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Old 06-28-2019, 09:02 AM   #1
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Overheating question -W22

Took the infamous New Priest Grade climb on Hwy 120 to Groveland, CA. Very difficult and slow climb resulted in my 8.1 overheating. When we finally got to our destination I noticed I blew coolant out the top of the overflow tank.

Have since left and engine running normally. I did find that the radiator cap was not fully closed TIGHT and wondering if that might have assisted in the overheating problem and loss of some coolant. Never had a problem over the past nearly 4 years.
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Old 06-28-2019, 10:06 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wbonsell View Post
Took the infamous New Priest Grade climb on Hwy 120 to Groveland, CA. Very difficult and slow climb resulted in my 8.1 overheating. When we finally got to our destination I noticed I blew coolant out the top of the overflow tank.

Have since left and engine running normally. I did find that the radiator cap was not fully closed TIGHT and wondering if that might have assisted in the overheating problem and loss of some coolant. Never had a problem over the past nearly 4 years.
YES. The ability of the coolant in the radiator to NOT boil is a combination of "anti-freeze" AND pressure. You should have a 15 PSI cap and it must not leak in order to create the pressure. Since you know you lost some fluid, wait until it is completely cooled and then fill the radiator till it is completely full. Simply adding coolant to the overflow tank MAY not totally replace what was lost. See HERE: How The Motorhome Coolant Overflow Reservoir Works
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Old 06-28-2019, 10:48 AM   #3
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YES. The ability of the coolant in the radiator to NOT boil is a combination of "anti-freeze" AND pressure. You should have a 15 PSI cap and it must not leak in order to create the pressure. Since you know you lost some fluid, wait until it is completely cooled and then fill the radiator till it is completely full. Simply adding coolant to the overflow tank MAY not totally replace what was lost. See HERE: How The Motorhome Coolant Overflow Reservoir Works
This.
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Old 06-29-2019, 05:21 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Wbonsell View Post
Took the infamous New Priest Grade climb on Hwy 120 to Groveland, CA. Very difficult and slow climb resulted in my 8.1 overheating. When we finally got to our destination I noticed I blew coolant out the top of the overflow tank.

Have since left and engine running normally. I did find that the radiator cap was not fully closed TIGHT and wondering if that might have assisted in the overheating problem and loss of some coolant. Never had a problem over the past nearly 4 years.
Physics 101, pressure lowers the boiling points of most liquids, also NEVER remove the rad cap when the engine is hot.
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Old 06-30-2019, 08:16 PM   #5
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Physics 101, pressure lowers the boiling points of most liquids, also NEVER remove the rad cap when the engine is hot.
I'm not an expert on Physics, but I'm thinking you meant the opposite of what you wrote. I believe increasing pressure will increase the point at which most fluids boil. Right?
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Old 06-30-2019, 10:29 PM   #6
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Do you use a Scangauge or some equivelent OBD scann tool? Do you have an actual coolant temp gauge if you don't have a Scangauge?

Proper operation of the cooling fans and the viscous clutch fan can be verified if you have an accurate way of monitoring the actual coolant temperature.

On my W24 Adventurer I see the electric cooling fans kick on at about 212-214F. They kick back off at about 205F. The viscous clutch fan goes into full lock up at about 220f.

On my W22 Suncruiser the electric cooling fans kick on at about 208f and shut off at around 200f. The viscous clutch goes into full lock up around 220f.

When approaching long steep grades I click the dash AC to off. This reduces coolant temps by 4 to 5 degrees depending on how long the climb is and the outside temperature.

If I traveled in super hot weather I would wire the electric cooling fans on a switch so I could start them at 200f instead of allowing the engine to heat up and have them kick on automatically.

I watch coolant temps closely. If I see the temp approaching 215 I typically back off the throttle just a tad and then listen for the clutch fan to lock up. It rarely reaches the lock up temperature.

Last summer it was 110f out and we were climbing the pass out of Vegas just past the hoover dam and I saw 221f on the Scangauge. All my fans were working like they were supposed to. I backed out of the throttle just a bit and slowed down 5mph. All was good.
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Old 07-01-2019, 05:08 AM   #7
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I'm not an expert on Physics, but I'm thinking you meant the opposite of what you wrote. I believe increasing pressure will increase the point at which most fluids boil. Right?
LOL, thanks for correcting me yes as that is what I meant.
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Old 07-01-2019, 05:19 AM   #8
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Do you use a Scangauge or some equivelent OBD scann tool? Do you have an actual coolant temp gauge if you don't have a Scangauge?

Proper operation of the cooling fans and the viscous clutch fan can be verified if you have an accurate way of monitoring the actual coolant temperature.

