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Old 05-22-2012, 05:42 AM   #1
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Maximizing dash air

This is how I dealt with my second bypassing heater valve
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:53 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Z View Post
This is how I dealt with my second bypassing heater valve
Yep! ... That'll shut that down quick enough!
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:46 PM   #3
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Help me here...what am I looking at and why?

Maybe this was the result of a previous thread?
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:13 PM   #4
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Help me here...what am I looking at ....
Roger! What you are looking at is a manual ball valve that will turn OFF all the heated coolant before it makes its way inside to your heater box. Shutting down all the heat to the heater (core) box inside reduces the need for the refrigerated air flow to overcome the heater core residual temperatures "especially" if your temperature valve does not tightly shut down the flow. In the picture you can see that a manual ball valve and a cable operated water valve are incorporated in the circuit.

In this manner, if the ball valve is open, temperature inside the cockpit can still be adjusted by the lever on the HVAC panel in the MH.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:25 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by DriVer View Post
Roger! What you are looking at is a manual ball valve that will turn OFF all the heated coolant before it makes its way inside to your heater box. Shutting down all the heat to the heater (core) box inside reduces the need for the refrigerated air flow to overcome the heater core residual temperatures "especially" if your temperature valve does not tightly shut down the flow. In the picture you can see that a manual ball valve and a cable operated water valve are incorporated in the circuit.

In this manner if the ball valve is open, temperature inside the cockpit can be moderated by the lever on the HVAC panel in the MH.
Yes sir DriVer you hit it on the nose. Got tired of the air conditioner having to overcome a slight passing of heated radiator fluid thru the heater core. Now when I turn the ball valve off in the summer we get full benefit of the dash air.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:36 PM   #6
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I'm ready to do the same on mine. The heater control valve is still working but allows some flow, minimal, with the ac on. Where did you get the bubs to screw into the valve? 3/4"? Buy the way, my hoses were on backwards, hose from engine (outflow) went direct to heat core and return from core went to valve before it returned to engine. while the valve prevented flow it still allowed hot coolant to makes it way to core. Corrected the hose confirguration, engine to valve, then to heater core before returning to engine. Much improved.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:52 PM   #7
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1/2 inch solder ball valve with 2 short pieces of 1/2 copper sweat into the valve. Clamps hold tight and passes plenty of hot water in the winter.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:56 PM   #8
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rolled around last weekend and just ran the roof airs. The dash air seemed to make the clutch fan engage
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:06 AM   #9
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I generally use the house air with the generator but I insulated the heater box which may help the dash air some. I covered everything under the dash, including the heater box, with Dynamat mostly to reduce noise but it also insulates as well. It keeps the inside of the coach a little cooler which would help the dash air too.

Good luck,
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:12 AM   #10
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THANKS GUYS, I R Educated better now.
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Old 05-23-2012, 09:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ValleyCenter View Post
I'm ready to do the same on mine. The heater control valve is still working but allows some flow, minimal, with the ac on. Where did you get the bubs to screw into the valve? 3/4"? Buy the way, my hoses were on backwards, hose from engine (outflow) went direct to heat core and return from core went to valve before it returned to engine. while the valve prevented flow it still allowed hot coolant to makes it way to core. Corrected the hose confirguration, engine to valve, then to heater core before returning to engine. Much improved.
1/2" threaded ball valve with threaded 1/2" barbs, easier than doing sweat fittings, also the hoses clamp on much more securely. (you may need to go to a real hardware store to find these, "Home Improvement" store didn't carry them, I was "corrected" by a Home Depot employee when I complained that they did not carry things that a local small hardware store did, but that they run it out of business.)
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Old 05-24-2012, 04:31 AM   #12
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1/2" threaded ball valve with threaded 1/2" barbs, easier than doing sweat fittings, also the hoses clamp on much more securely.
I tried to go that route with the barbed fittings made of plastic. The diameter of those fittings made it almost impossible to insert into the heater hose. Maybe steel barbed fittings might work better. That is why I went with sweat fittings. Have had no problems with slippage using good worm drive clamps.
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:03 PM   #13
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Reading these posts it would appear the this is a common problem and others should consider the modification or is there some way to check to see if you have some flow when the heater is shut off?
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:19 PM   #14
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Reading these posts it would appear the this is a common problem and others should consider the modification or is there some way to check to see if you have some flow when the heater is shut off?
My vacuum operated water control valve works just fine without a manual shut off. (At this time)

I do carry a manual valve in my tool box since the vacuum one is prone to giving up the ghost and blowing coolant all over the place.

This isn't a Workhorse problem by the way since these devices are supplied, installed and supported by the coach builder.
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