Not doing Mobil 1 synthetic anymore

[FullAstern]

I've started using conventional oil instead of Mobil 1 synthetic. I have a 2004 Acura RL. Folks who know cars will testify that this is a pretty well put together vehicle. It's built like an anvil. I changed to Mobil 1 about 20,000 miles ago and started to notice a lot of valve noise on cold morning startups. It went away completely when warm. I took it to the dealer and he changed me back to conventional oil...noise pretty much gone. I looked at the 8.1 liter engine in my WH P32...the one that's always had piston slap and rattle on startup for a minute or so on cold start; the one that has about 12,000 miles in it that I've used Mobil 1 synthetic in since break in. I changed to Catrol GTX and guess what? The noise on cold startup is dramatically reduced and what noise there is disappears more quickly. The oil pressure is also a bit higher until fully warm, then it's about where it was. I'm not sure if that's good or bad.
Years ago I used to road race motorcycles. I had a 1984 Yamaha FJ1100 that we punched to to 1425 and spent money that I wish I now wish I had put in my 401K. I changed to a synthetic oil that was said to be specifically aimed at motorcycle engines called "Golden Spectro"; I'm not sure if its even around anymore but it did several things. It gave me a new transmission; remember, motorcycles run a unified engine and transmission sump. The transmission shifted so much better it wasn't even funny. It also developed valve rattle on cold startup. I called the oil company and they said it was because the oil drained back into the sump much more quickly and completely than conventional oil. For some reason that satisfied me and I didn't think anymore about it but thinking on it now, I'm not sure that makes any sense at all. Anyway, I've seen this behavior whenever I've changed to and from synthetic oil. If I use synthetic oil (almost always Mobil 1)I always get valve rattle when cold where I don't with conventional oil.
Has anyone else experienced this?

[FullAstern]

I've started using conventional oil instead of Mobil 1 synthetic. I have a 2004 Acura RL. Folks who know cars will testify that this is a pretty well put together vehicle. It's built like an anvil. I changed to Mobil 1 about 20,000 miles ago and started to notice a lot of valve noise on cold morning startups. It went away completely when warm. I took it to the dealer and he changed me back to conventional oil...noise pretty much gone. I looked at the 8.1 liter engine in my WH P32...the one that's always had piston slap and rattle on startup for a minute or so on cold start; the one that has about 12,000 miles in it that I've used Mobil 1 synthetic in since break in. I changed to Catrol GTX and guess what? The noise on cold startup is dramatically reduced and what noise there is disappears more quickly. The oil pressure is also a bit higher until fully warm, then it's about where it was. I'm not sure if that's good or bad.
Years ago I used to road race motorcycles. I had a 1984 Yamaha FJ1100 that we punched to to 1425 and spent money that I wish I now wish I had put in my 401K. I changed to a synthetic oil that was said to be specifically aimed at motorcycle engines called "Golden Spectro"; I'm not sure if its even around anymore but it did several things. It gave me a new transmission; remember, motorcycles run a unified engine and transmission sump. The transmission shifted so much better it wasn't even funny. It also developed valve rattle on cold startup. I called the oil company and they said it was because the oil drained back into the sump much more quickly and completely than conventional oil. For some reason that satisfied me and I didn't think anymore about it but thinking on it now, I'm not sure that makes any sense at all. Anyway, I've seen this behavior whenever I've changed to and from synthetic oil. If I use synthetic oil (almost always Mobil 1)I always get valve rattle when cold where I don't with conventional oil.
Has anyone else experienced this?

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FullAstern:
If I use synthetic oil (almost always Mobil 1)I always get valve rattle when cold where I don't with conventional oil. Has anyone else experienced this? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>FullAstern,

Currently Workhorse will suggest that you can go 7500 miles in between routine oil changes using mineral or dinosaur oil. This is more than double the service life we have seen up until very recently.

A couple of days ago I went to NAPA as I was looking for a 10W-30 M1 and right next to it for about a buck less was NAPA fully synthetic oil. I bought the NAPA synthetic and I'm going to give that a try the next time I change my oil. The NAPA Gold (Wix) filter will most likely be the available filter that I will use for this round of maintenance.

For many reasons, synthetic motor oil is the better lubricant and I just don't feel comfortable going back.

I see where you said that you began using synthetic in your motor at break in, how many miles did you have when you started using M1? I had 15,000 miles.

I can not speak to why the dinosaur oil quiets down the initial start up process however that event is short in duration as opposed to extended vehicle operation for hours at a time. Personally, I will continue to use synthetic oil.

[Tom N]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
Currently Workhorse will suggest that you can go 7500 miles in between routine oil changes using mineral or dinosaur oil. This is more than double the service life we have seen up until very recently. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Does Workhorse have a document stating this???

-Tom

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
Does Workhorse have a document stating this??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Tom, I'm sure if we look real hard we will find that this is GM's idea and not Workhorse's. Whatever works for GM works for Workhorse and that works for me in a working kind of way. "Word!"

[rgrstndgby]

FullAstern, is everything else constant in this experience.? Im mainly thinking oil filters, and viscosity.. Cant tell you how many defective filters I've seen "back in the day".Drainback valves, and Bypass valves...rgr..

[John-D]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:


Does Workhorse have a document stating this???

-Tom </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well, that is what it says in my OWNER's MANUAL (2005 Damon Intruder, W-22, 8.1 chassis shipped in Aug 2004)


To the valve noise issue.

