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Old 04-03-2005, 12:42 AM   #1
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
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I read through this site and looked at the brake issues for the P32. I recently traded in a 27' 1991 Jamboree on a Ford an E350 chassis that I bought new. I towed a 5000 lb boat behind it for 10 years without any brake issues. In november I bought a 10 month old 32' Fleetwood Terra with 4000 miles on it. I thought it was great until I tried to stop it. It scared me half to death. The pedal would travel 6" before it started to stop. I felt like I had to two foot it.

I started reading this forum and saw the discussion on bleeding the brakes. I bled mine and what a difference.....6" of travel down to 2". I took the motorhome in for the dash repair and asked the dealer about the brake issue. I didn't understand how this thing could have air in the lines. The dealer told me that the brake lines are often disconnected by the coach builder while instaling other parts and then reconnected. This is the only explanation that made sense to me.

The dealer added that the system could be elctronically bled by computer and did so when I took it in for service.....Maybe someone else can speak to that being true or not.
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Old 04-03-2005, 12:42 AM   #2
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
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I read through this site and looked at the brake issues for the P32. I recently traded in a 27' 1991 Jamboree on a Ford an E350 chassis that I bought new. I towed a 5000 lb boat behind it for 10 years without any brake issues. In november I bought a 10 month old 32' Fleetwood Terra with 4000 miles on it. I thought it was great until I tried to stop it. It scared me half to death. The pedal would travel 6" before it started to stop. I felt like I had to two foot it.

I started reading this forum and saw the discussion on bleeding the brakes. I bled mine and what a difference.....6" of travel down to 2". I took the motorhome in for the dash repair and asked the dealer about the brake issue. I didn't understand how this thing could have air in the lines. The dealer told me that the brake lines are often disconnected by the coach builder while instaling other parts and then reconnected. This is the only explanation that made sense to me.

The dealer added that the system could be elctronically bled by computer and did so when I took it in for service.....Maybe someone else can speak to that being true or not.
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Old 04-03-2005, 08:18 AM   #3
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Hello, I am still having problems with my P-32 brakes. This was a new MH I purchased Oct last year. Two trips to the Workhorse repair shop have done little to improve them. They claim to have bled them the first time, and simply said that the p32 brakes were normal with that much travel? I not only have issues with the soft/spongy pedal, but with the enormous amount of effort needed to stop this Holiday Rambler.

Could you explain how you bled them? Did you use a pressure bleeder, or a vacuum pump at the calipers? This being a new unit I am very disappointed with WORKHORSE. I am nearing some other course of action with them. Based on my investigation this is a very very common complaint with this chassis. Thanks for your input. Ray
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Old 04-03-2005, 10:20 AM   #4
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Ray, I have a power bleeder, but didn't have a cap that fit the master cylinder, so I bled it the old fashion way. My wife pumped the pedal while I bled. It didn't take much bleeding....I bled about an ounce at each wheel starting with the right rear. I also found the power sterring fluid was low when I checked....the power steering supplies the boost to these brakes. I also had a squeaky front disc and the dealer told me my rotors may be out of round.

I used to do brakes for a living and pulled the front calipers off.....very easy if you are familar with disc brakes...just heavy. All of the caliper slide points were dry and rusty...only 4500 miles....I lubed the calipers and put disc brake quiet on the pads. The brakes were much improved and quiet. I still think the brakes require alot of effort to apply, but the pedal is firm. If you have any questions about the above, I would gladly walk you through it. I don't know your mechanical ability level and I don't want to insult you. The brakes are a simple do it yourself job with a few tools....again, everything is just heavy.
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Old 04-03-2005, 12:48 PM   #5
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When I asked the wcc repair shop how they bled the brakes they indicated that they pressure bled them. We have a vacuum bleeder at the shop, and it works very well on the Harley brakes. If I do decide to bleed the brakes myself, I will use that. But since this is a NEW MH I expect Workhorse to fix it, if they can (and I have serious doubts about that). Considering all the complaints on this and other forums, I feel that the brakes are simply not up to the task! It isn't just the pedal travel, it's the effort needed.
Thanks for the reply, Ray
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Old 04-04-2005, 06:20 AM   #6
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Terra Don:

When I asked my local Workhorse dealer for an estimate to "lube brake caliper slides and linkage" he quoted four (4) hours.

Does that sound right? What is involved? Do the lug nuts need retorking? PS: I don't know squat about brakes.
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:59 AM   #7
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Four hours sounds about right. You have to jack it up, remove the front wheels, remove both brake calipers, clean the slide points, lube and re-assemble.
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Old 04-04-2005, 08:02 AM   #8
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Ray...I agree.....Workhorse should fix this problem before someone gets killed......this is not a minor issue, but like most companies, they won't fix it until someone forces them to with a lawsuit....How sad! I have a feeling that the previous owner of my motorhome dump it in 9 months because of the brake issue.
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Old 04-04-2005, 03:19 PM   #9
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Terra Don, I agree and that is my point. Will the record of poor brakes affect the value down the road? Shame on me, I didn't do enough research before I bought this MH. In hindsight I would have bought the W20.
Ray
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Old 04-04-2005, 03:33 PM   #10
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I too have the 32 Terra. With a lot of travel.After reading all these posts. And finding I could pump up the pedal. I will be bleeding my brakes as well. Hopefully will have the same luck as you.
Terra Don, Do you have to dismantle to put on the disk brake quiet?
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Old 04-04-2005, 10:43 PM   #11
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You should remove the brake pads to put the disc brake quiet on correctly. Disc brake quiet comes in a bottle that you can squeeze on and then brush around or in a spray can. I imagine you could pry the pads partially loose by squeezing the calipers together and spray the disc brake quiet on, but the best way is to remove the pads. Breaks squeal for a couple of reasons. Primarilly because they are moving/vibrating very minutely and causing the high pitch squeal. When the disc brake quiet is added, it provides a cushion/glue that locks the pad in. A lot of new brake pads come with a stick on backing that is used on the non-lining side. It does the same thing.
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