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Old 10-16-2015, 10:01 PM   #1
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Looking for common problems with W22 chassis

Hi everyone!

I just got a 2004 Damon Challenger with 15,000 miles on it. Everything seems fine and it runs great, but I'm noticing a lot of original parts. The tires were the factory originals as well as the shocks. Since I'm planning to drive this from Florida to Washington state next year, I'm thinking that I should spend the winter changing out any 11 years old parts that I can find.

Can anyone recommend common areas that can be points of failure on the 2004 W22 chassis? The break recall has already been dealt with and most of the rubber seems to be in good condition (although I'll be changing the serpentine belt soon).

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

zog
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:39 AM   #2
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Things to consider:

Coolant and all hoses are one thing I would change if that hasn't been done. Depending on when the brakes were done, a brake fluid flush may be in order. Check the differential level. Full chassis lubrication. When you change the belt, throw the old one in the basement for a spare. Plugs and wires, even though you have low mileage I would personally change them. Check the operation of the Evans valve in the heater hose, that is a know failure point that can prevent proper operation of the A/C. Evans has a diagnostic procedure on their web site.

I have been doing something similar since my coach was used and I wanted to bring it to a condition that I was familiar with.
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Old 10-17-2015, 09:45 AM   #3
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I definitely would go with new tires. The rule of thumb is to replace motorhome tires every seven to eight years no matter how good the tread looks. You might check the date code on the tires to see how old they really are. As mentioned before, I'd change the belt and all hoses; flush the coolant and brake fluid; change fuel filter; change air filter; change oil; and chassis lube.

I'm sure others will have lots of suggestions. Have fun on your trip.
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Old 10-17-2015, 03:09 PM   #4
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Dont forget the coolant bypass hose, which is an awful job to replace by the way.
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Old 10-17-2015, 07:15 PM   #5
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OK, here what I have done so far:

1. Replaced all 6 tires! The dealer really took me on those! By the time I learned to check the DOT, (2003!), it was to late! I would have insisted on new tires or a cash discount if I had know better, (sigh).

2. Replace all four shocks.

3. Sent my transmission and engine oil out for testing.

4. Changed my engine oil and replaced the 1/2 qt filter with a 2 qt.

5. Lubed most of the chassis, still need to get back under and find the zerks on the axel.

6. Flushed and bleed the brakes, (I have a vacuum kit, makes life easier)

7. Add stem valve extenders to my inner wheels, really helps with checking the inner tires and filling them.

8. Checked the differential oil level and the front hubs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
......When you change the belt, throw the old one in the basement for a spare. Plugs and wires, even though you have low mileage I would personally change them.
I'm planning on changing these once I'm in Florida next month. Everything is much more expensive here in Canada!


Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
......Check the operation of the Evans valve in the heater hose, that is a know failure point that can prevent proper operation of the A/C. Evans has a diagnostic procedure on their web site.
Do you have a link? I'm going out to my rig tomorrow, I'll check and see which valve I have. I've been Googling and it seems that there are several models out there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
......I have been doing something similar since my coach was used and I wanted to bring it to a condition that I was familiar with.
I understand! My car may not be the prettiest, but mechanically, it's in factory condition. I am borderline compulsive in making sure my vehicles are running "properly" and that they are safe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
Dont forget the coolant bypass hose, which is an awful job to replace by the way.
Where is it located?

Thanks everyone!
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Old 10-18-2015, 06:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zogthegreat View Post

Do you have a link? I'm going out to my rig tomorrow, I'll check and see which valve I have. I've been Googling and it seems that there are several models out there.
Here is the Evans valve diagnostics: Evans Valve Diagnostics

Quote:
Originally Posted by zogthegreat View Post

I understand! My car may not be the prettiest, but mechanically, it's in factory condition. I am borderline compulsive in making sure my vehicles are running "properly" and that they are safe.



