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Old 01-25-2010, 04:23 PM   #29
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Quote:
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I read several comments back, that the w22 does not have the problem with the relay going bad.
Lloyd, As far as I know the W22 has not had this type of problem.
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:37 PM   #30
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Ignition switch mod

Driver,thanks for the quick reply.Is it because the w22 doesn't have the relay? I just can't find the relay on my w22. Thanks, Lloyd
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:51 PM   #31
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Driver,thanks for the quick reply.Is it because the w22 doesn't have the relay?
Lloyd, In the materials that I have, I have seen where the P Series has had a relay upgrade kit however there has not been a mention of the W Series needing the same device. I can not therefore testify about the presence of a relay however absent a problem on the W22 I'm going to go with not fixing what isn't broke.

If Oemy can provide better technical insight to this matter I will defer to his expertise as this is his thread.
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:17 PM   #32
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I will have to check my coach.... But, I have not heard that the W22's need the relay kit. But, that doesn't mean that it won't happen.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:30 PM   #33
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Just completed ignition switch fix

I just completed the ignition switch fix on my Winnebago. I downloaded the Workhorse instructions from oemy's site and assembled my kit for less than $25. It was a straight forward task. I used the Acc B post as the Auto Park uses the A post. Add to your parts list an 8mm 1.25p nut for the B post. Also I reused the electrical terminal taken off the pink wire. Oemys interest in this fix and the information he supplied were off immeasurable help.
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:23 AM   #34
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Thumbs up Replaced the switch and did the mod!

I did the the ignition mod today. Easy to do using the resources mentioned in this thread. I found the relay at Radio Shack, a new ignition switch(standard US-105) at the local auto parts store, add in the misc. other parts and the total came to $50.
More details:
10 gauge wire is approx. 6' long
14 gauge ground wire approx. 2' long
I used an internal tooth washer and a 5/16-20 nut for the 40A fuse terminal
I did not use a relay socket, I used insulated female spade connectors
NOTE:
When replacing the ignition switch you may need to adjust the mounting position of the ignition switch and the high beam switch to ensure proper operation. Make sure the turning of the key and the actuation of the high beam switch function properly before you put away the tools and start off driving.
Thanks for gathering all the info,
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:58 AM   #35
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I did the the ignition mod today.
woltz, This installation primer would have been "Excellent" had you but accompanied your proceedure with a couple of pictures!
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:52 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woltz View Post
When replacing the ignition switch you may need to adjust the mounting position of the ignition switch and the high beam switch to ensure proper operation. Make sure the turning of the key and the actuation of the high beam switch function properly before you put away the tools and start off driving.
I added this Note/Warning to the info on my site. I hope you don't mind.

I also added the info about the nut you used on the A/B terminal even though it conflicts with what Scout stated.
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Old 02-24-2010, 01:00 PM   #37
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Something else for a guy to look into. Is there a way to tell if the chassis needs this mod or not? Mine is an 05 P32....
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:20 PM   #38
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Most of the ones we hear about are the P3x series.
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:16 PM   #39
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Oh boy....I am new to the terminology so please bear with me....does P3x include a P32?

Edit: I read the PDF...yup...my P32 is a candidate. I will look tomorrow and see if I can do it....
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Old 02-24-2010, 09:44 PM   #40
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P3x = P30/32 and W2x =W20/22/24/25
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Old 02-25-2010, 11:11 PM   #41
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Picked up a Echlin switch today and had a boo at the rig.....yup, I have a post available on the fusebox still....this mod will happen soon. Thanks Oemy!
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Old 02-26-2010, 05:53 AM   #42
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Just trying to help and save my "RV buddies" an Oh No Now What! day and a few $$.
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