Is Chirping Sound Water Pump?

[iRV4FUN]

Since 2005 my 8.1L suddenly developed a chirping sound. When fully warm it's gone.

Numerous phone calls have been placed and phone diagnoses have been given as the Serpentine belt. WH of course does not cover belts...

Now the noise lasts longer and rapidly increases with aceleration. Now I'm losing radiator fluid (one full resivor per 140 miles!!!) and I can visualy see staining on the lower radiator hose comming from the Water pump area. The rest of the cooling system looks good.

In Febuary 2007 my warranty expired and Workhorse says they may consider it "if" it is an on going problem relating to my chirping sound?

My problem is my local WH repair shop is worthless and I need to travel 40 miles to the next one. Rather then driving extra miles on a cooling system that is failing and just for a hope that WH will cover this -- I'd rather take it to a local, reliable, and honest non-WH repair shop and get-R-done.

Obviously the Serp belt could be the problem as a pully starts to move-around due to a bearing failure. Keep in mind that I only have 6500 miles and I store my rig indoors. Add to that alittle Dex-cool and I suppose the serp belt will chirp.

My question is simply this: Is WorkHorse the kind of company that will stand behind this or do they try to wiggle?

2003 Daybreak
P32 WH
Vortec 8.1L
Wisconsin

[iRV4FUN]

Since 2005 my 8.1L suddenly developed a chirping sound. When fully warm it's gone.

Numerous phone calls have been placed and phone diagnoses have been given as the Serpentine belt. WH of course does not cover belts...

Now the noise lasts longer and rapidly increases with aceleration. Now I'm losing radiator fluid (one full resivor per 140 miles!!!) and I can visualy see staining on the lower radiator hose comming from the Water pump area. The rest of the cooling system looks good.

In Febuary 2007 my warranty expired and Workhorse says they may consider it "if" it is an on going problem relating to my chirping sound?

My problem is my local WH repair shop is worthless and I need to travel 40 miles to the next one. Rather then driving extra miles on a cooling system that is failing and just for a hope that WH will cover this -- I'd rather take it to a local, reliable, and honest non-WH repair shop and get-R-done.

Obviously the Serp belt could be the problem as a pully starts to move-around due to a bearing failure. Keep in mind that I only have 6500 miles and I store my rig indoors. Add to that alittle Dex-cool and I suppose the serp belt will chirp.

My question is simply this: Is WorkHorse the kind of company that will stand behind this or do they try to wiggle?

2003 Daybreak
P32 WH
Vortec 8.1L
Wisconsin

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by iRV4FUN:
In February 2007 my warranty expired and Workhorse says they may consider it "if" it is an on going problem relating to my chirping sound? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Workhorse is a rather large company, do you have the name of a point of contact? If WCC (the person) told you they would consider it, I would move on this as quickly as possible. You are indeed out of warranty.<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I'd rather take it to a local, reliable, and honest non-WH repair shop and get-R-done. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I don't often see dishonest service centers however if you do go to a shop on your own be prepared to go out of pocket. It may be worth it to you if it gives you some degree of comfort.<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Keep in mind that I only have 6500 miles and I store my rig indoors. Add to that alittle Dex-cool and I suppose the serp belt will chirp. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>There-in lies the problem. A 2003 coach with "only" 6500 miles. That's unconscionable and an abuse of good hardware. In the motorhome RV'ing business the mantra is; "Use it Or Loose It!" Apparently you didn't get that memo.

On my 2003 I have close to 60,000 miles and I have little if any drips, leaks or errors. I just repaired a l/r outside wheel seal however after all that mileage the engine is still tight as a drum.

I would try 1 or 2 GM stop leak tablets to stop the leak and then I would go where ever I needed to go.<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">My question is simply this: Is Workhorse the kind of company that will stand behind this or do they try to wiggle? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>If they said they would fix it, they will fix it and there's no wiggle. I would try to get it to an authorized shop as soon as possible.