On my W24 Adventurer I see the electric cooling fans kick on at about 212-214F. They kick back off at about 205F. The viscous clutch fan goes into full lock up at about 220f.

On my W22 Suncruiser the electric cooling fans kick on at about 208f and shut off at around 200f. The viscous clutch goes into full lock up around 220f.



When approaching long steep grades I click the dash AC to off. This reduces coolant temps by 4 to 5 degrees depending on how long the climb is and the outside temperature.

If I traveled in super hot weather I would wire the electric cooling fans on a switch so I could start them at 200f instead of allowing the engine to heat up and have them kick on automatically.

I watch coolant temps closely. If I see the temp approaching 215 I typically back off the throttle just a tad and then listen for the clutch fan to lock up. It rarely reaches the lock up temperature.

Last summer it was 110f out and we were climbing the pass out of Vegas just past the hoover dam and I saw 221f on the Scangauge. All my fans were working like they were supposed to. I backed out of the throttle just a bit and slowed down 5mph. All was good.

It appears the Workhorse chassis has limited cooling capacity as designed compared to cars etc, we drive regularly.
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Old 07-01-2019, 08:54 AM   #9
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It appears the Workhorse chassis has limited cooling capacity as designed compared to cars etc, we drive regularly.


Well the 8.1 is doing a lot more work than cars we drive regularly. But yes, the cooling capacity is limited when pushed on very hot days.

If I were regularly driving mine in hot weather I would add a second radiator. Either flat and low behind the front facia or connected to the motoraid system somewhere.

Adding cooling capacity isnt all that difficult.
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Old 07-12-2019, 07:12 PM   #10
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With respect to the 7.4L engine (P30 setup) On my trip back up interstate 5 I left Redding, Ca. on the July 10th ambient was 95F. Going thru Shasta area the temp was 91F during the drive up the engine temp varied from 209F (no fan engaged) - 234F (brief seconds then back to 229F) clutch fan full engaged. The clutch fan was working off/on during that period of drive.


The high temp was during climb. Reading was from my Android ALDL app and OBD1 scanner. Dash gauge generally always reflects higher than the scan tool by a few degrees or higher.


On the flats or rolling hills the temp averaged low 200's - 212F. Very typical of a correctly functioning cooling system. At a 212F reading the dash gauge would fool one into thinking it was hotter...210F is dead center but the dash gauge would be 1/3rd of the way into the gray bar to the right at times (load related). Load can be associated via road grade, headwind or both.


One should also be certain that their auxiliary fan is kicking on when it should. One would be surprised how many don't have this fan working.
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:43 PM   #11
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This is going to sound really lame, but Iím actually not sure if I have aux cooling fans as one I donít hear them and two I donít see them. Would they be behind the radiator?
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Old 07-13-2019, 12:42 AM   #12
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This is going to sound really lame, but I’m actually not sure if I have aux cooling fans as one I don’t hear them and two I don’t see them. Would they be behind the radiator?
Your coach should be on the Workhorse W22 chassis. These chassis' have 2 electric cooling fans in front of the radiator and AC condenser.

They should look similar to this picture below. This is looling from the front engine access back toward the engine. Depending on how well your engine bay is insulated you may not actually hear them come on. When the clutch fan goes into full lock up you can definitely hear that roar.

I can't imagine a W22 without electric cooling fans but I'm not totally familiar with these chassis after 2008.



EDIT. I did a little research and it looks like Workhorse eliminated the front mounted Electric Cooling fans in 2007 and later chassis. Your coach probably does not have electric cooling fans like pictured above.
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Old 07-13-2019, 08:29 AM   #13
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Hottest I've ever seen mine is 216* and that was on that long climb out of Needles with the OAT being 111*. Rarely does it get up to 209*.
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Old 07-13-2019, 01:39 PM   #14
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Hottest I've ever seen mine is 216* and that was on that long climb out of Needles with the OAT being 111*. Rarely does it get up to 209*.

I believe they made some change with respect to calibration on the later setup dash gauge.


The early-mid 90's dash gauge would freak people out


Here's a shot of my dash gauge when in operation...(Temp taken at T stat housing (195F AC Delco stat)


https://www.dropbox.com/s/1g7tqhth3u...B1%5D.jpg?dl=0


and if the coolant ratio is above 50% (say 70% coolant) you'll see.....


https://www.dropbox.com/s/9v74r8uuni...B1%5D.jpg?dl=0


So be sure you have the coolant at min 50% vs H2O distilled or better....40% coolant vs 60% distilled H2O. Water is a better coolant then anti freeze. No less than 33% coolant vs water.
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