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Learning my ScanGage ll
Old 05-01-2009, 10:01 AM   #1
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Finally got my ScanGage ll hooked up

Since I'm not menu driven like the younger gereration I usually just hunt and peck

The main thing I'm interested in at this point is engine cooling temp. I started the engine and scrolled through the menu until I got to water temperature and watched the temp climb to 204 degrees and then it finally settled back to 195 degrees, no fans running. I'm assuming that 195 would be normal from start up and idling for several minutes?

I will get a better idea of operating temperatures this evening as we start out for a weekend camping trip.

Any other suggestion, and does my temperature look ok so far?

Thanks,

Ron

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Old 05-01-2009, 10:12 AM   #2
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Water temp is correct, Hunt up the ignition advance and check it from idle to highway speeds......
Tossing in fuel consumption is fun also...

Jim

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Old 05-01-2009, 09:33 PM   #3
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Ron, you are right on, mine usually runs at 197º.

Have you reviewed the walk through on Oemy's site? http://www.oemys-performance.com/sca...m#scan%20gauge
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:22 AM   #4
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You have a 195˚ in your 8.1.

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Old 05-03-2009, 07:20 AM   #5
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You have a 195˚ thermostat in your 8.1.

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OK I'm back
Old 05-03-2009, 03:09 PM   #6
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From this weekend camping trip, likeI said, I was mainly interested in the water temp, especially since I have been seeing some different needle position since having my coolant and thermostat changed.

It looks like the temp pretty much runs at 207 degrees at about 62 MPH, out side temp at 85 degrees. On a few slight grades the temp went as high as 211 degrees, big fan never came on.

I can now see that my temp before coolant and thermostat change was running at 204 degrees most of the time, so after change I'm running 3 degrees higher. Even though it is only 3 degrees higher it is driving me crazy to see the needle higher than before

Does the new temp at 207 or the old temp at 204 look normal? Or I guess put another way, which temp should be normal, 204 or 207?

Thanks,

Ron
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Old 05-03-2009, 05:35 PM   #7
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I would drain out 1 quart of anti freeze and replace it with 1 quart of distilled water.....NO 2 thermostats are the same either...

Jim
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Old 05-04-2009, 02:26 AM   #8
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I would drain out 1 quart of anti freeze and replace it with 1 quart of distilled water.....NO 2 thermostats are the same either...

Jim

Jim,

Are you saying that the new thermostat is restricting the flow to cause the temp to run 207 instead of 204?

I have prpbably already added about quart of water since I thought I had a leak and had to keep adding water to replace what might have been voids or air pockets. And why would I use distilled water since they didn't fill it up with distilled water?

Also, on our trip going to the campground the scan gage stayed on the screen that showed the water temp, but on the way back home several times the scan gauge kept flipping from the water temp to the screen that says Scan - Gauge, Trip - More?

Thanks,

Ron
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Old 05-04-2009, 06:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron & Dee View Post
Finally got my ScanGage ll hooked up

Since I'm not menu driven like the younger gereration I usually just hunt and peck

The main thing I'm interested in at this point is engine cooling temp. I started the engine and scrolled through the menu until I got to water temperature and watched the temp climb to 204 degrees and then it finally settled back to 195 degrees, no fans running. I'm assuming that 195 would be normal from start up and idling for several minutes?

I will get a better idea of operating temperatures this evening as we start out for a weekend camping trip.

Any other suggestion, and does my temperature look ok so far?

Thanks,

Ron
my 8.1 runs at about 197-203 on my sc2.
who replaced your coolant?
how much anti freeze did they use?
the mixture should be 50-50. too much anti freeze will result in higher temps.
you should be using filtered drinking water or distilled water, not tap water.
there could still be air in your system. open the radiator cap and make sure that the radiator is full. filling the overflow reservoir is not enough. do not remove the cap when the system is hot.
check that the rubber air dam is intact under the hood. it was probably loosened or partially removed when your coolant was replaced.
check the connector plugs on your sc2 for looseness. what other parameters are you displaying? you should always display 4. i started out with mph, rpm, trans temp and water temp.
i cannot tell from your signature block what kind of moho you have.
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:59 AM   #10
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Dan

The people that changed the coolant assured me that they put in 50/50.

