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Old 05-15-2007, 05:46 PM   #1
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MY MH has always rode low in the front. I know Mike has said that 2 1/4" is correct. I have 80PSI in the front air bags and my ride height is maybe 1 3/4" , 1 7/8" maximum.
I've had 2 leaky air bags befor so I hesitate to put much more air in them and I have my doubts if it would lift it much more any way.
I know Mike has aftermarket spring that don't need the airbags and that may be the way to go in the future.
Since I can't get the proper ride height , what are the tolerances for warranty work? Will the WH svc cntr laugh at me if I tell them I'm supposed to have a 2 1/4" ride height but only have 1 7/8" at best? I don't want to waste my time but if it should be fixed, now is the time while it's still under warranty.
I should add that it rides good and straight and the tires seem to be wearing even. The steering wheel rides at about 2 o'clock when going straight tho. If the ground is level, I still have to raise the front end quite a bit to keep all my doors in the MH from gravitying to the front of the coach , and the levelers agree.

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Old 05-15-2007, 05:46 PM   #2
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MY MH has always rode low in the front. I know Mike has said that 2 1/4" is correct. I have 80PSI in the front air bags and my ride height is maybe 1 3/4" , 1 7/8" maximum.
I've had 2 leaky air bags befor so I hesitate to put much more air in them and I have my doubts if it would lift it much more any way.
I know Mike has aftermarket spring that don't need the airbags and that may be the way to go in the future.
Since I can't get the proper ride height , what are the tolerances for warranty work? Will the WH svc cntr laugh at me if I tell them I'm supposed to have a 2 1/4" ride height but only have 1 7/8" at best? I don't want to waste my time but if it should be fixed, now is the time while it's still under warranty.
I should add that it rides good and straight and the tires seem to be wearing even. The steering wheel rides at about 2 o'clock when going straight tho. If the ground is level, I still have to raise the front end quite a bit to keep all my doors in the MH from gravitying to the front of the coach , and the levelers agree.

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Old 05-15-2007, 05:59 PM   #3
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Also does anyone know if they have 'air shock' for the front of a P-32, that will actually lift the front?
I had them on the rear of my '03 Minnie Winnie and adding air lifted it right up. Never had any problems with them either.
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:27 PM   #4
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You can get the Henderson Springs that are a stronger spring than the Workhorse springs, which eliminates the WH airbags. I hear these will raise your front end up about 2 inches.

One of the reasons we traded off our '05 Sightseer on the P-32 was the lower front end which annoyed us. Workhorse will do nothing about the lower ride height, as this is standard for the P-32.......We also had to almost lift the front wheels off the ground when we leveled...

I believe Camping World in Denver and Longmont (K&C) carries the Henderson springs.
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Old 05-16-2007, 03:09 AM   #5
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Service Tip - For units that appear to have a low front ride height due to operating at near
front suspension capacity or if air bag cylinders have been run below minimum recommended
pressure:
1. Jack up the motor home by the middle of the front cross member and allow the wheels
to hang.
2. Remove the air from the air bag and re-inflate the air bag to the proper pressure.
3. Lower the unit and bleed off air (as necessary) to maintain proper air bag pressure.
This may provide some ride height improvement as the air bag tends to stretch lengthwise
slightly with this procedure.

[Source: 2006 Workhorse Chassis Guide]
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Old 05-16-2007, 06:41 AM   #6
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I have tested 70 psi - 90 psi and it doesn't change the front height at all. I did replace 1 air bag about a year ago, I talked to Keith at Redlands RV Performance and he is going to change the springs/air bag to the Ultrasprings
and add the front sway bar spreader to my P-32 then I wont have to worry about the air bags anymore.
Marty
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Old 05-16-2007, 01:17 PM   #7
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The reason I asked if they made aftermarket air adjustable shocks is because that would be a simple DIY project. Maybe changing the coil springs would'nt be so bad. Anyone done this?
Mike, I'm sure you have. Is it a pretty big job? I hear they can change the air bag without removing the coil springs, but I don't see how.
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Old 05-17-2007, 12:07 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by max49:
The reason I asked if they made aftermarket air adjustable shocks is because that would be a simple DIY project. Maybe changing the coil springs would'nt be so bad. Anyone done this?
Mike, I'm sure you have. Is it a pretty big job? I hear they can change the air bag without removing the coil springs, but I don't see how. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Max,

