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Old 05-24-2012, 06:23 PM   #15
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Thanks Driver! I'm still learning.
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:46 PM   #16
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I tried something that I read about here (forget the author's name, sorry!) on our recent trip through the South and South West. I blocked off my fresh air intake (under the hood, passenger's side), which then forces the system into "recirculating" mode full time. This eliminates pulling in air from the outside - which is hot when you want to be cool, and freezing when you want to be warm?

Bottom line? Worked great! With the roof AC's on, the cab blower running on medium, while on the heat side (heat set to "cold" of course!), there's no drag on the engine turning the cab AC compressor, and nice cool air picked up off the floor is blown in your face even in 100 degree heat! FWIW....
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:35 AM   #17
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This isn't a Workhorse problem by the way since these devices are supplied, installed and supported by the coach builder.
When I ask questions it has more to do with my learning process then to point a finger at any manufacturer. I know that over time some items wear and may stop operating as intended. I also know that there is a ton for experience on these pages that come up with fixes and tricks to make things better and may not indicate a wide spread problem. If this is a small problem based on the number of units in operation I may not take any action. If more common I may get the replacement parts and have them ready or I make the change as preventative maintenance. This is my first class "A" and I have a lot to learn. So I bow to those who are smarter then this humble new guy
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:44 AM   #18
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TheArnolds,

I think Driver was pointing out there is confusion around the lines of demarcation on what parts the chassis builder and coach builder use for the final product. This is especially true for the dash air. The chassis builder provides all those parts connected to the engine and the coach builder provides the rest,ie: the valve, the heater box, and the dash controls.....lots of opportunity for confusion.

You are correct about this being a great place to get info. I have been on this site at least once a day since 2005. My wife thinks I'm a little bit addicted.

Good luck,
Dave
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:12 AM   #19
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I tried to go that route with the barbed fittings made of plastic. The diameter of those fittings made it almost impossible to insert into the heater hose. Maybe steel barbed fittings might work better. That is why I went with sweat fittings. Have had no problems with slippage using good worm drive clamps.
The brass barbs work pretty easy!
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:15 AM   #20
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Reading these posts it would appear the this is a common problem and others should consider the modification or is there some way to check to see if you have some flow when the heater is shut off?
With the valve supposedly closed, and engine warm, feel the hoses. If they are hot, your valve is leaking by, otherwise you are probably still good.
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:16 PM   #21
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I think Driver was pointing out there is confusion around the lines of demarcation on what parts the chassis builder and coach builder use for the final product. Good luck,
Dave
Dave: Thanks, I understand...DriVer has been very helpful to me and many other and I value his advice and comments!
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Old 05-26-2012, 07:41 PM   #22
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I have had that valve for some time also, this post will explain why, just do not forget to turn it back on during the fall & winter months or DW may not be happy.
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