oil fill tube out of manifold.

[boatracer2]

While chasing down an Auto Apply Parking Brake problem I noticed that the steel oil fill tube that fits into the aluminum manifold had slipped out of its hole. I think that may be the reason that my check engine light would come on and then go off without anything being done to fix or find the cause for the light to come on. This is a mass air flow GM big block motor in a workhorse chassis. I tapped the tube back into its hole and will be checking on it regularly especially when I need to add oil during an oil change.

Boat racer2

[boatracer2]

the title spelling should be "manifold" not manufold

[Good man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by boatracer2 While chasing down an Auto Apply Parking Brake problem I noticed that the steel oil fill tube that fits into the aluminum manifold had slipped out of its hole. I think that may be the reason that my check engine light would come on and then go off without anything being done to fix or find the cause for the light to come on. This is a mass air flow GM big block motor in a workhorse chassis. I tapped the tube back into its hole and will be checking on it regularly especially when I need to add oil during an oil change. Boat racer2

Boat racer2,
Look for a missing brace or bracket that may have helped to hold that tube in the ENGINE BLOCK so that the dipstick could meter the oil in the crankcase below.

Yes, it is a "slip fit," but most of the time on the longer dip sticks, there needs to be additional support for the tube. You may be wise to fabricate a bracket.

About 50 years ago my daddy told me that I could run a car low on gasoline forever and it would not hurt it... but if I ran it low on oil, it would tear it to H--L. I think he was right.
Good luck,
Jim

[Max Hubrich]

Good man,

My thoughts on securing it more tightly.

If you can get close to the base of where it slips into the manifold, put a clamp, or a pair of vise grip pliers on to the tube just tight enough to hold in place (you said the tube is steel) and tap the vice grip pliers with a hammer to re-seat the tube into the manifold. Then a bracket would be a good idea too.

Sounds like you found your problem to me- Great work-

Sometimes it's the small, unusual things that add up to a cure. Read my post and cure, on another un-associated problem.

Cheers,

[Full-Timers]

I can't see why this would turn on a check engine light, but who knows with these modern day electronics.

[Good man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers I can't see why this would turn on a check engine light, but who knows with these modern day electronics.

Ful-Timers,
I think what the original poster stated was he lost enough oil through the hole where the dip tube came unseated... then the check engine or oil light came on. Agree that it is all very complicated.
Jim

[Good man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Hubrich Good man, My thoughts on securing it more tightly. If you can get close to the base of where it slips into the manifold, put a clamp, or a pair of vise grip pliers on to the tube just tight enough to hold in place (you said the tube is steel) and tap the vice grip pliers with a hammer to re-seat the tube into the manifold. Then a bracket would be a good idea too. Sounds like you found your problem to me- Great work- Sometimes it's the small, unusual things that add up to a cure. Read my post and cure, on another un-associated problem. Cheers,

Max,
I'm not the one having the problem... but I agree with your suggestion to clamp the vise grip firmly enough around the steel tube to be able to 'take the hit" from tapping it back in.

The original poster, boatracer2 has been missing in action since he first asked for assistance... Would be good to know what works/didn't work.
I look forward to reading your post.
Jim

[boatracer2]

I was chasing a Auto Apply Parking Brake problem by using the directions from OUB and while looking for the park/drive relay under the dog house I noticed that the oil fill tube was out of the manifold casting. The contacts on the relay were corroded and removing and reinstalling the relay cleaned the contacts and cured part of the problem that I was having. I also replaced the Park Brake light switch which was leaking.
On mass airflow equipt engines, which my 8.1 GM engine is, all air entering the engine must go through the mass air flow sensor. This includes any air that goes through the positive crankcase valve. With the oil fill tube out of its' place it allows more air to enter the motor without being measured which is what the mass air flow sensor does and this affects the fuel/air mixture required to run the motor. This can possibly set a "Check Engine" code.
I will be putting a muffler clamp on the steel pipe and a bracket from it to a bolt hole on the manifold to help hold this pipe in place.