Community Forums

Freddy · 09-10-2006, 02:27 PM

I bought an Ultra Guard rock guard as well as the angle iron to install it. My spare tire is in the rear, and I believe that the only two places that I can easily install the angle is at the bumper, or ahead of the spare tire rack.

I'd appreciate any tips on where and how to attach the angle iron under the coach.

Freddy · 09-10-2006, 02:27 PM

I bought an Ultra Guard rock guard as well as the angle iron to install it. My spare tire is in the rear, and I believe that the only two places that I can easily install the angle is at the bumper, or ahead of the spare tire rack.

I'd appreciate any tips on where and how to attach the angle iron under the coach.

ghamblen · 09-10-2006, 03:27 PM

Freddy - They mounted mine on the back approximately 2 inches off the ground. In my opinion that is too low. I would mount it approximately 4 inches off the ground so it doesn't drag as much going across driveways and would be less likely to pick up debris and throw it towards the toad. If you mount it in front of the spare tire mount you could probably mount it lower than 4 inches and it would be just fine.

Bob (WA0MQE) · 09-10-2006, 05:40 PM

I installed my Ultra Guard (with angle iron) by hanging it from the two rails that attach the tow bar to the rear frame rails.

I drilled a hole in each frame piece and used those chain type links that have the threaded sleeve. Drilled holes in the angle iron bracket to match the holes in the frame pieces and attached via the links. It works really well. By using different size links, you can adjust the height to some degree.

Freddy · 09-11-2006, 12:25 AM

Thanks for the ideas, Fellows! I saw several different mounts at a WIT outing this past weekend, and all had been "professionally" mounted. None of the coaches I saw however had a spare tire rack like mine [strange!]. Some guards were 4" of more off the ground while others were dragging.

I measured my distance from rail to ground and it was 20" so that's the one I purchased.

The idea of using the threaded links to suspend the guard is one I hadn't considered, and like it a lot.

Paulin · 09-11-2006, 09:21 AM

I origionally attached our ullta guard using the supplied angle iron bolted to the frame rails. But, somehow, the outer end of the angle iron contacted some fixed object, probably at a gas station, and bent the angle iron back a ways.

I now have the ultra guard "sandwiched" between 2 pieces of 1/4" by 1 and 1/2" steel strips and hung the assembly from the hitch receiver bracing. I trimmed the ultra guard to keep it about 4" off the road when the coach is level. I drilled twice the number of holes thru the "sandwich" and used grade 8 fasteners. The attachment to the hitch receiver required drilling a hole through each brace and then using heavy duty carabiners, swivels, etc. bought at a local hardware store. I used nylock nuts on the bolts thru the sandwich and wherever possible, I safety wired the swivles, etc.

Paul

Joe Gilbert · 09-12-2006, 02:13 PM

Make sure you always have 4" or more of clearance from the rock guard to the ground (worse case, with the RV fully loaded). I had set mine to 3" and all was OK until I drove some freshly graded roads in Alaska (at times we had to drive over perhaps a 6" pill of gravel as we were directed from one side of the road to the other in construction zones). I did more damage to my Jeep TOAD in a few miles than I had done in the previous 6,000 miles because 3" of clearance was not enough and the rock guard became a rock launcher.

After my problems I did some web research and found that "real Alaska RVers" use mud flaps behind the wheels and never a rock guard as the rock guards do more harm than good.

I guess rock guards are ok if you travel only on asphalt.

Freddy · 09-13-2006, 12:34 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Joe Gilbert:
Make sure you always have 4" or more of clearance from the rock guard to the ground (worse case, with the RV fully loaded). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well, I measured clearance before buying mine, and it measured a tad over 20". So, I bought one for 20" and it's about 5" too long, and I'll have to cut it.

Any suggestions on where to cut; e.g., top or bottom? If from the top that means I have to take out all the bolts.

FWIW, none of the holes in the guard matched up with the pre-drilled holes in the angle iron that I purchased with it. The thin aluminum dressimg bends easily, and the sticky backing used to attach the reflectors to the aluminum is not very effective. I haven't even driven the MH yet, and the reflectors are already popping off.

Guess that comes with trying to get by without spending an arm and a leg for a simple rock guard.

FloraBama · 09-14-2006, 04:00 PM

I had to cut several inches off mine and I removed it from the top. If you cut off the bottom the reflectors will be pushed to the bottom unless of course you "redrill" the reflectors also.

Installation of the rubber flap seemed like a easy job but it was acually pretty labor entensive since I ended up cutting mine "twice"!!

Paulin · 09-15-2006, 07:28 AM

We cut the ultra guard at the top. This also addresses the hole alignment issue.

Freddy · 09-16-2006, 02:53 PM

I cut mine from the bottom, mainly to get rid of those cheap reflectors.

It took three times to get it right, but with the help of my wife, we finally got it. I first installed it by bolting angle to underside of chassis.

After cutting it I decided I'd try someone's suggestion and use threaded links to hang it. Then it was too long again! Third time was the charm. We bolted the angle back in the original position without the links and it's just right!