[Oemtech]

It sounds like a water pump to me. I would suspect the the water is leaking out of the weep hole on the pump.

[dieselclacker]

A Stant radiator cap pressure pump can be used to pressure the system at stand still, and pin point where your coolant loss is from. Externally it will likely be either coolant hose, loose hose clamp, or water pump weep hole. Could also be pin hole or crack in radiator itself, tho not likely with the low miles on unit. Coolant blown or dripping on serpentine belt can cause "chirp"

Good luck

Dieselclacker

[Full-Timers]

A agree with Dieselclacker. Coolant on a belt can be the cause of the chirping and the leak can be as simple as a hose clamp. The problem is, the belt is contaminated and should be replaced. This can be an expensive repair. I would top off the coolant and drive the 40 miles to get it fixed (possibly under warranty).

[iRV4FUN]

Just completed pressure test and nothing found leaking? Are there other places to look for source of fluid loss?

For example the intake manifold or the exhaust manifold studs or at a pipe plug in the cylinder head behind the exhaust manifold. Coolant would evaporate if the pipe plug is seeping.

I have oil seepage around the front part of my valve covers.

Still don't understand the staining on lower radiator hose.

Any suggestions?

[TandW]

iRV4FUN; test it when hot. Check very edge of hoses, as sometimes a hose's inner ply has been damaged during fitment and then fluid will wick out to the end via the cording or webbing. One of the most likely areas for coolant leakage is the water-neck or engine thermostat housing. I have seen hoses that do not leak until they have been moved from a point of contact that is under tension. An example would be a thumb over a shaken bottle of pop.It is also entirely possible for the water pump seal to leak only when the engine is running. Where are you adding coolant? Make sure level in overflow bottle rises during warm-up from a dead cold start, then check it again when it is dead cold. Make sure overflow tube from radiator fill neck to overflow bottle has no holes, is not dry-rotted and cracked, and fits snugly onto the hose barbs. Consider clamping these connections if they aren't already. Bear in mind that you will probably not see coolant leaking downward onto the serpentine belt. It more likely is blowing onto it during operation. The belt can squeal on its own account when it stretches and becomes glazed and brittle. Turn on everything you can and if the belt sings louder its time to replace it. Buy and carry a spare while your at it. When my dash air went out recently the departing clutch plate cut the belt. Good luck!!

[dieselclacker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by iRV4FUN:
Just completed pressure test and nothing found leaking? Are there other places to look for source of fluid loss?

For example the intake manifold or the exhaust manifold studs or at a pipe plug in the cylinder head behind the exhaust manifold. Coolant would evaporate if the pipe plug is seeping.

I have oil seepage around the front part of my valve covers.

Still don't understand the staining on lower radiator hose.

Any suggestions? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

iRV4FUN, how long did you leave the pressure applied to the cooling system? Did the gauge show a loss of pressure? Pump the system until the gauge reads 17-20 PSI when the system is COLD. Hose connections in my experience, and waterpump seals, tend to show leakage when cold due to contraction of metal at colder temperatures, causing a looser connection. True waterpump seals can leak while pump is moving, this is usually due to excessive wear of pump bearings due to higher mileage. As a last thought, you could be experiencing, internal loss of coolant, ie cracked cylinder head , or gasget, lets hope not. In any case leave the pressure applied, for as long as it takes to determine if the pressure is dropping. Should be done COLD. Also make sure your pump is holding pressure, so you do not get a false drop in pressure.

Dieselclacker

Dieselclacker

[iRV4FUN]

Thanks for all your great knowledge, input, and help!

Seepage at the exhaust manifold studs or at a pipe plug in the cylinder head behind the exhaust manifold has been reported on 8.1L engines. A few of the studs and pipe plugs that go into the water jacket were not properly sealed. A slow loss of fluid is how these leaks are detected. The coolant goes out the exhaust when studs are seeping and is evaporated by the manifold heat when the pipe plug is seeping. It has been reported that commercial Coolant Stop Leak will normally solve this seepage problem. After all possibilities have been exhausted I'm willing to try this.

