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P32 front air bags
Old 03-09-2010, 10:10 PM   #1
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I read that Max49 had to have the same air bag replaced twice. Is it a hard job to do? How much did it cost?
I have to replace mine, both have bad leaks.
Have you heard of anyone upgrading to the SuperSteer® coil Springs eliminating the air bags all together?
Thanks,

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same boat as you on this
Old 03-09-2010, 11:54 PM   #2
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Never heard of these springs but am interested if they work better and are more durable. Look forward to hearing about these!

Scott

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Old 03-10-2010, 12:37 AM   #3
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If these are the same as the P30 air-bag-in-coil-spring, I changed those myself. IIRC I put in Air-Lift brand bags w/remote fill which were way nicer than the OEM bags. One had an improperly drilled fitting, and one had a nicked o-ring, so I had to fix that stuff, but otherwise a great replacement.

To get the old bag out, I used a giant slip-joint pliers, using the curved head portion of the pliers as a fulcrum to pry. Took a lot of effort, but once they get started they come out in less than 10 min. each. Getting the new ones in takes more herfing, but again, once you get it started thru the hole in the bottom plate, it moves w/heavy effort maybe 1/4" at a time, but less than 10 or 15 min. a side. I reused the big OEM plastic washer/donut for a better control on the wear for the nipple end of the bag; don't know if they still have the same kit but IIRC the kit didn't have the donut and assumed not using one.
I tied the remote fill lines behind the front bumper rather than drill the body for thru fiberglass installation; I didn't want the cosmetic interruption, YMMV.

Others w/the P30 were upgrading the the Henderson's springs w/out air bags (been a while since I sold that rig) and reporting improved handling as a result, but they were typically doing a few upgrades at the same time. IIRC the Henderson's bell crank was universally loved as it reduced wander over the raw bushing type OEM crank that wore out early and often, and most doing the springs did this also, frequently along w/beefier anti-sway bars and better sway bushings. I wouldn't expect great handling improvement out of new bags, but the remote fill was nice, easy to check (didn't have to crawl under).
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not my cup of tea
Old 03-10-2010, 06:48 AM   #4
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Changing those things is not my cup of tea. I would break something.
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:19 AM   #5
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The only thing you'll break is the skin on your knuckles.However, it is not so easy as some would have you believe. If you are physically challenged, get help. Good luck!!
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:59 AM   #6
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This SITE has remove and replace instructions with pictures.
A lot of people have said they used a utility knife to cut the old bags into strips so they could be removed easier.

Some people have said that using cable ties to hold the bag rolled up and clipping them after the bag was in place was helpful. Some also used dish soap to lubricate them while inserting.

I had a 96 motor home on a 95 P30 chassis. The vehicle owners manual described how to set the pressure in the airbags.

The owner’s manual gives the following ranges:

4,300 LB front suspensions = 10 psi to 50 psi
5,000 LB front suspensions = 40 psi to 50 psi
5,300 LB front suspensions = 50 psi to 80 psi
5,500 LB front suspensions = 60 psi to 100 psi

For the proper adjustment it says to inflate the air bags to the maximum pressure for your vehicle, load the motor home, park on a level surface and then reduce the air pressure as needed to level the motor home but don’t reduce it below the minimum.

I have seen other schemes for adjusting the pressure per ride quality, but the 1995 Chevrolet Forward Control Chassis owner’s manual said to do it as shown above.

I don't know if it's accurate or not but other posts have said the pressure in the bags affects the alignment and you should have it checked when you get the pressure set. The manual did not mention that however.
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:27 PM   #7
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My p32 2005 Sightseer rides good and handles with hardly any drifting, but, it appears to ride low in the front. According to the bubble the coach is very near level but the front fenders are covering the top inch or two of the tires. The airbags have about 60-65 pounds in them. With just this information do you think I need any adjustment to the height?
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:12 PM   #8
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The airbags have about 60-65 pounds in them. With just this information do you think I need any adjustment to the height?
Bring your vehicles to a known level surface, perhaps your own driveway. Place a level on the floor where ever it is that you level your rig and check the bubble. If you need to bring up the front, add air. If it needs to come out deflate the bags. That said there is a minimum inflation pressure but you should not come close to that. Look at the rig on a level surface from about 30 or so feet away and give it a good eyeball and see if you're level from front to back.
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:33 AM   #9
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I just put in the Supersteer coil springs. I debated about whether to just do airbags but one of my coil springs was also shot. When I priced it out I think a pair of airbags was ~$100 and the regular coil springs would have been ~$150 (I couldn't find anywhere that would sell a single spring - they come in pairs). So ultimately it would have cost me $250 + shipping to go with stock replacement.

The Supersteers were ~$380 including shipping (so ~$100 more). I'm very satisfied with them. The ride height is perfect and no more air bag worries. To do the Supersteers you'll need to weigh the front corners of the RV with it fully loaded.
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Old 03-30-2010, 04:50 PM   #10
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Bring your vehicles to a known level surface, perhaps your own driveway. Place a level on the floor where ever it is that you level your rig and check the bubble. If you need to bring up the front, add air. If it needs to come out deflate the bags. That said there is a minimum inflation pressure but you should not come close to that. Look at the rig on a level surface from about 30 or so feet away and give it a good eyeball and see if you're level from front to back.


And just remember when you let out or add air to the bags you change the geometery of the front end screwing up your front end alignment.
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:11 PM   #11
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Weigh the front axle loaded as if you are traveling. Then buy the coil springs to match the load. You will need a front end alignment after they are installed so it is not much more money to just have the shop that does the alignment to install the new coils.
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:36 PM   #12
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Weigh the front axle loaded as if you are traveling. Then buy the coil springs to match the load. You will need a front end alignment after they are installed so it is not much more money to just have the shop that does the alignment to install the new coils.



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Old 03-31-2010, 07:39 AM   #13
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And just remember when you let out or add air to the bags you change the geometery of the front end screwing up your front end alignment.
10-4 !
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:12 PM   #14
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If you choose to replace the airbags follow the inflation instructions in the "Chassis Guide". If the ride hight is properly set there should be no need to do a realignment as everything would be back within spec.
The P-30 and P-32 front suspensions are two totally different animals. P-30 is a soild axle design while the P-32 is independent.
If the minimum ride hight is correct for the axle loading the air pressure can then be adjusted for ride quality as long as it is within recomended limits.

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