Lubing Pins and Slides....

[Capt Joe]

I have always taken pride in PM on my equipment and try to do all I can to prevent breakdowns, etc. I've always tried to do as much of it myself as I feel most of the time I can and will do a better job working on my own equipment that an hourly paid mechanic.

That said, we sold our travel trailer earlier in the year after buying our Winnebago. By keeping up with my PM on the TT, I had VERY little problem with it, however, our MH has been a different story. Have had our brake problem, as reported in another thread, with brakes locking, burned out coil on #6 cylinder, Actia instrument cluster, dash A/C failure, etc...but we absolutly love our motorhome!!!!

I've flushed and changed the brake fluid recently and have been reading about lubing the slides and pins on the calipers. Is this a proceedure that a pretty good backyard mechanic can and should tackle. If so, does anyone have a reference giving the proceedure and techniques. Was wondering if it is necessary to remove the wheels, disassemble the caliper, etc.
Thanks for any and all info you may be able to post.

[Capt Joe]

I have always taken pride in PM on my equipment and try to do all I can to prevent breakdowns, etc. I've always tried to do as much of it myself as I feel most of the time I can and will do a better job working on my own equipment that an hourly paid mechanic.

That said, we sold our travel trailer earlier in the year after buying our Winnebago. By keeping up with my PM on the TT, I had VERY little problem with it, however, our MH has been a different story. Have had our brake problem, as reported in another thread, with brakes locking, burned out coil on #6 cylinder, Actia instrument cluster, dash A/C failure, etc...but we absolutly love our motorhome!!!!

I've flushed and changed the brake fluid recently and have been reading about lubing the slides and pins on the calipers. Is this a proceedure that a pretty good backyard mechanic can and should tackle. If so, does anyone have a reference giving the proceedure and techniques. Was wondering if it is necessary to remove the wheels, disassemble the caliper, etc.
Thanks for any and all info you may be able to post.

[Max Hubrich]

Hi Captain Joe,

I did my pin lube job over a year ago. It went real easy.


Go Here to view it.

You also need to look at your lower radiator shroud while your under the the rig and see if the "bolt" has been added to secure it to the frame. Omey explains this well with pictures-- Go Here.

Cleaning the ABS wheel sensors is another good maintenance item to perform. Here is my thread on doing that chore---- Go Here

Good luck,

[Joe Gilbert]

I agree with Max H that you do not need to remove the wheel however, I'm not sure why he says to remove one pin (bolt) and swing the caliper forward. Seems to me that one only needs to remove each pin (one at a time), clean them and lube with the correct pin-slide lube. Also Max says you cannot remove the top rear pins all of the way. On my W22 they do come all of the way out. There is just bearly enough space to remove these two pins however it can be done, at least on the W22.

I purchased a socket which makes the job easier but as Max said you'll need a box-end wrench for the top upper rear pins.

Not a differcult job at all so go at it.

[flash1942]

Hey, I gotta ask.Does this procedure work on motorhomes with 19.5" wheels? THanks, Lloyd

[hawg6]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Capt Joe:
I have always taken pride in PM on my equipment and try to do all I can to prevent breakdowns, etc. I've always tried to do as much of it myself as I feel most of the time I can and will do a better job working on my own equipment that an hourly paid mechanic.

That said, we sold our travel trailer earlier in the year after buying our Winnebago. By keeping up with my PM on the TT, I had VERY little problem with it, however, our MH has been a different story. Have had our brake problem, as reported in another thread, with brakes locking, burned out coil on #6 cylinder, Actia instrument cluster, dash A/C failure, etc...but we absolutly love our motorhome!!!!

I've flushed and changed the brake fluid recently and have been reading about lubing the slides and pins on the calipers. Is this a proceedure that a pretty good backyard mechanic can and should tackle. If so, does anyone have a reference giving the proceedure and techniques. Was wondering if it is necessary to remove the wheels, disassemble the caliper, etc.
Thanks for any and all info you may be able to post. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>After two caliper lock-ups I replaced the four calipers, one rotor, one sensor and four pin sets. My pins can be removed with the wheels on, but the wheels had to be removed to install the calipers. The Bosch ZOH-T Anchor Plate Repair Kit Installation Procedure specifies the use of Albida PPS Grease 1, which is provided in the pins kits. The Bosch manual, which can be downloaded from this site, states use ONLY Shell Albida PPS Grease 1. I could not find a source for the Shell Grease, but it was included and therefore I did not need additional grease. The pins are positioned as leading and trailing.
the instructions state "Always tighten the leading caliper mounting blot first". The Meritor WABCO installation guide for the sensor specifies the use of the grease and a new spring clip furnished with the sensor. The WABCO manualfor their website states "Meritor WABCO specifications call for a sensor lubricant with the following characteristics. Lube must be mineral oil-based and contain molydisulfide. It should have excellent anti-corrosion and adhesion characteristics and capable of continuous function in a temperature range of -40 to 300 degrees F." The distributor I located the lubricant for the three sensors I'm not replacing apprised me the spring clips should be changed when sensors are removed and reinstalled. The last installation requirement of interest is "Push the sensor competely into the sensor spring clip until it contacts the tooth wheel. NOTE: After installation, there should be no gap between the sensor and the tooth wheel. During normal operation, a gap of up to 0.04-inch is allowable." Not sure of why the specific specs. for the sensor lube, but assume it is required to keep the sensor from seizing in the holder? The Meritor WABCO manual can be downloaded from the internet, also.

[exrench]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by flash1942:
Hey, I gotta ask.Does this procedure work on motorhomes with 19.5" wheels? THanks, Lloyd[/Q
UOTE]
Yes,this proceedure will indeed work on 19.5 wheels and is a recipe that may very well result in burned out brakes.If all you do is grease the pins,you should sniff the brakes often! There is a lot that has been suggested as effective preventative maintenance some correct and some otherwise.Your best bet is to continue to research the question in the archives.You might look for what I have written on the subject as I suspect that the clues to the WH brake troubles are addressed in my postings.

[bdaball]

FYI, There is a kit from WH,($18-ish) with a new rubber boots, slide pin lube and an applicator brush. I would quote you the part number but not sure if all chassis are the same. PM me and I can send you pictures of the kit I used with part numbers for my W22.

[flash1942]

Let me ask again,a different way.Has anyone done this procedure on motorhome with 19.5' wheels? When i tried it,I could not move caliper out far enough to remove pin because the caliper hits on the wheel.Was I doing it wrong? Thanks for more info. Lloyd