Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-21-2011, 05:42 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Full-Timers's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Everywhere,USA
Posts: 1,134
I figured it wouldn’t be as easy as it sounds on paper. I knew you couldn’t get the top cover off without removing the lock (I think I tried once) but I was wondering if you could get to the hole with the top cover loose. I know my steering wheel (the 18”) takes a special puller because it is recessed (if I remember right) so I wouldn’t want to attempt that either. Two step 3s, darn I can't edit it either.
__________________

__________________
Full-Timers
in a
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W22 Workhorse
Full-Timers is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-23-2011, 11:18 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Full-Timers's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Everywhere,USA
Posts: 1,134
Hey Bruceh, Did you get the switch replaced. If so how did it go?
__________________

__________________
Full-Timers
in a
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W22 Workhorse
Full-Timers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 10:46 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
bruceh's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full-Timers View Post
Hey Bruceh, Did you get the switch replaced. If so how did it go?
I am at the coast taking the weekend off. I got to the point where the switch is held in by one bolt, a torx t25. The torx tools that I have are the screwdriver type and the remaining bolt is covered by the steering wheel leaving about 2 inches to access it.

I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and bought a torx socket set which should allow me to get the remaining bolt out.

I have not yet removed the lock cylinder and am not sure if I really need to.

Thanks again for the instructions and the follow through. All told, the job is not that difficult. I will be in a position to be a multifunction switch mentor after this!
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
bruceh is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 12:35 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Full-Timers's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Everywhere,USA
Posts: 1,134
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
I will be in a position to be a multifunction switch mentor after this!
Good deal!
__________________
Full-Timers
in a
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W22 Workhorse
Full-Timers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2011, 03:23 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
bruceh's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 609
I have finally removed the switch and will pick one up tomorrow at Autozone (thanks to oemy's web site for the part #) for the almost reasonable cost of $176.

I will write up the entire procedure once I am done. It wasn't exactly like the instruction above but they were a great help.

I still have the original problem of:

how do I stop this from happening again?
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
bruceh is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2011, 07:24 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2010
Location: BAR-BOB Ranch, San Bernard River Valley, Texas
Posts: 777
Finally found related info in workhose chassis guide that helps explain problem.
Improper wiring to towed unit can cause chassis and towed unit electrical problems.
Towed unit wiring is often added and is often spliced into Workhorse Chassis wiring.
Towed unit electrical requirements above 6 amps that is spliced into chassis wiring can
overload the chassis turn signal and/or 4 way flasher switch resulting in switch continued
failure. There are market kits that use relays such that the operating current does not go
through the turn signal or 4-way flasher switch. These relay kits are recommended in
place of cutting into chassis wiring.
__________________
ctpres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2011, 10:50 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
bruceh's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctpres View Post
Finally found related info in workhose chassis guide that helps explain problem.
Improper wiring to towed unit can cause chassis and towed unit electrical problems.
Towed unit wiring is often added and is often spliced into Workhorse Chassis wiring.
Towed unit electrical requirements above 6 amps that is spliced into chassis wiring can
overload the chassis turn signal and/or 4 way flasher switch resulting in switch continued
failure. There are market kits that use relays such that the operating current does not go
through the turn signal or 4-way flasher switch. These relay kits are recommended in
place of cutting into chassis wiring.
Thank you so much, this explains a lot. I use the connector that came with the motor home but it is simply spliced in to the chassis wiring.

When I first got the motor home, I hooked up my trailer and promptly started blowing fuses for the lights. The brain dead morons that built it had a 5 amp fuse running all the lights on the back of the motor home in addition to the trailer connector. I put a relay on the trailer connector for the lights.

Now I guess that I need to do it for the turn signals also.

Which section of the chassis guide did this info come from? I have been looking through mine but haven't found it.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
bruceh is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2011, 12:24 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2010
Location: BAR-BOB Ranch, San Bernard River Valley, Texas
Posts: 777
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
Which section of the chassis guide did this info come from? I have been looking through mine but haven't found it.
Page 8
__________________
ctpres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2011, 01:12 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
bruceh's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctpres View Post
Page 8
I must have a different page 8. Mine is listed as having been revised Feb 2004. Going online looking for a newer one.

OK, just loaded the latest one and there it is!
Another project is born. Luckily I have some
Bosch relays left over from another project.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
bruceh is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2011, 04:29 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
bruceh's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 609
OK, I am done and the four way flashers are working again. Here are the modifications that I made to the procedure that I got from fulltimers (thanks again, the procedures gave me the courage to rip into it).

Thanks also to ctpres for the infomation about the Workhorse caveats about the switch, relays are next.

