Making new rubber air dam around radiators

[BEBOP]

I just had a complete replacement of the dash A/C condensor.
the rubber air dam was pretty much cracked and rotten so the Tech cut it all out to facilite the r & r of the Condensor unit.
When I got it home I looked at the job and noted that there was no more air dam.
I posted here in this forum and asked if it should be replaced.
Driver and others said absolutely and post haste.
I finally found the material 1/8 inch thick rubber matt and ordered a section 12 inches by 48" I think that with a few cutouts and tie downs and fender washers that will do the trick.
I found the material at my local Orchard Supply Hardware store that is owned by Sears. the cost for this piece was 44.40 plus tax.
I am now ready to install it.
Does anyone have any advice for me before I start on this project?
I would be pleased to hear any replies.
Thanks to all,
Bebop

[scoutmstr]

Since you also have a Rexhall the firewall is wood which makes screwing the rubber to the firewall easy. Just don't use screws longer than the thickness of the firewall. Rexhall mounts things directly to the firewall on the inside of the coach some of which do not take kindly to being poked with screws.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoutmstr ... some of which do not take kindly to being poked with screws.

scoutmstr, Sounds almost like a quote from Hunt for Red October!

[BEBOP]

thank you Scoutmstr.
I think I can just use the original screws and washers to mount the new rubber to the wood firewall.
Thanks for your reply,
Best to you and your Rexhall
Bebop

[max49]

Something about a 'wood firewall' just does'nt sound right. I guess it's better insulation than steel tho.
Good luck with the air dam tho. Post some pics when it's finished.

[kennersonf]

Workhorse has a replacement air dam. It is Part # W0005312 and is called "Baffle, Center". I bought one from Redlands Truck in May 2007. The price was $66.23. It is precut, but your will have to do a little modifying yourself. The replacement piece is much thicker than the original. My original fell apart after four years. The new one is holding up great.

[Max Hubrich]

My original one was paper thin and was garbage.

A friend had some old conveyor belt material laying around and I cut and fit it into my spaces. You can also put two pieces together with a 1/2" strip of aluminum from Lowes and use pop rivets, with backing washers, if needed

It was red in color and when I finished it, I then sprayed it black----

Here is a picture of part of it (The picture was for a radiator cap alignment thread-- Just easy to pull up now).

The vertical strip against the radiator is a piece of very heavy gasket material I got at Car Quest in a roll.

[scoutmstr]

Quote:

Originally Posted by max49 Something about a 'wood firewall' just does'nt sound right. I guess it's better insulation than steel tho. Good luck with the air dam tho. Post some pics when it's finished.

I agree with you and its not even real wood but particleboard. Luckily other things on the Rexhall outweight this shortcoming

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoutmstr I agree with you and its not even real wood but particleboard.

You know it's probably OSB. It's very strong.

July Motorhome magazine had an excellent article about the Rexhall T-Rex UFO.

[scoutmstr]

You're right, it is OSB

[adj]

Speaking of air dams. I wonder what good that rubber is considering the huge expanse of open area between the front cap and the front of the engine. I can open the front service door on my LaPalma and look down on the front wheels. It stricks me there is a great deal of air taking the path of least resistance. Does it make sense to restrict the size of the opening, thereby, routing more air thru the cooling pack?

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by adj It strikes me there is a great deal of air taking the path of least resistance. Does it make sense to restrict the size of the opening, thereby, routing more air thru the cooling pack?

adj, Ideally, If one could make a funnel type opening like a chipper inside of the enclosure where a larger %percentage% of the air coming through the grill was immediately directed toward the cool pack this would be awesome. That said the OEMs will only allocate just so much time and effort to accomplish that and what we see on our rigs is what we have.

Personally I have good flow through my cool pack and have not fried any wires.

[adj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer adj, Ideally, If one could make a funnel type opening like a chipper inside of the enclosure where a larger %percentage% of the air coming through the grill was immediately directed toward the cool pack this would be awesome. That said the OEMs will only allocate just so much time and effort to accomplish that and what we see on our rigs is what we have. Personally I have good flow through my cool pack and have not fried any wires.

Thanks for the comeback Driver. I, also, do not have any heat related problems. When you use the word "awesome", what would be the results of increasing airflow? Gas mileage; engine efficiency; engine life------

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by adj When you use the word "awesome", what would be the results of increasing airflow? Gas mileage; engine efficiency; engine life------

adj, That's an excellent question. In my opinion an "awesome" rating would suggest structure which is above expectation. I would fully expect that providing more airflow to the cool pack would be multi-fold. I would not expect gas mileage to play a significant role. Engine efficiency may improve since a "cooler" internal combustion engine is a happy one. Engine life would be extended in my estimation.

A focused aperture type enclosure in the front of the cool pack would not only improve engine efficiency but transmission cooling and the ever important creature comfort - air conditioning I believe would also benefit.

Exactly to what degree these improvements would benefit from the stock configurations which vary from 1 OEM to the other would bring up the question, at what cost?

If one takes a look at the UFO fan shroud assembly; there is a model of efficiency. Nearly 100% of the air that is pushed by the fan through the cool pack is directed through the cool pack. There is no bleed over. A UFO remains cool under the most adverse conditions including in Death Valley where it was tested. (the current FCA issue noted)