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Old 08-03-2017, 08:27 PM   #15
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Since I don't know when the last oil change was on the rig my folks bought, I plan on changing it this weekend or next while I replace knock sensors, and inspect the exhaust system again. And using mobile 1 synthetic, I may do filter changes more around the the 3 to 6 month mark depending on use.

Brake fluid I think we will pay someone to do that job. All I have are brake pad/shoe replacement tools. :-/
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Old 08-04-2017, 06:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrenchalot View Post
Brake fluid I think we will pay someone to do that job. All I have are brake pad/shoe replacement tools. :-/
Not sure what chassis you have, but the W24 has two bleed screws per brake (inner and outer) and I had a very hard time finding someone to do the work. In the end I helped them in the shop because they didn't know how to do it. Matter of fact, if I wasn't there I would have had a destroyed coach (long story).
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:27 AM   #17
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Old 08-05-2017, 10:09 AM   #18
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We now have put 112K on ours with Mobil 1 oil changes every 5K. Runs like a top!
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Old 08-10-2017, 03:55 PM   #19
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Oil today is not remotely close to oil even from a decade ago. The 3000 and or once a year is no longer. These days the only 100% sure way of knowing when it's time is to do an oil analysis.

Most name brand oils will easily live 5-6k miles. And that is regardless of whether you drive that annually or not.

As for oil of my choice....I prefer Valvoline VR-1 Racing conventional 10-30 with either a WIX, NAPA Gold, or my favorite Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter. These 3 filters have been shown to outperform others.

I run the Valvoline for the added ZDDP benefit. The conventional brand tested and outperformed several other leading synthetic brands. Synthetic oil is nothing more than a money grabber. It contains the same addictive packages of conventional oils. They are what break down with time and why running extended drain intervals comes down to an oil analisys test as the only sure way to know whether or not it's safe to do so.

The majority of oils these days will easily live longer than yearly intervals if one doesn't drive enough miles yearly.
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:25 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by udidwht View Post
Oil today is not remotely close to oil even from a decade ago. The 3000 and or once a year is no longer. These days the only 100% sure way of knowing when it's time is to do an oil analysis.

Most name brand oils will easily live 5-6k miles. And that is regardless of whether you drive that annually or not.

As for oil of my choice....I prefer Valvoline VR-1 Racing conventional 10-30 with either a WIX, NAPA Gold, or my favorite Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter. These 3 filters have been shown to outperform others.

I run the Valvoline for the added ZDDP benefit. The conventional brand tested and outperformed several other leading synthetic brands. Synthetic oil is nothing more than a money grabber. It contains the same addictive packages of conventional oils. They are what break down with time and why running extended drain intervals comes down to an oil analisys test as the only sure way to know whether or not it's safe to do so.

The majority of oils these days will easily live longer than yearly intervals if one doesn't drive enough miles yearly.
I agree with most all of that but I think Workhorse recommends 5w30 oil as opposed to 10w30. I'm pretty sure this is clearly discussed in the Workhorse Operating Manual for the chassis. For the 8.1 motor at least.
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:10 PM   #21
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I've taken exception to this insistent 3,000 mile oil change interval that all oil change businesses seem to try to adhere you to. Any decent oil, and especially a full synthetic, is good for at least 5,000 miles if not more. I don't really consider driving a motor home down the freeway at 60 extreme duty.

But that being said, I just did the oil change with 5-30 Mobil 1 and a Napa Gold filter (Wix). The used oil actually looked pretty good as I am sure I've added the equivalent of a full quart over the past year. But definitely having a bit of a struggle finding the appropriate serpentine belt and upper and lower radiator hoses as I would like to replace these in September before heading south.

2010 Coach on a very late 2008 W22 chassis.
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:28 PM   #22
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I agree with most all of that but I think Workhorse recommends 5w30 oil as opposed to 10w30. I'm pretty sure this is clearly discussed in the Workhorse Operating Manual for the chassis. For the 8.1 motor at least.
I'm running a BBC 454 TBI
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Wbonsell View Post
I've taken exception to this insistent 3,000 mile oil change interval that all oil change businesses seem to try to adhere you to. Any decent oil, and especially a full synthetic, is good for at least 5,000 miles if not more. I don't really consider driving a motor home down the freeway at 60 extreme duty.

But that being said, I just did the oil change with 5-30 Mobil 1 and a Napa Gold filter (Wix). The used oil actually looked pretty good as I am sure I've added the equivalent of a full quart over the past year. But definitely having a bit of a struggle finding the appropriate serpentine belt and upper and lower radiator hoses as I would like to replace these in September before heading south.

2010 Coach on a very late 2008 W22 chassis.
ACDelco 26163X Professional Upper Molded Coolant Hose

ACDelco 24397L Professional Lower Molded Coolant Hose


Gates K061080 Multi V-Groove Belt

You can get these on Amazon
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:35 PM   #24
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Workhorse part #s

Upper hose; HW0000218

Lower hose; HW0000219

Belt; 25-061080 or 25-061093 Buy both & see which one fits
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:37 PM   #25
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I just posted the hose and belt numbers in another post for you a few days ago.
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:40 PM   #26
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My original Workhorse drive train warranty was for 5 years so I always followed their 3000 mile requirement. I had had after market warranties since then so I still follow the Workhorse guidelines. My non warranty vehicles are all changed at 5000 miles.
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