Thanks also to oemy for cross to Autozone SW952. It was $177 and has a lifetime guarantee. The AC Delco part was lited at $253 and I never even checked Workhorse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Full-Timers View Post
Multifunction Turn Signal Lever Replacement



Removal Procedure

1. Remove the tilt lever by pulling the tilt lever straight out from the steering column tilt latch.

2. Remove the lower steering column cover by removing the two screws from the lower steering cover.
These two screws are on the underside and are Torx 25. The panels lock together and must be gently disengaged from each other.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Full-Timers View Post
3. Remove the two screws from the upper steering column cover to access the top of the steering column.
These are also Torx but are male rather than female. I bought Torx sockets at Harbor Freight. One of the screws is deeply recessed and hard to see/work with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Full-Timers View Post
3. Remove the lock cylinder by
Place the ignition cylinder in the run position.
Install an awl into the access hole at the top of the steering column.
Turn the ignition cylinder to the start position and remove the ignition cylinder.
I found this step to be unnecessary. I wiggled the upper panel out from under the steeering wheel and (gently) angled it over the ignition cylinder.

The bottom panel (closest to the dash) needs to be removed to get access to the connector.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Full-Timers View Post

4. Remove the upper steering column cover.

5. Remove the multifunction lever bolts and lever from the steering column.
One of these bolts is a bugger to get to since it is under the steering wheel and there is very little clearance. I made up a tool to reach it. It is an 8mm wrench on one of those tools (T-25 again see picture below) you get in sets all over the place.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Full-Timers View Post
6. Disconnect the multifunction lever electrical connector.
This sounds simple but the connector must be unbolted (second picture). A 7mm socket did the job. Once it it unbolted, the connectors have to be slid out the front after putting a small screwdriver under the retainer, don't pull.

The installation is pretty straight forward and the following steps will work skipping the ignition cylinder stuff, of course.

If you don't disconnect the battery (I didn't), the horn will honk as you locate the new switch into place.

This all sounds kind of hairy but it really wasn't that hard. I am retired and not in a hurry so I didn't rush it and do something stupid.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Full-Timers View Post
Installation Procedure

1. Connect the multifunction lever electrical connector.

2. Install the multifunction lever and bolts to the steering column.

3. Install the upper steering column cover.

4. Install the ignition cylinder by pushing into the cylinder case, position ignition to the run position.

5. Install the lower steering column cover.

6. Push the till lever into the steering column tilt latch.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2011-09-29_11-18-28_301.jpg
Views:	35
Size:	64.0 KB
ID:	14342   Click image for larger version

Name:	2011-09-29_10-07-52_949.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	117.8 KB
ID:	14343  

__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
bruceh is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2011, 04:43 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
bruceh's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 609
I had to answer the question of how to prevent this from happening again. I hate turning on my hazards and having nothing. Even with the lifetime guantee on the new switch, I didn't want the hassle of doing this again.

Armed with new knowledge, thanks to ctpres, I added relays between the switches (turn signal and hazards) and the rear lights/trailer connector.

The hardest part was drilling through the cross member to bolt down the relays. Luckily, there was enough wire to reach the relays and back without splicing. Running the new hot wire to the battery was a patience job, not difficult but time consuming. Being a little paranoid with hot leads, I wrapped it in sprial wrap and fused it at the battery.

The wires coming from the switches pick the relay applying a good 12 volts (12 ga wire straight to the battery) to the rear lights and trailer connector. The lights are actually brighter. I can include wiring diagrams if anyone feels that it is necessary.

The wires can be easily found. There is a connector just behind the gas tank on the left side. The yellow and green wires are the ones to use. I have pictures in anybody is interested.

It is kind of annoying to get this information after I have owned the motor home for 9 years and gone through 4 switches. With any luck at all, this is a permanent fix. My earlier manual made no mention of this.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
bruceh is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2011, 04:59 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Full-Timers's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Everywhere,USA
Posts: 1,134
Sounds like you got it covered.
Thanks for the info.
__________________
Full-Timers
in a
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W22 Workhorse
Full-Timers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2011, 08:53 PM   #27
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
I was wondering

Has any one tried the Aftermarket switchs whit a positive result? Advance Auto has a switch for $221 with a lifetme warrentee. Has anybody had any luck with Autozone, Advance Auto or Napa brand switches or do you just use OEM / AC Delco?
__________________
dschmelz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2011, 10:57 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
bruceh's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 609
see post of 9/29
__________________

__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
bruceh is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water Pump Switch coulter6 National RV Owner's Forum 4 05-21-2010 05:07 PM
Discovery Windshield Wiper Switch Volunteer MH-General Discussions & Problems 4 04-16-2009 07:58 AM
Brake light switch installation and part number GTHill Alpine Coach Forum 12 01-29-2009 08:15 AM
"Radio Power" Switch Inoperable; any Ideas? FDchief Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 3 09-20-2008 08:25 AM
Allison 1000 Overdrive On/Off Switch troth Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 31 07-12-2006 10:53 AM

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

RV & Travel Trailer Communities

Our RV & Travel Trailer sites encompasses virtually all types of Recreational Vehicles, from brand-specific to general RV communities.

» More about our RV Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002-2012 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.