P32 - Auto Park - I'm very worried reading posts here

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Alfred622:
I'll have to see if I can find the source for the "2005 Workhorse Gas Motorhome Chassis Guide". I'll email Workhorse to see if I can purchase one through them. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>You will be receiving the "2006" Chassis Guide and I believe you can get it on-line. Look in workhorse.com and click on parts. The chassis guide is listed I believe for $14.95.

The 2006 guide covers all years from 1999 to the present.

It's been my pleasure to respond in this thread to your concerns about the AAPB.

[Freddy]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:


The best thing that an owner can do to assure the reliability of the auto apply brake is routine service and maintenance.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Just how does one service such a component? If I remember correctly my problem with the Sightseer was a bad electric/hydraulic switch that locked the brake.

Do you take the switch out and inspect it? If so, what do you look for? When looking at the switch, would defects be obvious? Do you recommend owners with that type brake carry spares?

And, how do you know that there aren't more problems with that type parking brake? Not everyone who owns an RV equipped with that device is on this forum.

Many may have had problems, had it fixed and went on their merry way.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Freddy:
Just how does one service such a component? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I don't presume to know that answer. The only thing I can offer is that it's in the schedule of maintenance for the vehicles so equipped with auto apply parking brakes and the technicians know what to check for and how to service the components. I am also not suggesting that an owner check these components or carry spares.

A trained technician should be able to meter current flow and draw at each connection so unless one is competent in accomplishing this type of work, I would leave it to the experts. One other attribute that a trained technician has is experience. While servicing these and other types of systems these techs know what to put their hands on first and they can usually get to the seat of the problem fairly quickly.

For the same reasons that a doctor can diagnose a complex entity like a human body a trained and experienced tech can identify and resolve a problem with these systems most times by simply knowing how the system presents and what the mechanisms are that cause the symptoms.

The fixing is the easy part.

In closing I suggested that if there were succeeding and cascading failure rates we would see a TSB released by Workhorse. I don't see this type of publication in my resources therefore one can only surmise that there isn't as large and wide of a failure rate as we might want to imagine it could be.

Right now I'm traveling West on the I-20, this evening in Lincoln, AL. What I see quite often are many instances where 18 wheelers lock up their brakes and you can see the skid marks pull off into the shoulder. Once these guys loose their air they lock up tighter than a drum. Similar systems different approaches toward pressurizing the parking brake system. Big rigs use air and auto apply parking brake systems use hydraulic pressure. The method of operating is similar the actual braking devices are different.

[max49]

Driver, don't forget that air parking brakes are the same brakes at the wheels that are used to stop the vehicle all the time, just like a foot operated parking brake with a cable to the rear wheels. The auto park is only a driveshaft brake. The brake mounting bolts, the u joints, the driveshaft are not made for stopping the vehicle, and damage would occur if the brake was applied at any speed, it is made to hopefuly hold it once it is stopped.
The "Park" position on the gearshift and the cute "yellow park button" seem to be a waste of money. All you have to do to lock the auto park is cut the power to it, IE , turn the key off. Don't try this at more than 2 mph tho.
How do you guys like that growling as the parking brake releases? I wish I could descibe it with the keyboard.
I doubt WH would ever post problems with it on their website unless they were forced to do so. That would be admitting to a dangerous and defective product. How ever, it is amazing how many warnings there are about it in the WH owners manual. Probably legal advice.
I wonder how much a WH svc cnter would charge to check the amp and current draw on all the connections of the brake system when they seem to be working as intended. Seems to me like checking a light swith that's working fine. Electrical swithes either work or they don't and don't give warning. I'm sure WH would change the parts for you since you are worried about them, for a large fee, not warranty.

[tom112]

Driver,( re the auto brake on P32)

This month's issue of MOtor Home Mag. in th Q & A section " I would be tempted to convert it to manual cable control like the older ones." Can you offer any dvise as to how to do this ?Is it a do it yourself of can any service organization do it ?

thanks
tom

[Fresh Air]

We experienced brake lockup yesterday. Help!

[96Bounder1st]

Auto park brake J71 for P32, new troubleshooting guide

Try this search string. It will take you to a very good write up on troubleshooting steps


Terry

[MinntoMich]

Alfred662,
I have an earlier, simpler version of AutoPark and was able to fix it myself. Don't know if its been mentioned or not but the site rvautopark.com was EXTREMELY helpful.

If your light is blinking I would be researching possible causes. This site will also help you with that as well as searching other posts.

Good luck.

I cannot say enough good things about the info. there.

[MinntoMich]

Silly me. I thought this was new thread. Fresh Air I would check up on this site rvautopark.com and maybe you can answer your own question.

[LETMGROW]

Originally Posted by 96Bounder1st

Auto park brake J71 for P32, new troubleshooting guide

Try this search string. It will take you to a very good write up on troubleshooting steps


Terry

This information can be found on the main page of this thread entitled: Workhorse Important Discussions and Problem Resolutions.
Page # 28

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/workh...ons-71705.html
Lynn

[edgray]

Originally Posted by Fresh Air

We experienced brake lockup yesterday. Help!

AutoPark parking brake system help, troubleshooting, and repair is a FREE resource also known as the Auto Park Library. The owner, Roger Haag, has helped thousands of J71 victims over the years. EMAIL is the best way to contact him.

[George Schweikle]

X2. Information on why there is an autopark system is nice but, for those with one, what really matters is what to do. Roger Haag is THE definitive autopark information source

Also, Brazels has updated switches for the autopark system https://www.brazelsrv.com/US21-Ultra...ch-Upgrade-Kit

Originally Posted by edgray

AutoPark parking brake system help, troubleshooting, and repair is a FREE resource also known as the Auto Park Library. The owner, Roger Haag, has helped thousands of J71 victims over the years. EMAIL is the best way to contact him.

[LETMGROW]

Originally Posted by George Schweikle

X2. Information on why there is an autopark system is nice but, for those with one, what really matters is what to do. Roger Haag is THE definitive autopark information source

Also, Brazels has updated switches for the autopark system https://www.brazelsrv.com/US21-Ultra...ch-Upgrade-Kit

Roger's E-Mail is: rhaag11@charter.net

There are some basic maintenance items any owner can do.
1) Check the fluid level in the AP resovoir. The fluid should be red in color and not show signs of moisture. The fluid is Dexron 111 ATF.
2) Replace the pressure and light switches if they are over five years old. Save the old switches for spares. I carry one of each switch (brand new) just in case.
3)Check the hydraulic hose from the pump to the actuator. Look for signs of fluid seepage or leaks in the hose as well as weather checking. Be sure the hose isn't rubbing against anything which eventually could cause a leak in the hose. Be sure the hose is routed away from exhaust parts.
4) Check the cable between the actuator and the brake assembly on the rear of the transmission for fraying or broken strands in the cable.
5) Lubricate any linkages you can find with WD-40. This should be done several times throughout the season to keep the linkages clean and the pivots free.
These are some of the basics. Anyone who wants to add to this list is welcomed to.
Lynn

[LETMGROW]

I'll add one more item:
6) Be sure all lights and buzzers are working as they should be.
Lynn