The air dam is new and still in place.

The position that my needle was in before change had been there since I bought the MO in 2004 until last year after coolant and thermostat change. My scan gauge is telling me that that temp. was 204. I never had any over heating problems since owning the MO. I'm just very curious as to why the temp. now runs a 207, and will I encounter any over heating problems when I get to the mountains.

Running the MO in town this morning with outside temperature at approximately 70 degrees my temperature fluctuated from 200 to 204, that was after driving about 6 miles.

I have a 32' Adventure, 8.1 liter Workhorse

Thanks,

Ron
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:19 AM   #11
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Jim,

Are you saying that the new thermostat is restricting the flow to cause the temp to run 207 instead of 204?

I have prpbably already added about quart of water since I thought I had a leak and had to keep adding water to replace what might have been voids or air pockets. And why would I use distilled water since they didn't fill it up with distilled water?

Thanks,

Ron
Ron, The distilled water is pure (without minerals) while regular water coats your radiator with all of the minerals and over the years it builds up crud.....

I might run a mixture (50/50) IF I lived in the frozen tundra of the northern regions however I live in the Coachella valley (Palm Springs) area and while it can freeze in the winter months my antifreeze ratio remains at 20% to 25%.....

Only reason for that high of a ratio is antifreeze is a good water pump lubricant....

If anyone remembers the old containers for antifreeze they had a sliding scale for the amount of A.F. vs your regional temp, Well (IMHO) they decided to scrap that idea in order to sell more A.F. and just state a 50/50 mixture is the HOT ticket.

More A.F. simply means higher temps since water dissapates water temps easier.....Good marketing ploy.

I can get into the thermostats later on if you wish....Dan L. has a good explanation also....

Jim
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:18 PM   #12
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RON
maybe your new thermostat is a 200 deg stat? i would verify the part number that was installed. if you have the right stat you can try water wetter.
i have had good service with a product from REDLINE called WATER WETTER in my motorcycle and car. napa has a similar product but i think water wetter is better.
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Wetter water
Old 05-06-2009, 05:26 PM   #13
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Dan,

I like that "WETTER WATER MAKES IT BETTER"

We used to use that wetter water when I was a volunteer fire brigade member for the company I worked for.

Ron
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Old 05-07-2009, 05:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Ron, The distilled water is pure (without minerals) while regular water coats your radiator with all of the minerals and over the years it builds up crud.....

I might run a mixture (50/50) IF I lived in the frozen tundra of the northern regions however I live in the Coachella valley (Palm Springs) area and while it can freeze in the winter months my antifreeze ratio remains at 20% to 25%.....

Only reason for that high of a ratio is antifreeze is a good water pump lubricant....

If anyone remembers the old containers for antifreeze they had a sliding scale for the amount of A.F. vs your regional temp, Well (IMHO) they decided to scrap that idea in order to sell more A.F. and just state a 50/50 mixture is the HOT ticket.

More A.F. simply means higher temps since water dissapates water temps easier.....Good marketing ploy.

I can get into the thermostats later on if you wish....Dan L. has a good explanation also....

Jim
You don't understand the science of mixtures. When chemicals are combined, the resultant mixture has properties much different than either of the constituents.

Best example is Solder. Common electrical Solder is a combination of lead and tin (well, it used to be). The ratio of lead/tin has a dramatic effect on the melting point of the solder. When you hit a magic point you get the lowest possible melting point for those two materials in combination.

That is called the eutectic point and for solder, it is 63% Tin (Sn) to 37% Lead (Pb).

A similar situation occurs with a combination of water to AF. Both have different boiling points. When you combine them, there is a eutectic point for the combination at which the BP is higher than for either alone. Apparently, 50/50 produces this high BP mixture. The freezing points are similarly depressed.

Thus endeth the chemistry lesson. BTW, I am going back 42 years in my Physics degree for this info.

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