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Old 05-14-2013, 07:29 PM   #1
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New to the Workhorse Chassis

Hi all,

I recently purchased a 2003 W22 Winnebago Adventurer 33V. I love the power of the 8.1 hooked to the Allison 5 spd. trans.

However...on our first long trip (that we're on right now), I've had a 40 amp ignition fuse blow while I was sitting with the engine running, in drive with my foot on the brake. Thru a little deduction and the fuse panel layout I saw the fuse, tested it and it was blown. Bought a new one and replaced it and good to go and no trouble since. (don't know why it blew)

We literally put the new fuse in and drove across the street and parked in an Rv site for 3 days. While we were hooking up to leave and testing the toad lights, I discovered I had no turn signals, flashers were working ok.

I replaced the flasher unit and still no joy. Moved on to the next town and had a recommended automotive shop look at it and they got it working. (they told me the fuse was blown and the flasher was dead which took them nearly an hour and half to find) Drove on to our next place to stay and parked, had to take the motorhome out 2 days later for some service and once again no turn signals. Fuse is good, so I'll put another flasher in and see what happens. I read somewhere that this might be a problem with Workhorse chassis...any thoughts?
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:41 PM   #2
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what position is your hazzard indicator in?
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:38 PM   #3
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Is the Toad wired with diodes to prevent back feeding from the toad 12v?

Tail Light Isolating Diodes (Qty 4) Hopkins Accessories and Parts 48955
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:45 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCIslander View Post
Hi all,

I recently purchased a 2003 W22 Winnebago Adventurer 33V. I love the power of the 8.1 hooked to the Allison 5 spd. trans.
Welcome to iRV2.com and the Workhorse forum in particular! Glad you joined and posted.

In addition to all the great feedback you'll get here, there is another group of owners who are members of the WCMC (Workhorse Chassis Motorhome Club) a chapter of FMCA's INTO area. The club's website is www.workhorseclub.com and if you join you can see lots of info about workhorse chassis and will also be eligible to attend our member rallies. The next one is planned for Myrtle Beach in October, followed by one in Bakersfield in November.

Again, WELCOME !
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:50 PM   #5
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Hi & welcome to the great Workhorse forum!!!

You don't say what quit when the fuse blew. There's two or three 40 amp fuses.

On my 2004 Chieftain last summer on vacation, I blew a 40 amp fuse and nearly everything quit in the dash area. Engine and all else kept running so I kept driving til I got to the next little town. It was about 108 deg outside & I had the dash a/c on high and the two windshield fans on high and probably something else turned on that all quit when the fuse blew. The auto parts store only had 50 amp so that's what I used and it's been in there ever since. My conclusion is that Winnebago tied too many accessories to the main dash fuse, namely the two dash fans that pull a good deal of current when running on high speed. That, and the excessive heat took out the fuse.

Happy Trails,
Bill
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:35 PM   #6
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In the case of the 40 amp fuse, it was labelled Ignition. We had Air on, but not much else, no running lights. We had driven from Port Angeles Washington to Forks (57 miles) and had just pulled into a mall parking lot and stopped, engine running and foot on the brake. While we waited for a car to pass so we could continue, I watched the RPM drop to zero. When I tried to re-start...no nothing but a relay click.

In answer to the toad question. I have a separate lighting system that connects right to the coach. It doesn't use the wiring of the tow car at all. So there is two extra light bulbs running straight off the coach.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:52 PM   #7
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Update...I checked the turn signal 15 Amp fuse and it was blown again. I also located both flashers, so I know where the signal flasher and 4 way flasher is.

New fuse and the signals work again...so far. I couldn't find any acutely visible wiring problem...so we wait to see what happens next.

Thanks
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:06 AM   #8
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Welcome BC to irv2.
Have you checked wiring under the coach chassis for wiring that may have come intact with the hot exhaust system pipes that need to be cleared and tied up.
Wiring can come loose in 7 pin rear jack and short to ground even if you do not use it, road vibration will loosen up the screws.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:48 AM   #9
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may have broken wire at steering wheel. Do you use the tilt adjustment often?




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Old 05-25-2013, 03:49 PM   #10
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This time the 15 amp fuse went again after hooking up the car. Signals were working when we disconnected and weren't working after. I put a new fuse in and it blew immediately...and again with the next fuse. Unfortunately, it also deposited some solder in the fuse holder.

I hope to take it in somewhere (in Napa) to get this resolved this week. Have you ever noticed that most GM dealers don't want to work on your GM Chassis motor home? Most often refer you to the place down the road.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
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This time the 15 amp fuse went again after hooking up the car. Signals were working when we disconnected and weren't working after. I put a new fuse in and it blew immediately...and again with the next fuse. Unfortunately, it also deposited some solder in the fuse holder.

I hope to take it in somewhere (in Napa) to get this resolved this week. Have you ever noticed that most GM dealers don't want to work on your GM Chassis motor home? Most often refer you to the place down the road.
I would check the connectors on both end of the cable that goes to the car. Maybe there is a loose wire or stray strands of copper shorting out, but just intermittently.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I hope to take it in somewhere (in Napa) to get this resolved this week. Have you ever noticed that most GM dealers don't want to work on your GM Chassis motor home? Most often refer you to the place down the road.
Unless you're talking about a pre-1999 Chevy P32 MH chassis, it ain't a "GM",............ its a Workhorse. Totally different company.

You will find a list of Workhorse service centers HERE: http://www.workhorse.com/Default.aspx?tabid=81

Good luck finding the short !
Ed
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:05 PM   #13
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Before you go to service center check this out.
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:27 AM   #14
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Be very careful using chassis power to light toad. The multi-function switch is very expensive.
"From Workhorse 2009 version manual page 8."
Improper wiring to towed unit can cause chassis and towed unit electrical problems.
Towed unit wiring is often added and is often spliced into Workhorse Chassis wiring.
Towed unit electrical requirements above 6 amps that is spliced into chassis wiring can
overload the chassis turn signal and/or 4 way flasher switch resulting in switch continued
failure. There are market kits that use relays such that the operating current does not go
through the turn signal or 4-way flasher switch. These relay kits are recommended in
place of cutting into chassis wiring
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