Mysterious engine shutdown and Chinese fuel pump (sorry, long story)

[classic60]

Greetings all,
Relatively new to this site and find that it is my "go to site" anytime I have a question or issue with my RV.

I just returned from a round trip from San Diego to Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore. Anticipating the miles and "terrain" I would be covering, after reading information from this site, both pro and con, I decided to swing by Redlands Truck & RV to get the ultrapower program, plugs, & wires. While there, I decided to have them install a Safe T-Plus. The work was completed by days end. As I left the shop on got on the 10, I noted that my coach wanted to go left so I had to steer slightly right. I attributed this to the wind, the road or something and asumed it would correct itself once I got on a "level road"

I left Redlands the following day, proceeded north on the 15 and begin to ascend the Cajon pass. At this time, I really didn't notice any difference in power and the coach continued to drift left. It was a fairly warm day and was ascending a moderate grade south of Cedar City Utah when I noticed my thottle was not responding and the coach began to lose power. Fortunately, I made it to the top of the grade and began decending towards the next exit which I took. When I got to the stop sign, the engine shut down. At no time did any instrument lights go off nor were there any messages on my cluster.

As I sat there at the stop sign, I thought to myself, this is what I get for messing with the factory specs the day prior to a trip. I managed to resatrt the coach and pulled over into a safe location. Out of frustration, I called Redlands RV to see if there was some magical trick such as turning on the key twice, stomping on the gas, etc etc that might return the factory specs. In the absence of any codes or lights, Redlands Rv said it did not appear to be related to their work. By now, It was late Friday, I managed to restart the coach and made it into Cedar City where I spent the night.

There is a Chev dealer in Cedar City but Service was closed on Saturday. I was able to restart the coach and it appeared to run fine so I got back on the road. I made it to Yellowstone without any more problems. After a few days in Yellowstone, I got back on the road headed towards S Dakota. Another hot day and another pass when it happened again, loss of power, throttle would not respond, no warning lights, engine died. I made it to the shoulder where after about 10 minutes, I restarted and got back on the road again. A few days later, we began the trek home.

Everything was going fine until I approached the California/Nevada State line. This time, no grade but it was about 110 degrees and it happended again. Thinking all I had to do is wait a few minutes and I would be on the road, I sat for a while but this time, the engine would not restart. I had to be towed into vegas on a saturday night.

Ok, to make a long story short, becuase I needed to get back to San Diego and I knew I would not find a service center on Sunday, I found a mobile mechanic who would come to me. He tried to replicate the engine failure but by now, it appeared it had cooled down and was idling fine. In the end, he concluded that the fuel pump was most likley the culprit as he said he could hear it "surging"

He managed to get my extended warrant company to pay $1,200 for a new pump and labor but I had to pay him cash and I would have to submit a claim later. I asked him to leave me the old pump which he placed in the empty new pump box.

I made it to San Diego without incident. When I got home, I noticed the box of the new pump was a Spectrum brand made in China. He indicated to me he would be using OEM type parts.

As far as I'm concerned, it was never conclusively shown that the problem was in fact the fuel pump. If it wasn't, I'm afraid that I might be subject to another episode of what I just went through. Also, I have no idea as to the quality of this pump. I see that online retailers sell them for under $200 shipped.

Any and all comments/input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Marco
2003 Bounder
W22 Workhorse 8.1L
18K miles

[oemtech]

1) Welcome to IRV2....
2) I hope the problem is resolved
3) Does the box have a part number on it and/or does he old fuel pump have a part # on it?

[PASODAVE]

Had precisely the same problem only mine was on a Ford chassis. I have heard of the same problem before with the Chevy. After traversing Loveland Pass (12,500'), hot desert and the like, I finally got the pump replaced in Flagstaff, Az.

Thr problem is the fuel pump (mine was in tank, a real pain) and everyone EXCEPT owners were advised of the problem. This was obviously a very poor design by both Ford and GM, but they did not care.

I'm not surprised that the pumps are now made in China, but I bet they aren't any worse than what came before from who knows where.

[TrekPR]

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe Carter sells fuel pumps that are plug in ready and made in the USA.

[classic60]

The new pump is a Spectra SP6100M. I looked it up online and it does resemble the old unit.

In looking at the pump that was removed, I was really surprised on what struck me as such a flimsy plastic/lightweight looking unit. I guess for an RV, I expected something that at least appeared to have more muscle or heavier duty. This unit sits inside the tank and the tank had to be dropped in order to remove/replace.

I too realize that more and more items are being made in China but I usually consider these chinese parts as cheap, inexpensive and of questionable quality and I'm having a hard time accepting the idea that such a critical part of my RV may be of an inferior quality and it may be sooner than later when I'm left stranded again.

I'm debating if I should change out this pump when it is convenient to me if a pump of a better quality is available. Also, I don't know if it was in my head by now but the coach appeared to have a little more power on the road from Vegas to San Diego with the new pump.

