Koni shocks installed

[Clay L]

I just finished installing a set of Koni FSD shocks on my W20 chassis.

I thought a few things I learned might be helpful to someone else.

Rear:
The rear shocks for my particular model year (2003) have studs on the bottom of the shock and a through bolt and eyelet on the top. Mike at Brazel's RV had alerted me to that earlier so I knew to check before I ordered the new ones. Later model years have through bolts top and bottom on both front and rear.

The nut on the through bolt is a 28 mm and the nut on the bottom is a 24 mm. The 24 mm requires a deep socket. I didn't have a deep 24 mm socket so I used an adjustable wrench to remove the nut. The OEM shock has a 24 mm nut welded just above the base of the shock so you have something to keep the shock from rotating while loosening the nut. I didn't have a 24 mm wrench so I used a 15/16 SAE wrench.
The Koni shock has a shorter stud and a deep socket is not required for it so I could use my standard 24 mm socket on my torque wrench.

The stud goes through a rubber doughnut, the support bracket, another rubber doughnut and a thick cup washer. It doesn't stick out far enough to thread the nut on and I wasn't stout enough to push it out far enough. So I used the thinner cup washer from the OEM shock. That allowed me to get the nut started. After I had tightened it quite a bit I took it off and then there was enough stud sticking out to thread the nut on with the new cup washer. The nut requires 74 ft pounds of torque (that info is on a slip with the Koni shocks). I used a strap wrench to hold the shock while torqueing it.

I didn't have a 28 mm wrench so I used a 1 1/8"� SAE wrench to hold the bolt while I removed the nut from the through bolt with a 28 mm socket.

The nuts were pretty tight but I have a ¾ drive ratchet that has an 18"� handle so it was pretty easy to break them loose. They require 80 ft pounds of torque when replacing them.

Front:
These have a through bolt top and bottom. The only problem I had was the lack of space and the contortions I had to subject myself to. The driver's side was the hardest because of a wiring bundle that was clamped to the frame right in front of the top through bolt making access difficult. I ended up removing the clamp so the bundle could be pushed out of the way. Of course getting the clamp back in place was not easy and caused me to say shuckie darn several times.

The whole job took me about four hours.
I will have to wait until after Thanksgiving when we finish our visit here in Grand Junction CO and head for Bouse AZ to see how the new shocks behave.

[Clay L]

I just finished installing a set of Koni FSD shocks on my W20 chassis.

I thought a few things I learned might be helpful to someone else.

Rear:
The rear shocks for my particular model year (2003) have studs on the bottom of the shock and a through bolt and eyelet on the top. Mike at Brazel's RV had alerted me to that earlier so I knew to check before I ordered the new ones. Later model years have through bolts top and bottom on both front and rear.

The nut on the through bolt is a 28 mm and the nut on the bottom is a 24 mm. The 24 mm requires a deep socket. I didn't have a deep 24 mm socket so I used an adjustable wrench to remove the nut. The OEM shock has a 24 mm nut welded just above the base of the shock so you have something to keep the shock from rotating while loosening the nut. I didn't have a 24 mm wrench so I used a 15/16 SAE wrench.
The Koni shock has a shorter stud and a deep socket is not required for it so I could use my standard 24 mm socket on my torque wrench.

The stud goes through a rubber doughnut, the support bracket, another rubber doughnut and a thick cup washer. It doesn't stick out far enough to thread the nut on and I wasn't stout enough to push it out far enough. So I used the thinner cup washer from the OEM shock. That allowed me to get the nut started. After I had tightened it quite a bit I took it off and then there was enough stud sticking out to thread the nut on with the new cup washer. The nut requires 74 ft pounds of torque (that info is on a slip with the Koni shocks). I used a strap wrench to hold the shock while torqueing it.

I didn't have a 28 mm wrench so I used a 1 1/8"� SAE wrench to hold the bolt while I removed the nut from the through bolt with a 28 mm socket.

The nuts were pretty tight but I have a ¾ drive ratchet that has an 18"� handle so it was pretty easy to break them loose. They require 80 ft pounds of torque when replacing them.

Front:
These have a through bolt top and bottom. The only problem I had was the lack of space and the contortions I had to subject myself to. The driver's side was the hardest because of a wiring bundle that was clamped to the frame right in front of the top through bolt making access difficult. I ended up removing the clamp so the bundle could be pushed out of the way. Of course getting the clamp back in place was not easy and caused me to say shuckie darn several times.

The whole job took me about four hours.
I will have to wait until after Thanksgiving when we finish our visit here in Grand Junction CO and head for Bouse AZ to see how the new shocks behave.

[03HRVacationer]

I did the same thing this summer in the driveway. For me it was like driving a different coach, I hope you have the same results.

Enjoy the ride.

Al

[tropical36]

Clay....
What brand of shock did you replace...BILSTEINS... perhaps? Just so we'll know what your're comparing them to in your test report. Also... were the old ones wore out or not, which obviously would be a huge factor.

[Clay L]

The original shocks were not Biltstein but were the black OEM Monroe's that were used before they started using Biltstein.
I had the opportunity to have them install the Biltsteins under warranty but declined after I rode in a coach that had them. The ride was a lot rougher than I liked.

I have about 35,000 miles on the OEM shocks and I think they are getting pretty worn.
I haven't really noticed any lack of damping at driving spreeds but at very slow speeds like when entering a service station or RV park I seem to be getting a lot more side to side rock and roll.

[tropical36]

I put the bilsteins on, mainly for the cost and convenience while at camping world getting air bags replaced. I don't notice any stiffness, but then I'm on a super soft P chassis to begin with. What's interesting about sideway sway, is that I never have any of that unless I'm sitting still while traffic is whizzing by.
OK...we'll, let us know how they do you, once you get back out there on the road.

[fayrankin]

I would like to add my 2 cents worth that the Koni FSD shocks I put on the front only of my W-22 chassis made more difference in the ride that I could have ever believed. Expansion joints were like driving over a curb compared to how they feel now.