What do you think?

[TandW]

Let's back up to your original statement where you say you lose "one full reservoir in 140 miles". Coolant overflow bottles have "hot" and "cold" level marks or lines that are much closer to the bottom of the bottle. I don't think mine holds as much as two pints even, when the engine is cold. If your filling the "reservoir" or overflow bottle, then, as the engine warms up and the now warmer coolant has expanded it is now overflowing out of the "reservoir" or overflow bottle. I would guess the overflow tube attached to the cap is positioned where the overflow can be sucked right through the cool pack and onto the belt. And so after all this has happened you check the coolant level when things are cold again and feel you must "fill" the reservoir again. I hope it's really just this simple for you and that you may only need a belt if it has become glazed. Again, good luck!!

[iRV4FUN]

Good point T&W. I'm not filling it "full"�.

Believe me, I hope this is something simple.

I need to look at the heating system as the body builder installed my AC unit with two parts in the wrong direction. After several hundred dollars out of my pocket, I now have cold air. So maybe they wrongly installed or failed to tighten a hose on my heater.

As far as I can tell I'm losing fluid @ 1.6 ounces per 10 miles. My last trip to the repair shop was 50 miles and I put 16 oz. of coolant mixture in the reservoir. I estimate that after my 50 mile trip I lost 8 oz.. When I added the 16 oz. it was just above the black tube at the bottom of the reservoir. Yes, it was slightly above the cold mark after I added the fluid. When I finished the 50 miles (HOT) the reservoir was below the cold mark.

Workhorse repair placed pressure @18 lb and held it for 15 minutes with no leaks in whole system.

They inspected my intake manifold (outside) and found nothing.

I'll get a new belt tomorrow.

Happy Trails...

[dieselclacker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by T&W:
Let's back up to your original statement where you say you lose "one full reservoir in 140 miles". Coolant overflow bottles have "hot" and "cold" level marks or lines that are much closer to the bottom of the bottle. I don't think mine holds as much as two pints even, when the engine is cold. If your filling the "reservoir" or overflow bottle, then, as the engine warms up and the now warmer coolant has expanded it is now overflowing out of the "reservoir" or overflow bottle. I would guess the overflow tube attached to the cap is positioned where the overflow can be sucked right through the cool pack and onto the belt. And so after all this has happened you check the coolant level when things are cold again and feel you must "fill" the reservoir again. I hope it's really just this simple for you and that you may only need a belt if it has become glazed. Again, good luck!! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

T&W, I was thinking along these lines also, Good point.

Dieselclacker

[iRV4FUN]

Thanks, T&W and Dieselclacker,

My coolant level has never been above the Hot level mark -- ever. I think I'm aware of what the COLD and HOT level is, is. I hope I'm not developing a cognitive problem... I admit that I spent way to much time working on air-cooled VW engines. So I'm looking for possible answers to what seems like a real problem. At the very least, GM is making a few bucks off my DEX-COOL usage.

So.... Let's start over from the most recent fluid loss explanation.

The COLD coolant in the overflow bottle was about 1" above the very BOTTOM of the overflow bottle -- almost EMPTY. This is way below the COLD marking.

I then added 16 ounces of fluid. This brought the fluid level about 3/4" above the COLD level mark. Suspecting fluid loss I thought this would give me a little more volume for the 50 mile trip to the Workhorse repair shop. If this extra amount of coolant overflowed due to expansion, it still doesn't explain why at the end of my 50 mile trip the coolant level had dropped 1.5" below the COLD level mark. If there was no loss of fluid it would have risen to the HOT mark.

How about the radiator cap? How often does Workhorse recommend replacement of the radiator cap?

2003 32' P32 8.1L Vortec