be sure.

(May have to do that when I get it back from service)

It's in service due to a switch failure (Brake) 35 dollar part, Fed-Exed, supposed to have arrived Friday, did not, so the shipping is free, warranty though so it's all free.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tenn.Vol.:
G.M. radiator "SEAL TABS", P# 12378254. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Guys! Let's check this concept at the door with all firearms. I have revised my position about "Seal Tabs" No tablets allowed. In order "to fix a visible leak" that can be repaired with .03 cents worth of Teflon tape and a small amount of time proceed with the physical repair.

Tabs installed on the production line are to assist in sealing small crevices that may present some type of problem at some point down the road and may not be immediately visible.

The Workhorse RSM that I was working with suggested that it's bad judgment to attempt to fix a visible leak with a product as opposed to making the repair. The repair is always better!

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John-D:
When installing the wires I assume that you will find two plugs that are farthest from where the other end of their wires go.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>John, That dog just won't hunt. The 8.1L is a coil over plug ignition system and all the wires, all 8 of them, are coil wires! They are all the same length from #1 through #8.

[max49]

Driver, does this mean you no longer endorse 'Bars Leaks'?
I have heard of putting a raw egg or 2 in the radiator and when it cooks , it plugs up the leaks. one mechanic told me this was as good as any of the stop leak products.

[dieselclacker]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by DriVer:

Workhorse RSM that I was working with suggested that it's bad judgment to attempt to fix a visible leak with a product as opposed to making the repair. The repair is always better!


I'll buy that!

Dieselclacker

[dieselclacker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by max49:
Driver, does this mean you no longer endorse 'Bars Leaks'?
I have heard of putting a raw egg or 2 in the radiator and when it cooks , it plugs up the leaks. one mechanic told me this was as good as any of the stop leak products. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Max, I thought you were old enough to know that the best fix is from the kitchen,but not eggs, its Black Pepper, or cornmeal.



Dieselclacker