Ask and you shall receive. The instructions on how are included with the AirLift replacement bags:

http://airlift.r-catalog.com/ImgVD/AIL/MN-360.pdf

Some mention that soaking the new bags in hot(within reason) soapy water helps with installing the new ones.
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:38 PM   #9
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Max, I've got where I can change P32 Springs in about an hour per side. Here goes.

1)Raise the front end off the ground and secure with jack stands (Not under the A-Frames).

2)Remove both Front Tires.

3)Remove the 2 bolts which hold the sway arm bushing and bracket on each side.

4)Remove the Top Shock mounting nut from the frame on each side. This is much easier than trying to wrestle the bottom bolts.

5)Wrap the Spring with a Strap or Chain and secure so the spring does not jump out when releasing the tension.

6)Put a floor jack under the lower A Frame and put a little tension on it.

7) Remove the cotter pin from the Lower Ball Joint. Break the nut loose and back it off enough to leave 1 full nut on the ball joint stud for safety.

8) Build you a small Ball Joint removal press. Use Two 1/2" bolts the proper length screwed into the same nut. When both bolts are screwed into the nut by equal amounts, you just want the bolt heads to clear the upper and lower ball joint studs.

9) Using two 3/4" wrenchs, slowly unscrew the 1/2" Bolts on the home made press. This will use the top ball joint stud as the stationary part and push the lower ball joint out of it's seat. It takes about 1/2 turn before it lets loose.

10) Take strap and wrap around a lug nut and tie it off to the fender well or frame somewhere. This will support the upper a-frame, spindle and keep it all from hanging on the upper ball joint.

11) make sure your jack has the lower A Arm pushed up good. Remove the nut from the lower ball joint and slowly lower the jack until the spring is unloaded.

12) The spring will just lift out once you remove your safety strap or chain.

13) Install the new Spring. Be sure to line the bottom coil spring's end up with the alignment hole on the bottom A-Arm, and make sure the top of the spring goes into position on the top. There is a lip that fits into the center of the spring on top.

14) Install your safety strap from the spring to the lower a frame.

15) start raising the jack slowly to slightly compress the spring. You may have to take a bar and pry the lower part of the spring in just a little until it fully seats.

16) Continue jacking up and guide the lower ball joint stud into the hole in the spindle, being carefull not to bind it up.

17) Get a nut on the lower ball joint stud when you can. Continue jacking until the ball joint is in the spindle.

18) Tighten the nut, and torque to 130 ft. lbs, then make sure you line up the cotter pin hole. Insert a new cotter pin.

19) Install Swap Bar Bracket bolts on each side.

20) Install top Shock mount nut on each side.

21) Have the front end alignment checked.
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:42 PM   #10
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Sorry about the duplicate post. The Edit Icon keeps disappearing!
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Old 05-18-2007, 02:35 AM   #11
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"Maybe changing the coil springs would'nt be so bad. Anyone done this? "


I think Max already had instructions on the air bags. I gave him instructions for changing the springs. Yes, I could have made it lots less but it's not near as bad as it sounds.

I would "almost" bet you, I could remove and install two new springs about as fast as you can remove and change two air bags. It would only cost about $100-$150 more and is a much better fix.
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Old 05-18-2007, 05:51 AM   #12
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I think if you change the springs you'll need an alignment.
Marty
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:39 AM   #13
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TakerEasy,

The springs are also a permanent fix!

Your right Marty,

Anytime you make a change to the ride height,you must realign the front end.This includes changing air bag pressures.If your coach was aligned with say 40 lbs. of air in the bags,then you must keep that ride height the same or the alignment will change dramatically.
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:41 AM   #14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Brazels RV Performance:
If your coach was aligned with say 40 lbs. of air in the bags,then you must keep that ride height the same or the alignment will change dramatically. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Mike, Thanks for sharing that! Nice to know.

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