The reason dino oil has viscosity ratings like 10W40 is this, When it's cold it's 10 weight, however 10 weight oil at 70 degrees is fairly heavy and slow moving, As it heats up though it makes water look thick, 40 weight is a bit thicker at higher temps, but at "room temp" it resembles axle grease (Ok, Ok, I am exaggerating somewhat but you get the point)

Synthetics don't change viscosity like the dino oil does so at low temps they flow more easily, this means the oil pump can get them to where they are needed quicker and the engine has less "Dry" time, also at hotter temps they cling better to the parts, so they do not drain off like Dino oils do again resulting in less "Dry" time.

(This accounts for dino oil having a slightly higher pressure when cold by the way YOU NEED MORE PRESSURE to get it to the cylinders, bearings and stuff)

The valve lifters drain more fully when the engine is off with Synthetic and since the pressure is a bit lower don't re-fill as fast.

[Thudman]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">A couple of days ago I went to NAPA as I was looking for a 10W-30 M1 and right next to it for about a buck less was NAPA fully synthetic oil. I bought the NAPA synthetic and I'm going to give that a try the next time I change my oil. The NAPA Gold (Wix) filter will most likely be the available filter that I will use for this round of maintenance. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

DriVer:
I noted the 10W-30 M1 weight (don't know what M1 means). I'm about to switch to synthetic Mobil 1, 5W-30 per Workhorse spec (now have 26200 miles, all with Dino 5W-30, no noises, nearly zero consumption between changes at 3000 mi {maybe half qt}). Any particular reason why you are into 10W-30?

Thudman

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John-D:
The reason dino oil has viscosity ratings like 10W40 is this, When it's cold it's 10 weight, however 10 weight oil at 70 degrees is fairly heavy and slow moving, As it heats up though it makes water look thick, 40 weight is a bit thicker at higher temps.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I think you made a very good point. That said, Please don't use 40W oil in the 8.1L just to avoid any confusion on the part of any other readers.

You may use either 5W-30 or 10W-30 never 40.

[FullAstern]

rgrstndgby: Everything else is consistent. I used either WIX or Pure One filters on the RV and on the Acura I only used OEM. Now one thing I need to emphasize, the ACURA dealership asked if I was using Mobil 1. I said yes, and they suggested I change it. The only thing I can tell you is that I absolutely guarantee that if I go back to Mobil 1 on either vehicle I'll get a major increase in valve noise for a minute or two on start up. Is that bad? After a brief period on they are both absolutely silent.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Thudman:
I noted the 10W-30 M1 weight (don't know what M1 means). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>M1=Mobil One abbreviation

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Any particular reason why you are into 10W-30? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Geographic location. You can run 10W-30 "IF" you don't experience temperatures below "0" degrees Fahrenheit. Anything less than that requires 5W.

It doesn't get that cold here. Plus Chris Christy told me he likes 10W. Chris is retired now.

[Wallaby Dan]

I know that we aere talking about MH's but, I had a very interesting time about two years ago when I had a Suzuki with the V-6 and had a little over 130,000 miles when it was totaled. I used Valoline 10W30 in it and synthetic oil. On trip had switched to Mobil 1 And used three quarts on 3000 miles! Switched back to Valoline, and the next 3000 miles, Still full? I checked for leaks and nothing, Am afraid to switch again. Can there be that much difference between oils, being Synthetic? I was thinking about using Mobil 1 in my truck but am wondering about the usage? Also the new engine in our MH after break in? Should I stick with Valoline, or maybe Castor synthetic? I have the older P-30 with 454-V8 and all new now.

[knebrdr]

Oil consumption after changing oil types (dino to syn or vice versa) or manufacturers (Quaker State to Valvoline) is not uncommon. What usually occurs is the the difference in the additive packages from one oil to the other causes a hybrid additive package and the incompatibility of the additives causes the oil consumption to occur. The oil consumption problem will usually disappear after the 2nd or 3rd change with the new oil type.
Now, who would like to know about the decrease in zinc and phosphorous in todays motor oils and its effect on high load items? This is the reason I run only diesel spec 15/40 oil. They have not yet been stripped of these necessary additives.
Randy

[dieselclacker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Capt. Dan:
I know that we aere talking about MH's but, I had a very interesting time about two years ago when I had a Suzuki with the V-6 and had a little over 130,000 miles when it was totaled. I used Valoline 10W30 in it and synthetic oil. On trip had switched to Mobil 1 And used three quarts on 3000 miles! Switched back to Valoline, and the next 3000 miles, Still full? I checked for leaks and nothing, Am afraid to switch again. Can there be that much difference between oils, being Synthetic? I was thinking about using Mobil 1 in my truck but am wondering about the usage? Also the new engine in our MH after break in? Should I stick with Valoline, or maybe Castor synthetic? I have the older P-30 with 454-V8 and all new now. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Capt Dan, I have been running Mobil 1 10/W30 in my 8.1 for about 12000 miles now with no problems. I change oil at 5000 mile intervals, and I usually add one quart between changes, plus it is a little low at change time. I also have a Suzuki Grand Vitara with V-6 that I use Mobil 1 in, and have not expierienced any oil consumption problems after 60,000 miles. Same for my daughters Ford Mustang 4.0 V-6. 5000 mile intervals on cars also. No noises on start up, and no oil consumption between changes. I have owned two 454 Chevrolet powered motorhomes, and did experience some oil consumption in both of them between changes. I think 454 engines are prone to let oil get past valve stem seals. Not a problem as long as you are aware of it and don't let engine get down over a quart.

Dieselclacker