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Old 11-03-2013, 07:51 PM   #1
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Location: Orange Beach, Alabama
Posts: 146
P-30 Rear Brake Inspec/service

I have "searched " the site, but did not see any posts where a member has performed their own work on the rear brakes of a Chevy P-30. I bought my 95 Brave almost two years ago, and want to, at least, inspect my rear brakes, and service as needed. Anyone been there and done that? I would like to hear from you. Thanks

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Old 11-04-2013, 06:52 AM   #2
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fort Erie ON CA
Posts: 94
Would suggest going to a heavy duty truck repair shop. You are playing with lots of weight as well as getting the duallies off.


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Old 11-05-2013, 07:51 PM   #3
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Central, South Carolina
Posts: 314
I have replaced all brake pads on my own (120,000 mi at present). Chuck the front wheels. Jack up the rear wheels about 1/4 inch above solid ground. Use safety jack stands to hold them up. Do not rely on a hydraulic jack to hold them up while you are working on them. The tires come off easily. Take them off and put them back with a long tire iron underneath for leverage of the 1/4 inch up and down travel. This will take some patience to get the bolt pattern aligned, but not a lot of muscle.
With a flashlight look for the metal scraper spring that drags on the disk and makes noise when the pads need replacement. If it touches, then replace the pads for sure.
The process is the same as for any caliper activated disk brake.
Before any disassembly, clean all dirt away using an aerosol can brake cleaner, or compressed air.
For pad replacement make sure the brake assembly never hangs from the hydraulic brake hose. Arrange for an alternate holding method ahead of time.
I have used a very large C-clamp to push the pistons back to make room for the new pads. You are lucky because you do not have the cheap plastic pistons that swelled from moisture, stick and made the brakes bind.
Before reassembly, make sure all sliding surfaces have a very light coating of high temperature silicone grease. It usually comes in tiny plastic squeeze packets.
Whatever you do, remember that everything is much heavier than on a car. Think twice and act once.
The best to you.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:03 AM   #4
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Orange Beach, Alabama
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Thanks for the replies. Believe me I understand Steves concern about the weight issues in safely working on large objects, vehicles, etc.
Being an old papermill mechanic, I feel I have the experience to tackle such endeavors.
Thanks Garyspang, for your comments. I have taken note of them. I already have inspected, greased the front bearings, and brake pads. All looked well there.
As soon as I finish fabbing and installing my track bar, the rear brakes will be the next project.
Thanks Again!
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:37 AM   #5
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Cubflyer here I am in the process of replacing replacing front and rear calipers, I have resurfaced the rotors, replaced the seals and hoses. this unit 1999 national 5360 p 32 only has 20000 miles and is ashame to replace all of this because it looks so new, but I do this for a living and time does its damage. What I am up against is finding calipers with steel pistons instead of phenolic or have the phenolic been improved a1 cardone still uses these in its rebuilds. What are people using? Thanks for your help as I know with all the P32 chassis out there someone has a answer. Cubflyer
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:43 AM   #6
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Cubflyer here. I found 4 rebuilt a1 calipers with steel pistons what ones to use ? Phenolic which on the A1 Cardone website they say stays cooler or the steel which I have not had any problems with thanks
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:19 PM   #7
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Location: Orange Beach, Alabama
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Sir, I used the steel cups, in my search for parts I did not come across any calipers with the phynolic cups. In all my years as a mechanic my choice was always the steel. Have had no problems with the calipers on my Brave. My personal choice would be the steel at this time.

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brake, service

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