[mike brez]

If the rv is pulling to one side or the other you just need to adjust the safe t plus 1/8 inch or so to correct it. You have not noticed any power increase from the Ultra Power,plus and wires??

[mike brez]

I have droped my tank a few times and wish i cut a hole in the floor under the bed for access to the top of the tank to the fuel pump/sending unit hole. Most of that 1200.00 is labor for draining the tank and droping it. Some on here dont think these pumps just go bad.






Quote:
Originally Posted by RottenRalph

Mike Brez

After seeing the sock filter on the pump's pick up tube and the grit in the bottom of the tank, I think cutting a hole in the floor would be pointless. Seems if the pump goes bad you should always drain and clean the tank or face the same issue sooner than later.











You dont need grit in the tank for the pump to go bad and I doubt you have removed half the crap that was in the tank.
__________________
1994 PaceArrow 33L,454,P32

2002 F250 CC 7.3 PSD Highly Modified

[DriVer]

Dropping the tank is the most reasonable approach in replacing the fuel pump. Once taken down the tank should then be inspected and cleaned as suggested.

My tank was removed and replaced 3 times due to a leak in the cap plug on the opposite of the fill pipe. Originally I had developed a pin hole leak IVO the tank strap. The DW found it while walking Roxy.

The fuel tank was replaced.

My fuel pump - "original" - 80,933 miles.

[mike brez]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer Dropping the tank is the most reasonable approach in replacing the fuel pump.

Its the only approach unless you have a access hole.

[classic60]

Mike et al,

While on the road, I spoke to Redlands Truck & RV about the pulling. They advised that I could adjust it be moving it 1/8" as you stated. I tried it and probably went too far and now it pulled in the opposite direction. I made several adjustments trying to find the point where it would steer straight if I let go of the wheel. I drove numerous roads and under conditions with little if no wind but could not find the right spot apparently.

I stopped at Redlands RV on my way home where they made the "proper" adjustment. On my way home to San Diego, I noticed it was now back to the original condition as when I left Redlands RV to start my trip, slight pull to left. Inflation is good, weight is "normal" and the coach steered striaght prior to the installation of the Safe T-Plus.

I want to say that after the new fuel pump was installed in Vegas, I did sense a slight increase in power.

I've read the postings which presnt the theory that dirty gas tanks may be a cause of pump failures. If so, I'm probably in trouble as the mobile mechanics, working in the parking lot of a hotel, drained my FULL 75 gallon tank in to 55 gallons drums. I know they didn't clean my gas tank appropriately and who knows what may have been in those 55 gl drums that got pumped back in to my tank.

A new question comes to mind. If I drop my tank now that it's almost empty, how would I clean it or is this something that has to be done professionally?

[oemtech]

I have updated the Workhorse Xref to add the fuel pump part number and photo.

[mike brez]

Quote:

Originally Posted by classic60 Mike et al, While on the road, I spoke to Redlands Truck & RV about the pulling. They advised that I could adjust it be moving it 1/8" as you stated. I tried it and probably went too far and now it pulled in the opposite direction. I made several adjustments trying to find the point where it would steer straight if I let go of the wheel. I drove numerous roads and under conditions with little if no wind but could not find the right spot apparently. I stopped at Redlands RV on my way home where they made the "proper" adjustment. On my way home to San Diego, I noticed it was now back to the original condition as when I left Redlands RV to start my trip, slight pull to left. Inflation is good, weight is "normal" and the coach steered striaght prior to the installation of the Safe T-Plus. I want to say that after the new fuel pump was installed in Vegas, I did sense a slight increase in power. I've read the postings which presnt the theory that dirty gas tanks may be a cause of pump failures. If so, I'm probably in trouble as the mobile mechanics, working in the parking lot of a hotel, drained my FULL 75 gallon tank in to 55 gallons drums. I know they didn't clean my gas tank appropriately and who knows what may have been in those 55 gl drums that got pumped back in to my tank. A new question comes to mind. If I drop my tank now that it's almost empty, how would I clean it or is this something that has to be done professionally?

Do you have a fuel filter on the chassis rail? and was it changed? It is very hard to clean and get the crap out of these tanks. Mine had two or three baffels in it that made it near impossible. After my second try at cleaning it once on my own and once by a radiator shop i sent my tank out to PA were they cut the top off removed the plactic fuel pump tray and welded in a ss one then welded it back up coated it and then baked it.

[mike brez]

Just got me thinking. If I have a chassis mounted fuel pump and I it burns out and I change it should I drop the tank and clean it out?

[scoutmstr]

Classic 60 Does the old fuel pump have any part number on it? And does the new Spectra work?

I went onto Spectra website and it lists that fuel pump for a 454 not a 8.1. I'm not saying it's the wrong fuel pump but I've been trying for a couple of years to find a fuel pump for an 8.1 with a 80 gal tank that doesnt have a Workhorse number.