Where is it located?
The bypass hose connects the water pump to the 8.1 specific coolant pipe mounted to the front of the heads. It is shown in this link. Bypass hose

I originally bought NAPA hoses for the upper and lower hoses, but the fit wasn't very good so I returned them and bought the Workhorse parts from UltraRV Products. These were original and went right in. The bypass is a straight GM part number, but unless you get a discount from a Chevy dealer might as well buy with the other hoses from Ultra RV. The bypass hose took me two days to remove. It has the squeeze clamps that were installed with the tangs so you can't reach them (fine if the motor is on a stand). I tried a lot of tools but finally worked them off with needle clamp pliers. I manage to squeeze enough to rotate the clamp for a better grip and then get one from below on the driver's side and one from above. Was not a fun job getting that off. Initially I didn't want to cut the hose in half for fear of not being able to remove I couldn't run the coach, but after I did it made things slightly easier. I re-installed the new one with screw hose clamps which makes installation and removal much easier.
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:21 AM   #7
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Change fuel filter. You and I have the same model year and have the 3 port filter. Get the fuel filter adapter (UltraProducts too) so you can use the common 2 port filter that's readily available and way cheaper.

A common problem is for the bottom fan shroud to rub the fan and wear all the way thru and self destruct the fan blades and sometimes takes out the radiator too. It's a close fit and when the fan is fully engaged, there is a huge suction that pulls the shroud into the fan. Drill a hole on the bottom middle of the shroud and bottom bracket and add a 1/4 inch sheet metal screw.

The dash a/c is somewhat marginal and for best results, run in MAX A/C mode. That way it's cooling inside air and not the super heated engine compartment air.

A lot of W22's have had burn plug wires but this depends on the coach design around the dog house and how much clearance/air flow past the engine. The wires burn right at the connection to the plug, typically the two plugs next to the back on either side (#5 or # 7). WH installed the air vent kit no charge after mine burnt the 2nd time. Your's may not be burnt open causing any problems until you try to remove them & then they'll break off. Highly recommend the stainless steel wire Magnums sold by UltraProducts. Magnum were designed for the WH problem by Glenn Norman, a truly great contributor to this forum, who passed away earlier this year....RIP Glenn! Glenn also designed the fuel filter adapter.

Good Luck & post often!
Bill
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:34 AM   #8
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Also clean or replace the MAF. CRC makes a cleaner just for this application. The little thermistors are very delicate and you don't want to touch them.....just use ample spray several times.
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:28 PM   #9
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Also, if you are not aware, there is a water ingestion issue. I have a recent thread on this if you need more information. I just finished fixing mine yesterday.
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Old 10-18-2015, 04:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Also, if you are not aware, there is a water ingestion issue. I have a recent thread on this if you need more information. I just finished fixing mine yesterday.
Yes, please. I hear that the water ingestion can be a PITA with theses things.
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Old 10-18-2015, 06:34 PM   #11
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Looking for common problems with W22 chassis

Here is the link to the thread. Post #3 shows how to seal the air filter box.

Question for those who have corrected the water ingestion issue
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
Here is the link to the thread. Post #3 shows how to seal the air filter box.

Question for those who have corrected the water ingestion issue - iRV2 Forums
Thanks!
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
Here is the Evans valve diagnostics: Evans Valve Diagnostics



The bypass hose connects the water pump to the 8.1 specific coolant pipe mounted to the front of the heads. It is shown in this link. Bypass hose

I originally bought NAPA hoses for the upper and lower hoses, but the fit wasn't very good so I returned them and bought the Workhorse parts from UltraRV Products. These were original and went right in. The bypass is a straight GM part number, but unless you get a discount from a Chevy dealer might as well buy with the other hoses from Ultra RV. The bypass hose took me two days to remove. It has the squeeze clamps that were installed with the tangs so you can't reach them (fine if the motor is on a stand). I tried a lot of tools but finally worked them off with needle clamp pliers. I manage to squeeze enough to rotate the clamp for a better grip and then get one from below on the driver's side and one from above. Was not a fun job getting that off. Initially I didn't want to cut the hose in half for fear of not being able to remove I couldn't run the coach, but after I did it made things slightly easier. I re-installed the new one with screw hose clamps which makes installation and removal much easier.
Your Evan diagnostic link says to rotate the temp knob during the test. Mine has a slide type temp selector which I assume moves a cable. Do I still have an Evans Valve? Where exactly is it located so I can look for it?
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Old 10-20-2015, 05:48 PM   #14
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Also make sure that the brake recall was done. It is free.
I would suggest Koni shocks - made my unit ride better than my DP.
It is a good chassis - if looked after.
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