Community Forums

KayLarGo · 11-13-2007, 05:24 PM

bruceh --- so sorry to here of your problems. We also have a workhorse and are in Pahrump to day and for two more nights as it stands. We are at Terribles Lakeside resort. We went to Death Vally today with our friends here that gave us a tour. Noticed the cell service there. If we can help let me know.

Larry

bruceh · 11-13-2007, 06:53 PM

Now that I am home, I have speedy internet. I drove home since the closest crate engine was in Michigan and there was 5 day delivery. That bumps into Thanksgiving and I didn't want to hurry anybody.

One question was about my oil pressure. I never saw any change even after limping into the dealership (from the tow truck). As I recall, it was 40+ cold.

There was a lot of discussion on rebuild/replace. One of the things that sold me on replace was the fact that I would roll out of there with a 5 year/100K warranty good all over the country. The rebuild carried a 1 year/12K warranty. Had I gone to some local shop, they might have done an acceptable bandaid, or maybe not. With the places that I go with this MoHo, I don't want to be sweating everytime I go remote.

I was quoted 39 hours of labor to R&R the engine. That is a big bite all by itself a $90/hr. and I saw no real future in skimping on the part going in.

According to the techs that I talked to, this not an uncommon poblem with the 8.1. My faith in Workhorse and the GM 8.1 has taken a beating.

When I first heard the pinging on the hill, I shut down about 2 seconds after saying bad words. The pinging might have snuck up on me but with all of the fans going I wouldn't have heard it until it got bad.

Thanks for the discussion and offers of assistance.

Jeff H · 11-13-2007, 07:07 PM

You drove from Pahrump to Coarsegold? What did it sound like in all those miles?
Are you sure you don't have burnt plug wires?

bruceh · 11-13-2007, 07:25 PM

Sorry, I should have been more explicit. The motor home is in Pahrump but the Jeep, my wife and I are in Corsegold.

Bucky1 · 11-14-2007, 02:27 AM

Just a note on rebuilding. If a bearing is spun,the engine comes out. You can get to the bearing, and could even replace it, but the crank will have some major grooves, and will need to be resized. You can't get the crank out easily (not sure about 8.1's) without popping out the pistons, which should be checked anyhow. Plenty of shavings went through the oils system, and the engine needs to be gone through. That said, if repaired, it is good to go. All my bearings in my race motor are undersized, and they are just dandy at 8,000 rpm pass after pass. However, it may be less expensive to go rebuilt. That would not suprise me. And the warranty will be better too.

Bob (WA0MQE) · 11-14-2007, 04:22 AM

So "bruceh"... did you get a price on a new crate engine? I'll bet that's going to set you back a bit.

bruceh · 11-14-2007, 06:39 AM

Yes! The pain for the crate engine is $6100. If someone can provide a sanity check on this number, I would appreciate it.

Being broken down 400 miles from home, my options were severely limited. On reflection, I probably would have done the same thing even if I were home.

Photog · 11-14-2007, 07:09 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by bruceh:
Yes! The pain for the crate engine is $6100. If someone can provide a sanity check on this number, I would appreciate it.

Being broken down 400 miles from home, my options were severely limited. On reflection, I probably would have done the same thing even if I were home. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I found a website with a re-manufactured 8.1 at $4,995. I guess $1,100 more for a new one isn't all that bad.

JCM · 11-14-2007, 04:23 PM

I was quoted about $6,000 this spring when my oil pump shaft sheared = no oil pressure. I was lucky that the motor wasn't under a heavy load and I turned it off right away. I was able to just change the shaft. I did check around for a new engine while I was awating the final "diagnosis".
I know that hill and nearly toasted a F450 in a 30' "C" class in 2001. It was smelling hot when we reached the top and the brakes were smelling hot when we got down the other side into Death Valley. That night as we lay awake under the stars - my wife asked me if it would have been better if we had disconnected the toad and drove it up and down the hill on its own -- duh!.
Let us know the final cost when all is done. Good luck.

DonavonP · 11-14-2007, 06:14 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JCM:
disconnected the toad and drove it up and down the hill on its own .
L </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

This is what we do.

Argosy · 11-15-2007, 01:14 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I'd have no problem with a QUALITY independant, or factory rebuild in a MoHo, but a welded crank,or sleeved block, no way...rgr.... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

As this is a relatively new motor home I agree, a factory long block will give a better resale value and be an easier sale when the time comes. But it is the perception of the repair that is the problem, not the actual repair.

Welding journals, resleeving blocks is commonly done to repair engines, including engines in medium duty trucks, which work as hard as motor home engines, and do it daily to make money. Done correctly these are repairs that will last as long as the rest of the engine.

These are also one step past the normal repair of turning the crank to a standard undersize, boring the block to a standard oversize. Engines with these repairs usually are going in for the second rebuild or were not shut down when a problem was first noticed and more than normal damage was done.

The point I wanted to make was it is not necessary to purchase expensive parts like crankshafts because a rod bearing spun, or a block and crank because a main spun. It is normal to grind crank journals, bore blocks, saving a lot of money over buying new, and still end up with an engine that will have acceptable performance and life.

Max Hubrich · 11-15-2007, 02:36 AM

I just read back to the original thread---

This all happened 2000 miles after switching to synthetic oil! WOW--What are your plans for the new engine?

dieselclacker · 11-15-2007, 04:42 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Max Hubrich:
I just read back to the original thread---

This all happened 2000 miles after switching to synthetic oil! WOW--What are your plans for the new engine? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think the problem isn't the type of engine lubricant used in the motorhome, the problem was going up Towne Pass towing a Jeep. That pass is a real killer in warm weather. Donavan has the right idea, unhook the toad and drive it over. This is, providing, of course, there was sufficient amount of lubricant in the engine.

Dieselclacker

Tom N · 11-15-2007, 05:27 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by bruceh:
Got towed to Pahrump. Technician tells me that I have a spun bearing and need ane new engine. Ugh, big bucks. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Have you had any mods done to your engine such as reprogramming the ECM??

-Tom