Measuring "Dog-House" temperature

[Joe Gilbert]

I had mentioned to Max49 that it would be easy to measure the temperatures inside the dog-house while driving. Since one of my many multimeters (one never seems to be enough) had the capability of measuring temperature I decided to invest in the thermocouple so I could play with this ($14.00 at Sears for my meter). If you don't have a multimeter Sears sells a good meter, packaged with a thermocouple, for $53.00.

I have tie wraped the probe near the #6 plug wire as this seems to be a problem area for some motorhomes. The thermocouple wire is very small and not a problem running it along the dog-house seal. It is 3' long so reaching my meter was not an issue.

My Dolphin does not have the "burnt plug wire problem" still it will be interesting to see what the temperature is.

The photo shows the meter and the temperature, which was not hot as I was not driving the RV, however you can see how easy it is to do this.

JoeG

[max49]

Sounds like a good idea Joe. It might be hard to figure out What temperature is too hot. I can't imagine The temperature being that much different Between number 6 And number 4 spark plug wire. I would have a small window of opportunity To open the dog house and start throwing water on the wire. Since it's just the rubber boot on the spark plug wire That burns or melts I think the tight fitting metal heat shield might be holding the heat in, instead of letting it get some air flow. If I burn another wire, it's coming off.

[iRV4FUN]

Joe, here’s what I noticed in your picture that might explain why you have not had a burnt plug wire.

Your dog house is not tapered or funneled like Max's and mine. In other words it has a wider and unrestricted air flow. Ours starts out wide then narrows.

I still think it's a body builder design issue.

I've thought about placing a remote wireless temperature sensor just to get a reading of my doghouse oven's temperature.

[Joe Gilbert]

I expect your correct; it is a design issue. Having said that several people have tried various mods to provide better cooling. The problem is unless your measuring the temperature one has no way of knowing if their mod has helped or made the issue worse.

I'll be on the road Oct. 1st and I'll log some data points (outside temp/dog-house temp). If nothing else it will be interesting.

JoeG

[pkmesser]

IRV4FUN, not too sure about the doghouse shape being an issue. I have a very narrow doghouse, have only lost #4. Also, the plugs, and plug wires are way below the floor of the chassis, and that is the same on any WH.

[DriVer]

I have a wide sloped doghouse that tapers down to about 2" high. Woof! The DW complains on her side and for me, it's not that bad at all unless it really gets hot out and then the doghouse may get a bit warm. I usually drive with just socks on.

[Full-Timers]

I have a meter just like that and a thermocouple. I thought about slipping the thermocouple down between the plug boot and the metal shield to see how hot it gets in there. Probably cause an arc and fry my meter though.

[pkmesser]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer I have a wide sloped doghouse that tapers down to about 2" high. Woof! The DW complains on her side and for me, it's not that bad at all unless it really gets hot out and then the doghouse may get a bit warm. I usually drive with just socks on.

Driver; just in the interest of clarity you understand, does DW complain because she doesn't have enough floor space due to doghouse shape, or because you drive with just socks on, especially when it's hot out?


I do look forward to what Joe learns!

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pkmesser Driver; just in the interest of clarity you understand, does DW complain because she doesn't have enough floor space due to doghouse shape, or because you drive with just socks on, especially when it's hot out?

pkmesser, With stuff like this .... how can you help not loving this place!

[iRV4FUN]

Look at my #7 plug pics and ask yourself if my Body Builder was either drunk or used illegal drugs while on the job?

Wish I had a tighter fitting doghouse frame! I couldn't even fit the TJefferson bill behind the plug boot.

http://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot..._tight_fit.jpg

http://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...Damon_Rail.jpg

Anyone got a cutting torch? LOL

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by iRV4FUN Look at my #7 plug pics ... Wish I had a tighter fitting doghouse frame! I couldn't even fit the TJefferson bill behind the plug boot.

Wow! That is tight.

[dezertcamper]

I am almost 99% convinced the RV's with over heating and plug issues are models that have poor grill openings. I dont think the height of the dog house, side skirts along the frame rails or even the big deal that seems to be made about sealing 100% off around the cool pack with the rubber dam is why we see these overheating issues.

My reason and thought for this is the radiator is only going to take so much air. The size of the fins and the amount of extra coolers placed in front of the radiator causes allot of restriction. If you completly seal off around the radiator you are now forcing the displaced air that cant get threw the radiator to go out between the body/bumper area and the radiator. I have seen a simular issue on a race vehicle and they found out the higher temps were because the air flow not going threw the radiator and being forced down and outward were causing a cavitation or air buffing pocket of sorts.

Now if you are not getting enough air threw the grill opening then you are not going to be pushing enough air threw the radiator. No matter how much you seal off or add ducting to a specific area you are still not getting enough air to do the job needed. I would almost bet if you cut and opened up the front grill area you will see a bigger improvement in cooling.


I have a 2003 Fleetwood Southwind and my grill openings are quite large and I have yet to have any cooling issues. (Knock on wood!) I have added the air ducts to the plug wires as a precaution. I also lined my whole engine bay with B-Quite to help with sound and to reduce a bit of the heat felt on the floor. My spark plug wires are BWD Premium Select lifetime warranty. I paid around $50 for the wire set. I dont run any extra heat shields or socks around the wires.

So this past weekend we were at the river in Yuma and AZ was having high heat warnings. At the river the temp was between 110 and 114 degrees. The water was 90 degrees so dont feel bad for me! Anyways on our way home we take the I-8 West to San Diego. For those who know the I-8 has a steep 6+ percent grade for approx 11 miles. At the base of the grade you are under 100 feet above sea level and by mile 18 you are at the 4000 ft mark. At the base of the hill by Millers Garage in Ocotillo the temp was 117 degrees outside. I turned off the engine AC unit and kept the coach AC on to keep the kids cool. We ran the grade at 3200-4000 rpm trying to keep the trans form kicking down and reving the engine. My engine seems to have a happy spot right around 3200 to 3500 RPM's. We did get down to 45 at one point. But we never got hot or had any plug wire burning issues.

Now I am impressed and feel good that if I can run in that heat I should be OK. So now I am braging to a friend who has a Bounder and he said he too has never had any issues and a mater of fact more then half of his rubber air dam around the radiator is rotted off and is gone. It has been that was for a few years.

So now this has me thinking that the air problems are more related to the amount of open grill area and not as much as the other issues we have all looked at in the past. This would also confirm what Workhorse has said for years that the coach manufactures have caused this heating and plug burning issue vs the chassis manufacture.