No Nuthin

[DaveBills]

Originally Posted by DriVer

On my Winnebago, there isn't any configuaration of the chassis or the coach body that will prevent the engine from starting normally.

If it doesn't start - something broke.

Thanks Driver, I was afraid of that and was leaning that way myself. I'm just trying to eliminate easy stuff that I don't know about. I've only had a motorhome about a year so I'm pretty green and have allot to learn. Key switch, breaker, selenoid, starter. Anything else?

[DriVer]

Originally Posted by DaveBills

Thanks Driver, I was afraid of that and was leaning that way myself. I'm just trying to eliminate easy stuff that I don't know about. I've only had a motorhome about a year so I'm pretty green and have allot to learn. Key switch, breaker, solenoid, starter. Anything else?

DaveBills, The most obvious items that need to be ruled out are the battery itself and the battery cables. There is a switch on the side of the transmission called an NSBU (Neutral safety) that might be problematic but not likely. I'm sure that your issue is something else.

You may also elect to rotate the relays in the outside panel. One is labeled Start(er). Rule that out as well. I had a bad solenoid on my starter that presented in the same manner as you are documenting. Turn the key and nothing. Mechanic went under the rig and directly bumped the starter using a wire and this moved the position on the slip ring and the starter worked for a number of weeks until it stopped on the dead spot again. Short solution - replace starter. It's been fine for the past 4 years.

There may be additional diagnostics that can be applied including replacing the automotive battery if it is determined that it may not deliver the ampacity that the starer needs to turn over. When the battery fails in this manner, it should at least allow the starter to grunt.

Have you been able to start the vehicle using the emergency switch to the coach batteries?

[wa8yxm]

Back when I had a car we once had a bit of problem getting onto a site,, Well my wife went to move the car and it would not start for her.

Yup. To use a line from an old joke ... She had it in D for Drag.

[DaveBills]

I want to thank you all for the feed back. I've noted every single idea and in the morning I'm going to seriously try to sort this thing out. (Yeah that means wallerng around under it) All your ideas will be invaluable. When I get it sorted out I'll post the solution to the puzzle.

I didn't join this site just for this folks, I mean the mechanical, I am a gear head, have been all my life, but I have tons of interest. That's why I joined this site.

At this stage of my life I'm looking for a reliable motorhome and it is my intent to travel this great country and see it from one end to the other. But to do that I feel that I need to understand the unit we're in and trust it and most importantly trust my knowledge of it to be confident enough so I can just load it up and head west or south, or where ever. Much to see, many good people to get to know, we have already seen more beauty and odd things that God has created and we both want to see more. We,ve already met people from all over the country and made some friends.

So, point is, Hello, thank you all, looking forward to meeting you all and shaking your hands. Thanks for the Workhorse101 classes, I hope there's no bill.

[RedGrizz]

Battery terminals should be checked 1st as mentioned. and trying the AUX battery switch is good.
You can check the power & wiring to the starter in this way...
Put Vehicle in Park, Set Parking brake. Use your volt meter and check the large terminal on the starter for battery voltage. 12.5 or higher is preferred.(Meter Red lead to terminal, Black to a good ground)
Have co pilot turn the key to "start" while monitoring the voltage at the large starter terminal. If voltage remains above 12V you have sufficient battery voltage to the starter.
If not, double check battery cables and connections or voltage at chassis battery while trying to start.
If you have good voltage at the large terminal you can then check the small terminal on the starter for voltage when you turn the key to start, this is the energize terminal for starter engagement. If you have good voltage at both terminals while turning to start then you have a starter issue. If this is the case you can give the starter a good rap on the side while holding the key in the start position. Sometimes it will wake up but should be replaced.
Of course safety first. Vehicle on ground or supported, In Park with brake on. The suggestions in the other posts are also a possibility Just tossing in another scenario.
Let us know how it goes.
RG

[tx2stroke]

Don't forget to check your ground connections also.A bad ground connection may turn on the dash lights fine,but not carry starter voltage.

[DriVer]

Originally Posted by tx2stroke

Don't forget to check your ground connections also.A bad ground connection may turn on the dash lights fine,but not carry starter voltage.

tx2stroke, I agree with you 100% in regard to the ground. The lowest common denominator is always the ground. One thing I would add is that you can get plenty of volts on a lug but what I believe is the boss here is the amps.

[DaveBills]

I'm afraid I'm going to have to do more digging. ALL of the ideas and suggestions you folks gave me brought no resolution to my problem. I am going to run test wires directly to the starter from another vehicle and test the starter with no interfereance from any other source. Then I guess I'll need to either start at the key end or the starter end and check every wire and replace all the breakers and selenoids I come to until I have figured it out. Could be worse, it's been beautiful weather and there's more room under the unit than it looked. Soooo, how's every one else getting along.

[jfran304]

Originally Posted by DaveBills

I'm afraid I'm going to have to do more digging. ALL of the ideas and suggestions you folks gave me brought no resolution to my problem. I am going to run test wires directly to the starter from another vehicle and test the starter with no interfereance from any other source. Then I guess I'll need to either start at the key end or the starter end and check every wire and replace all the breakers and selenoids I come to until I have figured it out. Could be worse, it's been beautiful weather and there's more room under the unit than it looked. Soooo, how's every one else getting along.

Dave,
I can't remember where/who posted it but they had a similar problem and found that the starter solenoid was bad. Try starting it by shorting out the solenoid to find out if it is bad.

I don't know if it can still be done but I used to take the solenoid apart on my GM vehicles, rotate the contacts inside to save some money. I would buy a new one for when it quit working the next time

Good Luck,

Jon

[Bruce C]

jafran,
I did that on my old chevy dump truck, a mechanic friend said not the problem. It's been 4 or 5 years still starts. He doesn't like it when I remind him. But the solenoid could be his problem. I hope he finds it without to much cost.

[max49]

I would check the "neutral start switch"

[JayGee]

I wonder if the problem was resolved.

[DaveBills]

No sir the problem has not been resolved, I've had to take my wife back and forth to the hospital and she had surgery last week. I plan on getting back into this this week.

[jfran304]

Originally Posted by DaveBills

No sir the problem has not been resolved, I've had to take my wife back and forth to the hospital and she had surgery last week. I plan on getting back into this this week.

Hope your wife's surgery was a success and she has a quick recovery.

Jon