Lug nut torque and a torque multiplier on sale

[Clay L]

Over the last few years I have asked several tire shops (ones that handle trucks and RVs) and RV dealers how they measure the 475 foot pound lug nut torque requirement on the Wxx series chassis.
So far I haven't talked to one that checked it. One tire shop had a 500 foot pound torque wrench way up on a shelf but admitted that they hadn't used it in years and wasn't sure why they had it.
There must be a lot out of them there that do, particularly on trucks, but I didn't come across any. I am pretty sure that a road service won't have any way to measure the torque either.

So I decided to get a 3 to 1 torque multiplier so I could set the torque myself if necessary. There is also a good chance that I will do a brake job when it's necessary and it would be needed then.

I got one from Northern Tool for $250. It comes in a case and there is a 3/4 inch drive 18 inch long ratchet with it. The input drive is 3/4 and the output is 1 inch. The 1 inch output is the kicker.
A 1 inch drive 33mm socket cost me about $30 at Grainger. The necessary 10 inch long extension cost about $78.
Then I needed a torque wrench that would handle 475/3 foot pounds - 158 foot pounds. I got it at Northern also - $80. It's a half inch drive so I have to use a 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapter but I already have one of those.
I am going to have to get a 15 inch long or so cheater pipe for the reaction bar but other than that I am all set.
I tried it out and it was easy to loosen the lug nuts and then re-torque them to 475 foot pounds.

If any one is interested, Northern has the torque multiplier set on sale for $199 HERE

[Clay L]

Over the last few years I have asked several tire shops (ones that handle trucks and RVs) and RV dealers how they measure the 475 foot pound lug nut torque requirement on the Wxx series chassis.
So far I haven't talked to one that checked it. One tire shop had a 500 foot pound torque wrench way up on a shelf but admitted that they hadn't used it in years and wasn't sure why they had it.
There must be a lot out of them there that do, particularly on trucks, but I didn't come across any. I am pretty sure that a road service won't have any way to measure the torque either.

So I decided to get a 3 to 1 torque multiplier so I could set the torque myself if necessary. There is also a good chance that I will do a brake job when it's necessary and it would be needed then.

I got one from Northern Tool for $250. It comes in a case and there is a 3/4 inch drive 18 inch long ratchet with it. The input drive is 3/4 and the output is 1 inch. The 1 inch output is the kicker.
A 1 inch drive 33mm socket cost me about $30 at Grainger. The necessary 10 inch long extension cost about $78.
Then I needed a torque wrench that would handle 475/3 foot pounds - 158 foot pounds. I got it at Northern also - $80. It's a half inch drive so I have to use a 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapter but I already have one of those.
I am going to have to get a 15 inch long or so cheater pipe for the reaction bar but other than that I am all set.
I tried it out and it was easy to loosen the lug nuts and then re-torque them to 475 foot pounds.

If any one is interested, Northern has the torque multiplier set on sale for $199 HERE

[John-D]

In all my travels I have been to a total of ONE tire store, auto or RV, that properly used a torque wrench to tighten the lugs down.
'
Belle Tire

Most of them just put the air wrench on it and hammer a bit... To be honest,, they get it right close MOST of the time

[DriVer]

I've been to quite a few tire shops in my ownership and not once have I seen a shop torque lug nuts.

It's typically 3/4" drive impact gun and a rat-ta-ta-tat.

Non-caring individuals with an impact wrench will tighten the wheels either clockwise or counter clock wise. The proper way to tighten your wheels will always be in a star pattern.

Apply the nuts until tight in a star pattern and then tighten them in the same manner.

Torque to the required value if you have the proper tools.

[RustyJC]

Here's what the big boys use on large industrial engines, etc. - X4.

Rusty

[dieselclacker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John-D:
In all my travels I have been to a total of ONE tire store, auto or RV, that properly used a torque wrench to tighten the lugs down.
'
Belle Tire

Most of them just put the air wrench on it and hammer a bit... To be honest,, they get it right close MOST of the time </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


John-D Costco torques wheel lugs on cars after installing wheels with air wrench. Key words in your post may be "properly used a torque wrench". Not proper use if you torque to say 75 foot pounds, after tightning to 125 foot pounds with a rattle jack.
And DriVer you are correct in that many tire shops do not use the proper sequence in tightning wheel lugs. They should in addition to using the star pattern as mentioned, be tightened in about three increments, with increasing torque in each increment. This insures that the brake rotor amongst other things does not get warped. This being said, I would bet 95 percent of mounted wheels never see a torque wrench. I personally have never seen one fall off from not being torqued.

Dieselclacker

Dieselclacker

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RustyJC:
Here's what the big boys use on large industrial engines, etc. - </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Rusty, Yep I got one ...

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by dieselclacker:
This being said, I would bet 95 percent of mounted wheels never see a torque wrench. I personally have never seen one fall off from not being torqued. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>dieselclacker, In Union City they use a 4 head torque wrench on the line to install the wheels. It's very quiet and the nuts go on somewhat slowly but they all go on at the same time. The tool is turned and another set of 4 nuts are torqued.

This indeed could be the last time a vehicle sees a torque wrench used on its wheels.

[mmgm1]

Here is a torque multiplier for Workhorse lugs. http://www.times12.com/wrench.htm I found one on ebay two years ago. The seller did not know what it was but I recognized it. Got it for about $75. They just had one sell this week for about $192. Driver, I know the rotors on the WH chassis are certainly more robust than my pickup, but is the torque as critcal on the WH rotors to prevent warping as it is on my pickup? Glenn - 2005 safari trek

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by mmgm1:
I know the rotors on the WH chassis are certainly more robust than my pickup, but is the torque as critical on the WH rotors to prevent warping as it is on my pickup? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Glen, Proportionally I would say yes. Torque on the W series is 475 ft/lbs and the torque on a pickup truck is what maybe 140 ft/lbs? more or less but the mass of the rotor on the p/u truck vs the rotor on a Class 6 truck chassis is significantly more critical. Torque needs to be properly applied on a motorhome or at least the semblance of torque by following a prescribed tightening pattern and sequence. A lot of shops do not adhere to the exact procedure in assuring that our tires and wheels are properly torqued. When asked the typical response is that we haven't had one fall off yet!

[mygrayhound]

There's a tool called a "torque stick" you can buy for about $125 that looks just like a heavy duty, 5" extension for air impact wrenches. They are ordered at the torque spec you need & calibrated very close. They offer some "slop" between the wrench and lug nut so you need a pretty high torque wrench for them to work properly.

If you don't carry an impact wrench-just tote along the torque stick and give it to the tech and watch him-at least they can't over torque.

[Clay L]

I was under the impression that they were not all that accurate.
The Walmart where we are right now uses them to torque the lug nuts, drives the vehicle out around the back parking lot and then another guy uses a torque wrench to check them.

I asked them why the torque wrench after the torque stick and he said the stick wasn't as accurate as the wrench.

That said I was just relying on that statement and I don't know much about the sticks.

If they are accurate it seems like they could be a cheaper solution to the problem.

[HuskyJack]

I carry a 600 lb torque wrench purchase from Harbor Freight, 42" long so it's not difficult to torque the nuts to 475 pounds. Cost is $139.99.

Jack

[mygrayhound]

I'd have to believe the wrench is definitely more accurate Clay, and at $139.00 (as per Husky Jack-about the same price) it'd be the way to go. I thought they'd be double that.

A great tire shop (Sehman Tire, Evans City, PA) said the stick is very close and they have both-but maybe it's just a lot quicker! It would be better than a guess however...

'05 Itasca Suncruiser 37b W-24 (& lovin' it)